sprocket question??
07-17-2012, 10:33 PM
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sprocket question??
okay some of you guys said because I got a race chain installed and didn't get new sprockets, they are still stock ones, that is pretty bad... i've been trying to find sprocket information on forum... i've been sitting here for awhile now and I still dont know what the differences are?? can anyone help me out please?? Im trying to order some on ebay.. I hear vortex are pretty good? is that true?? and what is the difference between numbers?? I am new to riding, and ride street.. but I would eventually in the near future like to learn to wheelie(always looked so fun to me) so what would be my best fit?? any help would be much appreciate so I can order them and get my bike up and running and everything the way I want before I start work next week(it is my only transportation, besides taking my girlfriends car), thanks for any info.. or any clarity as I am lost 
07-17-2012, 11:16 PM
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I replied to your PM but will ad some info here.
For your question of what the numbers mean this pic should help
The stock chain size on a VTR is 530
Which by looking at the pic means there is 5\8" between the link pins and it is 3\8" between the inside of the side plates.
So people run a 520 chain to save weight but they do wear out quicker and on the street you will not see much advantage.
The one key thing is you must match chain size and sprocket size, which means you must use 530 sprockets with a 530 chain. the same goes for the 520 parts.
I would also recommend running steel sprockets. You will see adds for aluminum rear sprockets. Once again this is more for racing applications and they wear out too quickly for street use.
I would also recommend running the stock gear ratio of 16\41 at first, until you get used to the bike and riding. Then there are a few options you can try but right now I would stay with the stock set up.
For your question of what the numbers mean this pic should help
The stock chain size on a VTR is 530
Which by looking at the pic means there is 5\8" between the link pins and it is 3\8" between the inside of the side plates.
So people run a 520 chain to save weight but they do wear out quicker and on the street you will not see much advantage.
The one key thing is you must match chain size and sprocket size, which means you must use 530 sprockets with a 530 chain. the same goes for the 520 parts.
I would also recommend running steel sprockets. You will see adds for aluminum rear sprockets. Once again this is more for racing applications and they wear out too quickly for street use.
I would also recommend running the stock gear ratio of 16\41 at first, until you get used to the bike and riding. Then there are a few options you can try but right now I would stay with the stock set up.
07-17-2012, 11:38 PM
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I replied to your PM but will ad some info here.
For your question of what the numbers mean this pic should help
Attachment 14322
The stock chain size on a VTR is 530
Which by looking at the pic means there is 5\8" between the link pins and it is 3\8" between the inside of the side plates.
So people run a 520 chain to save weight but they do wear out quicker and on the street you will not see much advantage.
The one key thing is you must match chain size and sprocket size, which means you must use 530 sprockets with a 530 chain. the same goes for the 520 parts.
I would also recommend running steel sprockets. You will see adds for aluminum rear sprockets. Once again this is more for racing applications and they wear out too quickly for street use.
I would also recommend running the stock gear ratio of 16\41 at first, until you get used to the bike and riding. Then there are a few options you can try but right now I would stay with the stock set up.
For your question of what the numbers mean this pic should help
Attachment 14322
The stock chain size on a VTR is 530
Which by looking at the pic means there is 5\8" between the link pins and it is 3\8" between the inside of the side plates.
So people run a 520 chain to save weight but they do wear out quicker and on the street you will not see much advantage.
The one key thing is you must match chain size and sprocket size, which means you must use 530 sprockets with a 530 chain. the same goes for the 520 parts.
I would also recommend running steel sprockets. You will see adds for aluminum rear sprockets. Once again this is more for racing applications and they wear out too quickly for street use.
I would also recommend running the stock gear ratio of 16\41 at first, until you get used to the bike and riding. Then there are a few options you can try but right now I would stay with the stock set up.
16=front sprocket 41=rear sprocket steel sprockets is the only way to go on these beasts,and take your time and learn to ride the bike,dont worry about wheelies,just might end up costing you more money.
