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New Carb starter valve retainer

Old 02-04-2013, 09:33 AM
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New Carb starter valve retainer

As I have done more then once in the past and others have as well. I broke one of the plastic choke valve retainer nuts when I was working on carbs a few weeks back. I had to leave town for a month and the bike has just been sitting.....parts came in 4 weeks ago, and I got home last night...
So the HoneyDo list had to wait.. In to the shop I go.



Pretty simple project... and with the info already on hand in this thread https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...b-25462/page2/
from Isosuo.. it was a 5 min MOD to the Polaris part.

Chuck up the new starter valve nut and drill the recess to depth



Cut the retention slot for the rubber boot.




Remove the part and blow off the chips




Install back where it belongs



Longer to post then it was to finish the part.

Just need to get the gas tank back from the painters and we can see what my new jetting will do.

This is a easy to do MOD that rids the SH of a commonly broken plastic part.... If you take your carbs out for any reason.....broken or not, replace the starter valve retainer nut with a modified Polaris part 3130199 , Holder Guide $8.77 each

Last edited by E.Marquez; 05-21-2018 at 09:06 AM. Reason: Photobucket SUCKS and blocked 3rd party hosting
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:35 AM
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Since I don't have a lathe I'd be willing to buy two of them from you if you care to make some more.
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:03 PM
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Thanks Marquez, great tip. Something to work on soon.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by HRCA#1 View Post
Since I don't have a lathe I'd be willing to buy two of them from you if you care to make some more.
Sent PM
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by HRCA#1 View Post
Since I don't have a lathe I'd be willing to buy two of them from you if you care to make some more.
Ditto for me too! I was going to buy Jack Flash's choke cable assembly just for the plastic bosses (sorry JF) but why go back with the same crap...though with 8ok miles I could probably use some fresher choke valves & needles?

I saw U PM'd HRCA#1?

Thx
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:07 PM
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I did PM, because what i have to ask for them is embarrassingly expensive ..

Yes, I can make more of these modded Polaris parts...It's just a bit pricey...

25.00 for two Polaris Holders at my cost, shipped to me from the OEM.

$15.00 for my time, tooling wear.

And
$5.80 USPS priority Shipping to most places in the US.
That's $45.80 for two of these MOD'ed Polaris Holders shipped to your door.

If I had a Polaris dealer, or ordered from a shop regular that sold Polaris parts, the buy in would be less...But Im in Texas.. and it means shipping these things twice.


Happy to do a set for others if folks are interested... Just cant do um at a loss.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:00 AM
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Hi,

sorry to hi-jack a thread but was just going through the forum when I see this. I made some of these in the past and can certainly make some more again if it helps anyone out.

Feel free to look at this thread on a forum I belong too and why I made them.

www.vtr1000.org • View topic - Starting engine

I was selling them over here in the UK to a few people where they needed replacing and just sent some to Canada so can't see why I can't send some more to somewhere different.

Costing wise I am sure they will come in around $18 posted to most places in the US. If the cost of posting comes in wildly different than where I sent other stuff then I'll advise and confirm this is okay before I send them.

Any questions then please feel free to ask.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by gl_s_r View Post
Hi,

sorry to hi-jack a thread but was just going through the forum when I see this. I made some of these in the past and can certainly make some more again if it helps anyone out.

Feel free to look at this thread on a forum I belong too and why I made them.

www.vtr1000.org • View topic - Starting engine

I was selling them over here in the UK to a few people where they needed replacing and just sent some to Canada so can't see why I can't send some more to somewhere different.

Costing wise I am sure they will come in around $18 posted to most places in the US. If the cost of posting comes in wildly different than where I sent other stuff then I'll advise and confirm this is okay before I send them.

Any questions then please feel free to ask.
Very nice..

By all means, get a replacement from gl_s_r.. Heck I might have if I had known it was an option I spent $17.54 before postage and still had to modify them.

If only I had a CNC mill center but making them from bar stock on a small manual mil and lathe is very time consuming.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:36 AM
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I can recommend gl_s_r
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:26 AM
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+1 Wicky
gl_s_r is a very fine man.
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by VTArrrgh! View Post
I installed mine tonight - 13 bucks for the pair, direct from the local Polaris stealer. Drilled 'em out with a drill bit...
where did you find them for $6.50 a piece shipped???? That is a great deal..
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:57 PM
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but I was doing some searching when I came across this thread and figured I'd add some info. As far as I know, pretty much all Mikunis use this same thread for the choke plungers. And they come on MANY snowmobiles. I've pulled carb parts off my friends junk 88 Polaris Indy for my 97 Arctic Cat. I have a set of arctic cat choke cables sitting here I might pull the brass bushing off of and give this a shot. They are a little different than the Polaris ones (longer), but if I am machining them anyway, it's no big deal to cut them. If it works, it's super cheap to get choke parts from an Arctic Cat ZR or Polaris Indy. I think my set of choke cables were like $10-15 shipped. Find some old beat up cables, the brass fitting will be fine, and get them for next to nothing.
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:33 AM
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Ok. Thanks to everyone for the input. I ordered the Polaris parts and will give that a go. I know I can drill out the diameter but don't have the lathe to do the retaining slot. Maybe do the dremel thing. Would a small clamp hold it on without the retaining ring?
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by YellowBird View Post
Ok. Thanks to everyone for the input. I ordered the Polaris parts and will give that a go. I know I can drill out the diameter but don't have the lathe to do the retaining slot. Maybe do the dremel thing. Would a small clamp hold it on without the retaining ring?
You can hand file or use a hack saw blade to make the retaining slot.. just go SLOW. It will not be pretty, but it'll work. Use a hose clamp as a guide, file or cut against the edge
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:52 AM
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Or you can order the custom part from the UK on vtr1000.org for about $15 shipped. That's what i did, waiting to receive them now

James
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Old 01-01-2015, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by thedeatons View Post
Or you can order the custom part from the UK on vtr1000.org for about $15 shipped. That's what i did, waiting to receive them now

James
Can you please elaborate on how you ordered the parts. I would like to get a set.

