E.Marquez

Exactly.. I dont know why it's happening either.. just that I doubt it is some inherent problem with the tapered bearings or commonly seen when installed.

With aluminum frame I've seen the head tube ovaled or otherwise damaged by a steel bearing race being hammered in crooked .

I've found steel frame head tubes cracked

Races brinelled post install and few hours riding because the bearings were not pre loaded correctly.

and lots of races not installed completely flush to the seat or evenly

And yes a socket and hammer can be used, I did for many years, then later aluminum or brass drivers cut on my lathe, than actual install tools designed for the job. All work well with care. So Im not saying you need a big buck install tool... just that whatever tool you have used correctly.

If they are coming loose time and time again, I would look at the steering head and see if the ID is damaged. If so many times Loctite stud and bearing mount can be used during the race install to lock it in place.

If not that, consider stripping down the front end, so there is nothing but the triple clamps.. no cables to drag, nothing.. and set preload till you feel light drag, then back off just a bit. With tapered bearings in a non rotation install (like say a steering head vice wheel bearing) you do not need to leave any room for bearing material expansion due to heat.. you want them snugged up, no clearance at all, and just snug enough to remove that slop.

thedeatons

Ok, good to know... Thank you guys for the consistent help.

James