07-17-2012, 11:39 PM
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07-17-2012, 11:44 PM
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Yeah that sprocket is toast..... You do need to replace it.
The header will not cause you problems right now but will need to be addressed at some point. Either replaced or possibly the fill with water and freeze it might work.
Yes those exhausts have been modified but the carb set up thread will give you a set up that will work with them.
The header will not cause you problems right now but will need to be addressed at some point. Either replaced or possibly the fill with water and freeze it might work.
Yes those exhausts have been modified but the carb set up thread will give you a set up that will work with them.
07-17-2012, 11:44 PM
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thanks saige!! okay how do you think my sprocket looks on rear?? it doesn't have alot of play. just concerned its still the stock sprocket.. and i got a nice expensive chain?? and noo that will be down the line... i just eventually would like to learn how to
.. after this week getting my ss clutch and brake lines / racetech fork springs / gold valve assembly(for the forks forget what they are called) and going to do the pair, carb write up by hawk, and tps write up also... just wanted to know if I should get sprockets while im at it... and i'll be good to go as far as i'm concerned ... except the exhaust worries me a little, the dent and the fact someone gutted out.. how do you guys think it looks? looks like **** to me lol!!! thanks for the replies guys, appreciated much.
07-17-2012, 11:47 PM
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Yeah that sprocket is toast..... You do need to replace it.
The header will not cause you problems right now but will need to be addressed at some point. Either replaced or possibly the fill with water and freeze it might work.
Yes those exhausts have been modified but the carb set up thread will give you a set up that will work with them.
The header will not cause you problems right now but will need to be addressed at some point. Either replaced or possibly the fill with water and freeze it might work.
Yes those exhausts have been modified but the carb set up thread will give you a set up that will work with them.
07-17-2012, 11:50 PM
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and hawk.. could that be causing the "pull forward and backward effect" im talking about at low speeds? its a pretty hard pull and back on it.. and higher speeds i dont notice it so much.. guessing cuz im going faster and its spinning faster... o also I ordered the front ape cct like you recommended!! figured why wait till it goes out, have the 2 manuel ape's done, the new f012aa r/r installed.. and do the rest of this junk... to have a good running bike and be as safe as I can at same time!!
07-18-2012, 03:38 AM
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Also check your cush drive rubbers and replace if necessary (Part no. 1)
Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1999>VTR1000F>REAR WHEEL
Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1999>VTR1000F>REAR WHEEL
07-18-2012, 10:47 AM
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vortex is good,but not for the hawk,the V-twins eat them up like candy.go with jt sprockets that are steel.you can find good deals on those if you look around.
your old sprockets look ok,but at the same time,they are not,they took shape of the old chain,which is not good for the new one.it will cause the new chain to deform and break down faster.
always buy in complete sets,it wears evenly together which will give it a long life,just keep chain lubed.
which gold valves are you getting for the hawk,what model numbers.
your old sprockets look ok,but at the same time,they are not,they took shape of the old chain,which is not good for the new one.it will cause the new chain to deform and break down faster.
always buy in complete sets,it wears evenly together which will give it a long life,just keep chain lubed.
which gold valves are you getting for the hawk,what model numbers.
07-19-2012, 06:30 PM
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vortex is good,but not for the hawk,the V-twins eat them up like candy.go with jt sprockets that are steel.you can find good deals on those if you look around.
your old sprockets look ok,but at the same time,they are not,they took shape of the old chain,which is not good for the new one.it will cause the new chain to deform and break down faster.
always buy in complete sets,it wears evenly together which will give it a long life,just keep chain lubed.
which gold valves are you getting for the hawk,what model numbers.
your old sprockets look ok,but at the same time,they are not,they took shape of the old chain,which is not good for the new one.it will cause the new chain to deform and break down faster.
always buy in complete sets,it wears evenly together which will give it a long life,just keep chain lubed.
which gold valves are you getting for the hawk,what model numbers.
