VTR1000F Transmission Issues
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3
VTR1000F Transmission Issues
I just got a super cheap 99' VTR1000F with 70k miles. It has issues with 2nd Gear. I was thinking of getting a complete transmission from a bike with far less miles under its belt, but was curious about compatibility from other years.
I could probably get away with just replacing the set that handles the 2nd gear. What do you guys think?
I could probably get away with just replacing the set that handles the 2nd gear. What do you guys think?
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,871
From: Phoenix, AZ
Try changing the oil first... this bike's second gear is pretty clunky in general (but fairly robust- there are others on here with more miles on a stock tranny), and new oil may be all it needs. All year's motors are compatible with each other if that doesn't work though...
Member
Squid
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 54
probably have a bent and worn shift fork...the dogs on the gear and slider are probably worn too. as time goes on the rpm at which it pops out of gear will be lower and lower...If you wanted to replace just the worn parts you would have to replace the fork, slider and the gear...probably be cheaper to just get a used tranny though.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,864
From: Fort Wayne, IN
That's a very common diagnosis for the problem desribed.
My experiences are that almost all VTR's in salvage yards are there because of a crash, not a mechanical failure. It's a Honda don't forget.
Member
Squid
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 32
Oh and we don't have so many crashed examples cause we have a considerable amount of cornering experience this side of the globe lol
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3
So, I was just quoted $1000USD minimum to rebuild the tranny. That is splitting the case, replacing the worn part (could be more than 1000 if there are more parts worn) and a full engine gasket kit... Does this sound right? I have a few mechanic friends, but they dont really work on bikes... would it be worth a try to break her open myself (ourselves).
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,864
From: Fort Wayne, IN
I would say you are looking at about $200-300 in parts (maybe less if you are lucky). It sounds like your shop is assuming a full engine teardown and reassembly. That's not necessary to split the cases, and you only need a couple of gaskets that can be purchased separately. The heads do not need to be pulled, so it's actually pretty easy to do once the engine is out of the bike.
That said, their quote of $1000 isn't crazy outrageous. Most shops are around $90/hr and they are probably expecting an entire day of work. Pulling the engine from the frame is much of the labor. You might be able to get off cheaper but not by much. The only way to make a big dent would be to do the job yourself.
Good luck!
That said, their quote of $1000 isn't crazy outrageous. Most shops are around $90/hr and they are probably expecting an entire day of work. Pulling the engine from the frame is much of the labor. You might be able to get off cheaper but not by much. The only way to make a big dent would be to do the job yourself.
Good luck!
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,689
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA, USA
There are not a lot of special tools required to do the job. If you have a mechanic friend that you trust and a reasonably clean indoor workspace, it is not too difficult.
You will need:
Special frame tools to get the engine back in the frame and mounted with the proper prestress on the frame, or take it to the dealer to have the proper torque settings applied.
A special puller to remove the flywheel. You can buy the tools with the money you save by not taking it to the dealer.
A factory service manual.
A couple of special tricks for removing the flywheel and primary drive gear bolts (shop towel in the gear teeth, primary drive gear bolt is reverse-threaded) and clutch basket (leave the clutch plates in place, unstake the nut and remove it with an impact wrench).
Hondabond, NOT silicone RTV on the dry mating surfaces, as indicated in the manual.
Side cover gaskets and shaft seals.
Good, used transmission.
You will need:
Special frame tools to get the engine back in the frame and mounted with the proper prestress on the frame, or take it to the dealer to have the proper torque settings applied.
A special puller to remove the flywheel. You can buy the tools with the money you save by not taking it to the dealer.
A factory service manual.
A couple of special tricks for removing the flywheel and primary drive gear bolts (shop towel in the gear teeth, primary drive gear bolt is reverse-threaded) and clutch basket (leave the clutch plates in place, unstake the nut and remove it with an impact wrench).
Hondabond, NOT silicone RTV on the dry mating surfaces, as indicated in the manual.
Side cover gaskets and shaft seals.
Good, used transmission.
Last edited by RCVTR; Oct 16, 2012 at 08:45 AM.
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