Shifter broke, looking for an easy and inexpensive way to fix.
07-26-2010, 08:06 PM
#1
Josh
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
Shifter broke, looking for an easy and inexpensive way to fix.
Hi,
On the freeway home tonight my shifter broke in 2 while i was downshifting. It really sucked. I had to manually get it into what i believe was 3rd and then ride the rest home in 3rd.
Anyways, here is a picture of the broken shifter. I am hoping there is a somewhat simple fix that is possible locally instead of spending 90 on a new one on bikebandit.com
Also, if someone has a suggestion on where i can get a new one for less then 85 bucks, i would love to hear it. I have been watching ebay for 5+ years since i broke the pedal part of it. I did a screw fix and it worked great, so i havent been worried about fixing it with a new one.
It looks like the part is press fitted on. Anyone know where i can get the parts to build a new one?
Thanks for the help.
On the freeway home tonight my shifter broke in 2 while i was downshifting. It really sucked. I had to manually get it into what i believe was 3rd and then ride the rest home in 3rd.
Anyways, here is a picture of the broken shifter. I am hoping there is a somewhat simple fix that is possible locally instead of spending 90 on a new one on bikebandit.com
Also, if someone has a suggestion on where i can get a new one for less then 85 bucks, i would love to hear it. I have been watching ebay for 5+ years since i broke the pedal part of it. I did a screw fix and it worked great, so i havent been worried about fixing it with a new one.
It looks like the part is press fitted on. Anyone know where i can get the parts to build a new one?
Thanks for the help.
07-26-2010, 09:15 PM
#2
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
Several simple fix's.. First get a shifter from Jamie at DMr.
Second, grind off the riveted spherical ball rod end, and replace with a bolt on one... Many have done this prior to the availability of an after market shifter or rear sets..
Which brings us to the pricey fix.... Rear sets.
It would appear your shifter has seen some abuse, crash, hard long use....
Pick up a used one, and then add a new rod end.... or buy one of Jamie's.
Second, grind off the riveted spherical ball rod end, and replace with a bolt on one... Many have done this prior to the availability of an after market shifter or rear sets..
Which brings us to the pricey fix.... Rear sets.
It would appear your shifter has seen some abuse, crash, hard long use....
Pick up a used one, and then add a new rod end.... or buy one of Jamie's.
07-26-2010, 09:56 PM
#4
Josh
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
What years of VFR Shifters work? I just did an ebay search and i didnt see any that were similar.
What store sells a ball that has a bolt, so i can replace that. That sounds like a great idea. If you can give me any other ideas about how to do that mod, i would really appreciate it. I will replace this someday, but i just really want to ride. I dont want the bike down for 4 or 5 days.
What store sells a ball that has a bolt, so i can replace that. That sounds like a great idea. If you can give me any other ideas about how to do that mod, i would really appreciate it. I will replace this someday, but i just really want to ride. I dont want the bike down for 4 or 5 days.
07-27-2010, 12:32 AM
#6
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SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Essex, UK
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http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...69/Group/PEDAL
Neither the pedal or rod are shared with any other Hondas - price of new pedal should cost closer to approx $54 than $85.
Neither the pedal or rod are shared with any other Hondas - price of new pedal should cost closer to approx $54 than $85.
07-27-2010, 12:42 AM
#7
Josh
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...69/Group/PEDAL
Neither the pedal or rod are shared with any other Hondas - price of new pedal should cost closer to approx $54 than $85.
Neither the pedal or rod are shared with any other Hondas - price of new pedal should cost closer to approx $54 than $85.
The link you sent was for 74, so that is a little better and i might jump on it but i would really like to save more green.
07-27-2010, 03:00 AM
#8
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http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...69/Group/PEDAL
Neither the pedal or rod are shared with any other Honda's - price of new pedal should cost closer to approx $54 than $85.
Neither the pedal or rod are shared with any other Honda's - price of new pedal should cost closer to approx $54 than $85.
OR
$85 gets you a adjustable custom billet machined lever that has tighter tolerances then the OEM one.
An aftermarket part made by one of our own, that you might find a few other people like as well.
Something New - Billet Machined Shift Lever
As for a new rod end, most any bearing shop can set you up.
6mm male threaded rod end,, get one right hand thread and one left hand thread.
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/HR/POS6
that gets you a set of 4 @ $20.. Keep one set as spares or resale um.
When I did this to my OEM shifter I used a few button head fasteners to replicate the low clearance design of the OEM rivet type.
Replace the OEM pivot (riveted rod end) on both ends of the shifter (thats why you need 1 LH and 1 RH threaded end)
or..... hmmm.. PM coming
07-27-2010, 06:29 AM
#9
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 807
To add to what jay956 wrote:
94 VFR750 shift lever
JimTT suggested putting on a shift lever from a 94 VFR750 to reverse the shift pattern on a VTR. Thought I’d give it a try.
The short answer is that it fits and it works.
