Well I suffered a CCT sudden failure
09-19-2008, 09:29 PM
#62
The Hypno-Toad
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I dont mean to bitch about them, but this issue is really something that shouldn't be happening, or at least happening without major damage.
I can live with R/R's frying, 100 bucks and it take 5 mintues to replace and your back on the road, no biggie... but the CCT's cause much worse damage, and are much more dangerous if it causes the motor to lockup at speed.
I've owned (6) Hondas becuase they are uber-reliable and WELL engineered... this is the only issue I've come across that has made me worry on any of my bikes.
J.
I can live with R/R's frying, 100 bucks and it take 5 mintues to replace and your back on the road, no biggie... but the CCT's cause much worse damage, and are much more dangerous if it causes the motor to lockup at speed.
I've owned (6) Hondas becuase they are uber-reliable and WELL engineered... this is the only issue I've come across that has made me worry on any of my bikes.
J.
09-20-2008, 07:33 AM
#63
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I agree with the comment about HOW the bike is used being a possible contributing factor to CCT longevity. If the SH is bought used the new owner has no way of knowing what kind of ham-fisted stunts, drag strip passes, and track days the bike has endured before changing hands. I know I wouldn't buy a used New York city taxi-cab and I sure wouldn't buy a SH that has been beaten like a red headed stepchild either.
09-20-2008, 10:37 AM
#64
Greenmeansgo!
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Hey tweety, thanks for the answer, finally someone on this forum who doesnt respond with "do a search". I guess the next important question is where do I track down these APE ccts??
Someone must have a US link to them? No way do I want a failure; I am at about 17k so I hope to not be first on the ER line but I dont want to live dangerously.
Someone must have a US link to them? No way do I want a failure; I am at about 17k so I hope to not be first on the ER line but I dont want to live dangerously.
Download the pricelist and search for
HT1000VTR
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=190252393962
09-20-2008, 03:39 PM
#67
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J.
09-20-2008, 07:24 PM
#68
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I dont mean to bitch about them, but this issue is really something that shouldn't be happening, or at least happening without major damage.
I can live with R/R's frying, 100 bucks and it take 5 mintues to replace and your back on the road, no biggie... but the CCT's cause much worse damage, and are much more dangerous if it causes the motor to lockup at speed.
I've owned (6) Hondas becuase they are uber-reliable and WELL engineered... this is the only issue I've come across that has made me worry on any of my bikes.
J.
I can live with R/R's frying, 100 bucks and it take 5 mintues to replace and your back on the road, no biggie... but the CCT's cause much worse damage, and are much more dangerous if it causes the motor to lockup at speed.
I've owned (6) Hondas becuase they are uber-reliable and WELL engineered... this is the only issue I've come across that has made me worry on any of my bikes.
J.
It seems that a problem like this should be recognized by the manufacturer if there are enough failures. So, I don't know how to start a poll, but one might be started to see how many Forum members have experienced CCT failure.
09-23-2008, 12:55 PM
#72
Greenmeansgo!
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This is kind of related. I'm going to have my bike into a mechanic in the next week or so to fix that knocking noise I've been having. Worth it to have them install the APE CCTs while they're in there? ~13K, no rattling.
09-23-2008, 01:12 PM
#73
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Since they will already be doing the expensive time consuming work of tearing it all apart, it's probably worth it on labour alone... And at ~13k you are in no way in danger (fingers crossed) but you need to sooner or later swap to new stockers or APE's...
09-23-2008, 02:53 PM
#74
Greenmeansgo!
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Thanks, that's what I figured but always good to have confirmation. Anyone have a ballpark time estimate for getting the valve covers off etc, for an experienced mechanic? It'd likely be two weeks for me, what with nerves, late mornings, and lack of prep, so I really have no idea.
Kendrick, have you decided what you're going to do? Fix it or part it out? Personally, I'm a huge fan of the torque and sound, and mine's been modified so it's pretty damn comfortable, plus I love the streetfightered look. Conclusion: I want this bike fixed. What say you?
Kendrick, have you decided what you're going to do? Fix it or part it out? Personally, I'm a huge fan of the torque and sound, and mine's been modified so it's pretty damn comfortable, plus I love the streetfightered look. Conclusion: I want this bike fixed. What say you?