.. he's from racer's edge performance.. thanks again guys!! u've helped me tons!
07-19-2012, 06:32 PM
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Also check your cush drive rubbers and replace if necessary (Part no. 1)
Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1999>VTR1000F>REAR WHEEL
Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1999>VTR1000F>REAR WHEEL
07-19-2012, 07:12 PM
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the more important valve to get is the compression valve.you can get the rebound,but dont get the upgraded one from racetech,i got that one and need to iron out some kinks in it,no one has used that paticular valve,so im working thru the data of it and such.
the best person to contact would be jamiedaughtery,here is the link to his profile.SuperHawk Forum - View Profile: JamieDaugherty
he will sell you new valves for your forks at a better price than racetech.
do you plan on doing any of the work yourself,or just gonna give it to a shop to do.
if i understand,you already ordered the valve,did you get rebound or compression.if you have the model number,just post it up.
the best person to contact would be jamiedaughtery,here is the link to his profile.SuperHawk Forum - View Profile: JamieDaugherty
he will sell you new valves for your forks at a better price than racetech.
do you plan on doing any of the work yourself,or just gonna give it to a shop to do.
if i understand,you already ordered the valve,did you get rebound or compression.if you have the model number,just post it up.
07-19-2012, 07:44 PM
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the more important valve to get is the compression valve.you can get the rebound,but dont get the upgraded one from racetech,i got that one and need to iron out some kinks in it,no one has used that paticular valve,so im working thru the data of it and such.
the best person to contact would be jamiedaughtery,here is the link to his profile.SuperHawk Forum - View Profile: JamieDaugherty
he will sell you new valves for your forks at a better price than racetech.
do you plan on doing any of the work yourself,or just gonna give it to a shop to do.
if i understand,you already ordered the valve,did you get rebound or compression.if you have the model number,just post it up.
the best person to contact would be jamiedaughtery,here is the link to his profile.SuperHawk Forum - View Profile: JamieDaugherty
he will sell you new valves for your forks at a better price than racetech.
do you plan on doing any of the work yourself,or just gonna give it to a shop to do.
if i understand,you already ordered the valve,did you get rebound or compression.if you have the model number,just post it up.
07-19-2012, 08:19 PM
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hmmmmmm,not trying to insult or saying anything bad,but it takes longer to change fork fluid than it does to change the springs,but of course hes doing the valves too,i just hope he knows how to work on these particular forks
there is nothing to add to the forks,except to change out the valves and drill a hole to the gold valve if necessary,if he knows to do that or to look for info on this specific bike.
very important to know which valve.if its the rebound only,not worth much to put in by itself.its the compression thats more important at the moment.the rebound is good enough for now.
the racetech compression gold valve is gonna be either FMGV S2040G which is the G2-R,the newer one,and than the standard compression valve is FMGV S2040
rebound valves are FRGV S02 which is the standard.the newer one is FRGV SR2001
dont get the newer one,its impossible to bleed correctly with out more info on this valve,i have it and need to work out the details.
so just really got to figure out what you are getting,and for the love of god,ask for all the parts that came out of the forks to make sure he did do the job and not just change the oil.
the price of 300 for labor is good,but it is just unheard of for a shop.
to give you idea of what im saying,here is a link to my thread.i need to update it or just make a new one with instructions with what and what not to do.https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-issues-28238/
there is nothing to add to the forks,except to change out the valves and drill a hole to the gold valve if necessary,if he knows to do that or to look for info on this specific bike.
very important to know which valve.if its the rebound only,not worth much to put in by itself.its the compression thats more important at the moment.the rebound is good enough for now.
the racetech compression gold valve is gonna be either FMGV S2040G which is the G2-R,the newer one,and than the standard compression valve is FMGV S2040
rebound valves are FRGV S02 which is the standard.the newer one is FRGV SR2001
dont get the newer one,its impossible to bleed correctly with out more info on this valve,i have it and need to work out the details.