I sent gl_S_r a PM on this board but I don't have enough posts on the UK site to send a PMs yet.
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Old 01-01-2015, 07:52 PM
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I think Mark had his email address posted on another forum: Mark.Hills a t mclaren d o t c o m

Great guy, quick shipping. Parts look excellent.

James
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:59 AM
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Mr. Marquez.
What size diameter drill bit did you use and how deep do I need to drill out the new retainer? I have a pair of the Polaris fittings. Is there any other modification that the new retainers need other than the drilling and the cutting of the retention ring that needs to be done?
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Old 01-11-2015, 06:21 PM
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The OEM part has an ID on the cable side of 6.5mm so that is what size drill I used.
About $1.80 for that size drill
Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies

Drill the 6.5mm ID on the cable side to 9mm deep.
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Old 01-13-2015, 01:53 PM
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So it looks like I'm just taking out the threads and leaving enough ridge inside to hold the cable from slipping all the way thru. Sounds right? Do I need to use any washers to hold it off a bit from the carb? It looks like it needs that so the slide fits properly.
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by YellowBird View Post
So it looks like I'm just taking out the threads and leaving enough ridge inside to hold the cable from slipping all the way thru.
Yes essentially, but you also need to deepen the counter bore on the carb side of the retainer. the overall length is close enough.. you just need to bore out the new part ON BOTH ENDS, to closely match the OEM part.
Originally Posted by YellowBird View Post
Do I need to use any washers to hold it off a bit from the carb? It looks like it needs that so the slide fits properly.
Not sure what your asking...
Hold what off the carb.....?
The new starter valve retainer screws into the carb all the way just like the OEM one.
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Old 01-13-2015, 06:08 PM
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I just got through modifying a couple of these Polaris fittings. I don't have a lathe but I do have a slow battery powered drill and that worked just fine. I bored the threaded side out to fit the cable end. I relived the carb side enough to allow for the needle valve to pull fully back (It just needs to be a bit deeper to accommodate the spring. I didn't even cut the grove for the cable cover because the fit was good and it seemed unnecessary.

Warning: when making these cuts with a drill be VERY careful. A sharp bit will dig into the brass and cut faster than you thought possible.
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Old 01-24-2015, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Big_Jim59 View Post
I just got through modifying a couple of these Polaris fittings. I don't have a lathe but I do have a slow battery powered drill and that worked just fine. I bored the threaded side out to fit the cable end. I relived the carb side enough to allow for the needle valve to pull fully back (It just needs to be a bit deeper to accommodate the spring. I didn't even cut the grove for the cable cover because the fit was good and it seemed unnecessary.

Warning: when making these cuts with a drill be VERY careful. A sharp bit will dig into the brass and cut faster than you thought possible.
I did this....now the choke doesn't want to pull all the way out.
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Old 01-25-2015, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by calirodan View Post
I did this....now the choke doesn't want to pull all the way out.
No offence intended, but that just means you did it wrong. as the Polaris parts can be MOD'ed to be a direct replacement.
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:27 AM
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Since this thread is active again, a question. Does the counter bore on the carb side need to be the same depth as the stock fitting? (I'm guessing yes) This would leave less than a mm (.8mm) of shoulder internally. Yes/no? Because I don't have a lathe that small of a margin will be hard to control.
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by xeris View Post
Since this thread is active again, a question. Does the counter bore on the carb side need to be the same depth as the stock fitting? (I'm guessing yes) This would leave less than a mm (.8mm) of shoulder internally. Yes/no? Because I don't have a lathe that small of a margin will be hard to control.
I went 11.5mm deep on the carb side using a 7mm drill and a drill stop.
And 8.5mm deep on the cable side using a 6.5mm drill and drill stop.

That left me a 1.5mm shoulder inside to stop the cable movement.

With a drill stop and careful measurements you should be fine, or at least i was.
The first set i made was with drill press and manual measurement / collar type drill stop. The second set was on the lathe and a DRO for drill depth.
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Old 01-25-2015, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by calirodan View Post
I did this....now the choke doesn't want to pull all the way out.
I used the old part as a pattern to gauge the bore depth and size. I marked my drill bits at the proper depth and made sure i was very careful.
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez View Post
No offence intended, but that just means you did it wrong. as the Polaris parts can be MOD'ed to be a direct replacement.
No offense taken; I just wanted to reinforce to everybody that you can't go all '*****-nilly' with trying to make the brass replacement. Depths, tools, and especially putting care and time into it make a huge difference!
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Old 01-26-2015, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez View Post
I went 11.5mm deep on the carb side using a 7mm drill and a drill stop.
And 8.5mm deep on the cable side using a 6.5mm drill and drill stop.

That left me a 1.5mm shoulder inside to stop the cable movement.

With a drill stop and careful measurements you should be fine, or at least i was.
The first set i made was with drill press and manual measurement / collar type drill stop. The second set was on the lathe and a DRO for drill depth.
Thanks for the info.
Having a senior moment. I picked up a drill press a few months ago and forgot that I have it. I even have used it a few times.
With the right bits and stops I should be all set.
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:33 AM
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Are you sure you havn't already made a set of these? I'm pretty sure I remember you posting that you had made some of these and installed them already.
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