The tip of the gear change lever is tucked in about an inch from the stock position. Clearance between the gear change lever and the foot peg bracket is minimal. I was able to adjust the position of the lever so it doesn’t foul anything but others may not find the position to be acceptable. I think more pressure on the lever is needed to change gears but I didn’t do a back to back comparison. I’ve also got rather small feet, size 8 1/2. (shows what foot binding can do) People with bigger feet might have problems. The VFR lever is also ugly. Unlike the lovely cast piece on the stock VTR, the VFR lever is painted steel and it’s connected to the part that fits on the shifter shaft with a particularly hideous weld.
There wasn’t anything wrong with the stock shift arrangement on my VTR. There wasn’t a lot of play in it and, if I missed a shift, it was the rider’s fault rather than the machine’s. I find now that up shifts, especially first to second, are more positive because I’m pushing down on the shift lever. I haven’t missed a shift since I made the change but sometimes I do a flawless gear change to a gear I don’t want. The retraining process isn’t over. It’s amazing how much more attention I have to pay to push the lever in the right direction than I had to pay with the stock arrangement.
94 VFR750 shift lever
JimTT suggested putting on a shift lever from a 94 VFR750 to reverse the shift pattern on a VTR. Thought I’d give it a try.
The short answer is that it fits and it works.
The tip of the gear change lever is tucked in about an inch from the stock position. Clearance between the gear change lever and the foot peg bracket is minimal. I was able to adjust the position of the lever so it doesn’t foul anything but others may not find the position to be acceptable. I think more pressure on the lever is needed to change gears but I didn’t do a back to back comparison. I’ve also got rather small feet, size 8 1/2. (shows what foot binding can do) People with bigger feet might have problems. The VFR lever is also ugly. Unlike the lovely cast piece on the stock VTR, the VFR lever is painted steel and it’s connected to the part that fits on the shifter shaft with a particularly hideous weld.
There wasn’t anything wrong with the stock shift arrangement on my VTR. There wasn’t a lot of play in it and, if I missed a shift, it was the rider’s fault rather than the machine’s. I find now that up shifts, especially first to second, are more positive because I’m pushing down on the shift lever. I haven’t missed a shift since I made the change but sometimes I do a flawless gear change to a gear I don’t want. The retraining process isn’t over. It’s amazing how much more attention I have to pay to push the lever in the right direction than I had to pay with the stock arrangement.
07-27-2010, 09:23 AM
#12
Banned
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Location: Lake View Terrace, CA
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Well if you're a cheap bastard like me..... just go to the hardware store and buy a couple of heim joints and a piece of threaded rod and make your own.
I think I spent around $10 for the whole thing. The drill out the factory ball joints. Install a bolt through the hole and mount it up. I really don't have that good of a pic. of the set up but you can see it here:
and if you blow up the pic you can see it a bit better.
I think I spent around $10 for the whole thing. The drill out the factory ball joints. Install a bolt through the hole and mount it up. I really don't have that good of a pic. of the set up but you can see it here:
and if you blow up the pic you can see it a bit better.
07-27-2010, 10:02 AM
#13
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,132
Well if you're a cheap bastard like me..... just go to the hardware store and buy a couple of heim joints and a piece of threaded rod and make your own.
I think I spent around $10 for the whole thing. The drill out the factory ball joints. Install a bolt through the hole and mount it up. I really don't have that good of a pic. of the set up but you can see it here:
Attachment 9735
and if you blow up the pic you can see it a bit better.
I think I spent around $10 for the whole thing. The drill out the factory ball joints. Install a bolt through the hole and mount it up. I really don't have that good of a pic. of the set up but you can see it here:
Attachment 9735
and if you blow up the pic you can see it a bit better.
07-27-2010, 01:55 PM
#15
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Essex, UK
Posts: 1,707
If you can send me a link of one for 54 i would love to grab it!
http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/p...tnumber_25628/
or
The whole hanger, footpeg and pedal for $85
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/honda-firestor...#ht_500wt_1154
admittedly quite a swim
54, i would love to see that. As i said, i have been watching these on ebay and the lowest i have seen in 5 years was about 60 for a used one. The ones that are as banged up as mine with a screw in them still fetch about 45. If you can send me a link of one for 54 i would love to grab it!
The link you sent was for 74, so that is a little better and i might jump on it but i would really like to save more green.
The link you sent was for 74, so that is a little better and i might jump on it but i would really like to save more green.
07-30-2010, 05:31 PM
#16
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
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Well if you're a cheap bastard like me..... just go to the hardware store and buy a couple of heim joints and a piece of threaded rod and make your own.
I think I spent around $10 for the whole thing. The drill out the factory ball joints. Install a bolt through the hole and mount it up. I really don't have that good of a pic. of the set up but you can see it here:
Attachment 9735
and if you blow up the pic you can see it a bit better.
I think I spent around $10 for the whole thing. The drill out the factory ball joints. Install a bolt through the hole and mount it up. I really don't have that good of a pic. of the set up but you can see it here:
Attachment 9735
and if you blow up the pic you can see it a bit better.
07-30-2010, 07:46 PM
#18
Banned
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lake View Terrace, CA
Posts: 5,942
No need for all that on a 98. It uses the female threaded shifter rod.. Just drill out the OEM rod end, bolt on a 6mm male rod end and use the OEM shifter rod. Like this
07-30-2010, 08:27 PM
#20
Josh
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
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