so just really got to figure out what you are getting,and for the love of god,ask for all the parts that came out of the forks to make sure he did do the job and not just change the oil.
the price of 300 for labor is good,but it is just unheard of for a shop.
to give you idea of what im saying,here is a link to my thread.i need to update it or just make a new one with instructions with what and what not to do.https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-issues-28238/
07-19-2012, 09:01 PM
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hmmmmmm,not trying to insult or saying anything bad,but it takes longer to change fork fluid than it does to change the springs,but of course hes doing the valves too,i just hope he knows how to work on these particular forks
there is nothing to add to the forks,except to change out the valves and drill a hole to the gold valve if necessary,if he knows to do that or to look for info on this specific bike.
very important to know which valve.if its the rebound only,not worth much to put in by itself.its the compression thats more important at the moment.the rebound is good enough for now.
the racetech compression gold valve is gonna be either FMGV S2040G which is the G2-R,the newer one,and than the standard compression valve is FMGV S2040
rebound valves are FRGV S02 which is the standard.the newer one is FRGV SR2001
dont get the newer one,its impossible to bleed correctly with out more info on this valve,i have it and need to work out the details.
so just really got to figure out what you are getting,and for the love of god,ask for all the parts that came out of the forks to make sure he did do the job and not just change the oil.
the price of 300 for labor is good,but it is just unheard of for a shop.
to give you idea of what im saying,here is a link to my thread.i need to update it or just make a new one with instructions with what and what not to do.https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-issues-28238/
there is nothing to add to the forks,except to change out the valves and drill a hole to the gold valve if necessary,if he knows to do that or to look for info on this specific bike.
very important to know which valve.if its the rebound only,not worth much to put in by itself.its the compression thats more important at the moment.the rebound is good enough for now.
the racetech compression gold valve is gonna be either FMGV S2040G which is the G2-R,the newer one,and than the standard compression valve is FMGV S2040
rebound valves are FRGV S02 which is the standard.the newer one is FRGV SR2001
dont get the newer one,its impossible to bleed correctly with out more info on this valve,i have it and need to work out the details.
so just really got to figure out what you are getting,and for the love of god,ask for all the parts that came out of the forks to make sure he did do the job and not just change the oil.
the price of 300 for labor is good,but it is just unheard of for a shop.
to give you idea of what im saying,here is a link to my thread.i need to update it or just make a new one with instructions with what and what not to do.https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-issues-28238/
07-19-2012, 09:07 PM
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okay thanks man... well I'm pretty confident in this guy... and his shop... he is going to be one of the racers next week in the ama race on speed television... its my first bike, and he's been helping me alot...i dont believe he has ripped me off.. all the research i've done on these forums, from u guys... have all been exactly what this guy has said... im not sure exactly what it is, but he has a few race bikes with over 100k into them at his shop he has shown me and he did all the work himself and his mechanic... so im hoping they would know what they are doing... and whatever he ordered was out of the 2010 catalog I believe... im pretty sure this guy knows exactly what to do... hes changing the fork springs and the entire assembly below the tuning... i remember him explaining the compression to me and how forks work with the damper and what not... im not sure now... god i found 9 receipts and can't find the one with that part on it... blah... I hope its right..thanks for all the info tho... i hope its not the new one in that case!!! lol
07-19-2012, 09:15 PM
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ok,sounds good,if hes been doing all that,than im sure he will get you straight and going good.
have you thought about replacing the steering head bearings while its all apart.
it could wait,its not that hard to do,just time consuming a bit.
have you thought about replacing the steering head bearings while its all apart.
it could wait,its not that hard to do,just time consuming a bit.
07-20-2012, 01:39 AM
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07-20-2012, 01:47 AM
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.. and he didn't invite me to my first race next month and is helping me get my bike with my budget ready to go on the beginner course... anyone close to vegas should come check it out.I told him about you hawk and you tweety.. he was curious as how I knew so much so fast and I told him how helpful you guys were and about your write ups and what not... but anyways.. sorry about the rant, but thanks again for all the help.. my bike should be ready by tuesday since he leaves wed for the races.. thanks again you guys who have helped me out!!! you also saige.. much appreciate fellas!
