Weird starting problem
#31
The neutral light relies on the same path to ground i.e. through the neutral switch, as does the starter solenoid. Both pass through the diode and then share a common path to the neutral switch. So the issue could be in the diode, or the wire to the neutral switch, or the switch itself.
The switch can be tested for continuity to ground, should be closed in neutral, and open at any other gear. So a voltmeter connected from the battery positive to the terminal of the neutral switch should show 12v or thereabouts in neutral, and 0v in gear.
If needed Partzilla shows the neutral switch at $11, p/no 35600-KE8-003
The switch can be tested for continuity to ground, should be closed in neutral, and open at any other gear. So a voltmeter connected from the battery positive to the terminal of the neutral switch should show 12v or thereabouts in neutral, and 0v in gear.
If needed Partzilla shows the neutral switch at $11, p/no 35600-KE8-003
Last edited by Cadbury64; 09-18-2016 at 10:21 PM.
#32
No, since the clutch switch at the lever has already been bridged and I do try it in neutral with the stand up, but if the stand switch is wonky, and so is the neutral switch, that would be the perfect storm right?
How hard is the neutral switch to change?
How hard is the neutral switch to change?
#34
Yes, if the neutral switch is NFG and the stand switch is NFG then the perfect storm is gonna rain on Joe's parade.
Maybe your stand switch has been bad for a while. You wouldn't notice if you normally start in neutral.
Maybe your stand switch has been bad for a while. You wouldn't notice if you normally start in neutral.
Last edited by VTR1000F; 09-19-2016 at 05:14 AM.
#35
So for sure neutral switch is my first culprit. If only due to the neutral light flickering and going out it heavy hot traffic.
Looked at it and that's easy enuff. My bet it that the neutral switch is the keystone to this. (or maybe the wire but that's easy to change too.)
Looked at it and that's easy enuff. My bet it that the neutral switch is the keystone to this. (or maybe the wire but that's easy to change too.)
#37
Yeah wick, already bought one on partzilla, as well as the sidestand switch. I think that should eliminate most of the possible hardware suspects.
Not my normal character but it poured today and I didn't ride. I promised myself to do everything to get my multiple broken bones to finish healing. (although I am riding in the dry).
Plus I am fixing my Givi maxia topcase so will post pics of that build.
Getting closer each move. Allegedly.
Not my normal character but it poured today and I didn't ride. I promised myself to do everything to get my multiple broken bones to finish healing. (although I am riding in the dry).
Plus I am fixing my Givi maxia topcase so will post pics of that build.
Getting closer each move. Allegedly.
#38
Ok PROBLEM SEEMS GONE.
Today I put in a new neutral switch and sidestand switch.
This totally solved my flickering neutral light. The sidestand switch I believe was heat stroked and was maybe failing when very hot so figured it was a reasonable thing to swap.
Before that I changed the starter, starter swich, and starter solenoid/relay.
I actually ordered the diode before today.
Bike will now start when piping hot which was a real safety issue considering the environment I ride.
Thanks to anyone who helped.
Today I put in a new neutral switch and sidestand switch.
This totally solved my flickering neutral light. The sidestand switch I believe was heat stroked and was maybe failing when very hot so figured it was a reasonable thing to swap.
Before that I changed the starter, starter swich, and starter solenoid/relay.
I actually ordered the diode before today.
Bike will now start when piping hot which was a real safety issue considering the environment I ride.
Thanks to anyone who helped.
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