09-23-2008, 04:15 PM
#75
The Hypno-Toad
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I'm going to pull the front head off and see what I find. I'm assuming it's the front cylinder since it usually is. Best case scenario I let someone else rebuild my head, I'll change the CCT and hopefully reset the timing. Even if I decided to sell it it's worth nothing right now. I may fix it and keep it, fix it and sell it for something more reliable, or take it apart and find metal shavings everywhere. I don't know right now. I had to spend this last weekend getting my Jeep ready for winter. Due to my location this took priority. So maybe this weekend I'll know more.
09-23-2008, 04:31 PM
#76
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I'll be pulling my front valve cover this weekend if the new gasket shows up. It's been leaking a bit. I want to check the chain tension while I'm in there.
Manual CCTs were installed by the previous owner, but I'm curious to see if they need adjusting. Bike has 23K on it.
(Also I did just recently have the common rectifier problem, and swapped it with a Yamaha unit.)
Manual CCTs were installed by the previous owner, but I'm curious to see if they need adjusting. Bike has 23K on it.
(Also I did just recently have the common rectifier problem, and swapped it with a Yamaha unit.)
09-24-2008, 12:33 PM
#79
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What CCT'S do I have?
How do I tell if my CCT's have been replaced with manual ones? Bought 2000 S/H with 27k without much knowledge of previous history of bike. Thanks.
Has honda made any upgrades over the years to the S/H CCT's?
Has honda made any upgrades over the years to the S/H CCT's?
09-24-2008, 12:41 PM
#80
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Look on the rear side of the rear cylinder head, there should be a piece on the engine with a bolt sticking out of it. Usually with an anodized piece that doesn't really match the rest of the bike.
There should be one on the back of the front cylinder also, sort of hidden behind there.
I have no idea when mine were installed, the owner before this guy did the work, and he worked as a Honda mechanic at the bike dealership. With manual CCTs, the tension can be crudely checked and adjusted "by ear" without taking anything apart.
There should be one on the back of the front cylinder also, sort of hidden behind there.
I have no idea when mine were installed, the owner before this guy did the work, and he worked as a Honda mechanic at the bike dealership. With manual CCTs, the tension can be crudely checked and adjusted "by ear" without taking anything apart.
09-24-2008, 05:23 PM
#82
Out of my mind, back in 5
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It's safer than stock... The APE's are per the design unable to fail in the manner the stockers can...
The only reason I used stock was lazyness... couldn't be bothered to find APE's and I don't want the bother to set & re-set... I'll probably f
go APE's once these needs changing though...
09-24-2008, 05:26 PM
#83
The Hypno-Toad
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09-24-2008, 05:53 PM
#85
I could ride in
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09-24-2008, 07:21 PM
#86
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Well, I guess ideally, you'd want to actually measure the chain deflection. By "crudely" I did mean "good enough". But I'm no expert on this topic.
09-24-2008, 08:23 PM
#87
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Adjusting until the noise stops seems pretty crude. Has anyone checked with an experienced Honda Tech about this problem? I will check with my local dealer.
With most car engines with a timing belt, you loosen the tensioner, rotate the crank 2 revs, then tighten the tensioner. The procedure varies with different manufacturers and engines.
With most car engines with a timing belt, you loosen the tensioner, rotate the crank 2 revs, then tighten the tensioner. The procedure varies with different manufacturers and engines.
09-24-2008, 09:51 PM
#89
hardened stihl
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This isn't really an engineering error. Its hard to predict product reliabillity 20k down the road.
I lost a 98 toyota tacoma to a failed frame when it rusted from the inside out. THAT is engineering/manufacturing negligence. (I sold mine for pennies before this whole recall thing)
btw, CE's are the ones with all the common sense. ME's lose it somewhere between junior and senior year.
I lost a 98 toyota tacoma to a failed frame when it rusted from the inside out. THAT is engineering/manufacturing negligence. (I sold mine for pennies before this whole recall thing)
btw, CE's are the ones with all the common sense. ME's lose it somewhere between junior and senior year.
09-25-2008, 03:36 AM
#90
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Adjusting until the noise stops seems pretty crude. Has anyone checked with an experienced Honda Tech about this problem? I will check with my local dealer.
With most car engines with a timing belt, you loosen the tensioner, rotate the crank 2 revs, then tighten the tensioner. The procedure varies with different manufacturers and engines.
With most car engines with a timing belt, you loosen the tensioner, rotate the crank 2 revs, then tighten the tensioner. The procedure varies with different manufacturers and engines.
The APE's are an aftermarket performance/race component... Honda wasn't part of that development...