07-20-2012, 01:51 AM
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.. but i'll take the advice from these guys.. anyone recommend any frame sliders that are good quality that I can get?? i'd really like to protect my bike... blah...
07-20-2012, 01:57 AM
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about 1 minute in I drag my helmet on the race track in a 10% banked corner in 3rd gear on my Predator gsxr 600. Dale from Racers Edge is filming and we were just playin on the track. Please do not try this and thanks to the race track for not kicking me out. "hint" they will normally kick u out-insanod
Last edited by Shane702; 07-20-2012 at 02:19 AM.
07-20-2012, 05:05 AM
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this is me being a liar.. =] a lil after 1 minute in fellas ^^ happy watching
Ghilli man Draggin his helmet going fast - YouTube
about 1 minute in I drag my helmet on the race track in a 10% banked corner in 3rd gear on my Predator gsxr 600. Dale from Racers Edge is filming and we were just playin on the track. Please do not try this and thanks to the race track for not kicking me out. "hint" they will normally kick u out-insanod
Ghilli man Draggin his helmet going fast - YouTube
about 1 minute in I drag my helmet on the race track in a 10% banked corner in 3rd gear on my Predator gsxr 600. Dale from Racers Edge is filming and we were just playin on the track. Please do not try this and thanks to the race track for not kicking me out. "hint" they will normally kick u out-insanod
Not sure what a YouTube video does for your statements above, proves anyone specific is working on your bike, or is anything more then a You Tube video on a pubic accessible network... But it's a good vid, so there is that.
07-20-2012, 06:45 AM
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are those in the forks?? I will ask them tom about that.. are they like the 30$ bearings your talking about?? my psr levels came in, my fork springs valves everything is ready... but I had him order my sprockets today, and im waiting on my front ape cct also.. so either monday or tuesday I will get it all taken care of... I will be sure to drive down tom since its only a 10 minute drive and ask them about that... one of his guys is getting his bike registered after 7 months and is going to start teaching me how to wheelie this weekend.. im kind of worried tho, dont wont to wreck my bike already .. but i'll take the advice from these guys.. anyone recommend any frame sliders that are good quality that I can get?? i'd really like to protect my bike... blah...
.. but i'll take the advice from these guys.. anyone recommend any frame sliders that are good quality that I can get?? i'd really like to protect my bike... blah...the stock ones are ball bearing,the best ones to get is the allballs bearings,which are needle bearings.
bike will track so much better with them,if done ane torqued properly.
07-20-2012, 08:06 AM
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Alright thanks man..I'm going to ask here in a little bit...thanks for the tips staig I'm sure will be a good investment since its such a small cost to what I have done
07-20-2012, 08:09 AM
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Best of luck on your bike, with whoever is working on it for you.
Not sure what a YouTube video does for your statements above, proves anyone specific is working on your bike, or is anything more then a You Tube video on a pubic accessible network... But it's a good vid, so there is that.
Not sure what a YouTube video does for your statements above, proves anyone specific is working on your bike, or is anything more then a You Tube video on a pubic accessible network... But it's a good vid, so there is that.
.appreciative of the info, that's all 
07-20-2012, 08:10 AM
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The tapered steering head bearings are one of those things folks ignore.. until what they have is really bad... and then once new bearings are installed, they don’t understand why they waited so long.
07-20-2012, 08:42 AM
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even with bad,mismatch tires,i can track it a lot better.
its something like 30 or so bucks for the fix,its well worth it, especially if you upgrading fork internals.
07-20-2012, 09:03 AM
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Awesome..and I don't think my hawk was ever maintained so I'm sure this would be well worth my time at such little money...does it cost them to much more time to throw them in?
