Turning 25,000 miles, should I adjust valves
Turning 25,000 miles, should I adjust valves
Getting close to 25k mi. 2003. When should valves be adjusted? I had a friend inst ape manual cct's at 5,000 mi., should I reset the tension? If so hand tight and back off 1/4 turn w/ eng at temp? Does cyl have to be at tdc to set tension or is that just for removal? Chain is stretched past limits, what is stock tooth count front&rear and should I repl. both sprockets, I do not see any appreciable wear on the teeth. Any other advise on what should be done at this time would be greatly appreciated. Should I get a 530 or 520 chain, I don't race and maybe go to the track from time to time.
Last edited by niteridder64; Mar 22, 2017 at 11:00 PM. Reason: add question
I'd leave the mcct's alone and it wouldn't hurt to have valves checked.
To check your chain, on rear sprocket @ the 3 o'clock position (directly opposite of the front sprocket), try to pull the chain away from the sprocket. If its clapped out, you will be able to lift it a bit. Lotta times you can get 2 chains on 1 set of sprockets. They (the sprockets) will show visible wear when it's time to change. Stay 530, it will last longer.
16/41 is stock. Opinions will vary, I settled on 16/43 and like it. -1 up front is like +3 on the rear. I tried a 15f and it was a bit too much, so +2r was perfect.
One thing I would absolutely do is replace the steering head bearings with tapered rollers. Huge difference IMO. And flush the coolant.
To check your chain, on rear sprocket @ the 3 o'clock position (directly opposite of the front sprocket), try to pull the chain away from the sprocket. If its clapped out, you will be able to lift it a bit. Lotta times you can get 2 chains on 1 set of sprockets. They (the sprockets) will show visible wear when it's time to change. Stay 530, it will last longer.
16/41 is stock. Opinions will vary, I settled on 16/43 and like it. -1 up front is like +3 on the rear. I tried a 15f and it was a bit too much, so +2r was perfect.
One thing I would absolutely do is replace the steering head bearings with tapered rollers. Huge difference IMO. And flush the coolant.
I did a valve lash check/replacement the other summer. I would recommend making specific shim purchases from Honda - this means having to wait for an order to come in over a few days to a week+. It offers more accurate shims than what comes in the Hot Cams kits.
I'd leave the mcct's alone and it wouldn't hurt to have valves checked.
To check your chain, on rear sprocket @ the 3 o'clock position (directly opposite of the front sprocket), try to pull the chain away from the sprocket. If its clapped out, you will be able to lift it a bit. Lotta times you can get 2 chains on 1 set of sprockets. They (the sprockets) will show visible wear when it's time to change. Stay 530, it will last longer.
16/41 is stock. Opinions will vary, I settled on 16/43 and like it. -1 up front is like +3 on the rear. I tried a 15f and it was a bit too much, so +2r was perfect.
One thing I would absolutely do is replace the steering head bearings with tapered rollers. Huge difference IMO. And flush the coolant.
To check your chain, on rear sprocket @ the 3 o'clock position (directly opposite of the front sprocket), try to pull the chain away from the sprocket. If its clapped out, you will be able to lift it a bit. Lotta times you can get 2 chains on 1 set of sprockets. They (the sprockets) will show visible wear when it's time to change. Stay 530, it will last longer.
16/41 is stock. Opinions will vary, I settled on 16/43 and like it. -1 up front is like +3 on the rear. I tried a 15f and it was a bit too much, so +2r was perfect.
One thing I would absolutely do is replace the steering head bearings with tapered rollers. Huge difference IMO. And flush the coolant.
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