Something New - Billet Machined Shift Lever
12-30-2008, 11:36 AM
#1
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Something New - Billet Machined Shift Lever
I've been starting to design and make some stuff for the VTR's recently. On part that has been a disappointment for me is the stock shift lever. Mine got bent just from use, plus I always thought it was kind of sloppy. On top of that I wondered what guys would do if they had really big feet as the lever is none-too-long for my size 10.5 feet. The cost (and limited availability) of complete rearsets made this something I wasn't real interested in either. So.....
I've been running this on my own bike pretty much all summer. I hadn't thrown it out there because I was going to pair it up with a billet brake lever to match on the other side. I'm not sure when I'll get the brake lever prototyped, so there is no sense in waiting around any longer. The cost for one of these is $85 which includes a new rod end to attach to the stock actuating rod. The rubber parts are reused from the stock lever. The part is adjustable in two ways. The length has two settings, one at the standard location and one that is longer. It also has two settings for the actuating rod mounting to adjust the lever throw for shorter or longer shift movements.
Anyone interested should PM me. I've already got a couple made and ready to go. I'm hoping to get enough interest to justify making more. Thanks!
I've been running this on my own bike pretty much all summer. I hadn't thrown it out there because I was going to pair it up with a billet brake lever to match on the other side. I'm not sure when I'll get the brake lever prototyped, so there is no sense in waiting around any longer. The cost for one of these is $85 which includes a new rod end to attach to the stock actuating rod. The rubber parts are reused from the stock lever. The part is adjustable in two ways. The length has two settings, one at the standard location and one that is longer. It also has two settings for the actuating rod mounting to adjust the lever throw for shorter or longer shift movements.
Anyone interested should PM me. I've already got a couple made and ready to go. I'm hoping to get enough interest to justify making more. Thanks!
12-30-2008, 12:22 PM
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very nice piece of work there. I was going to say it looks like you decided to omit the washer that goes with the main bolt there. when you made it did you widen it a bit to get a tighter fit? I'm running mine sans that washer right now (long story) with the stock shifter and there is entirely too much play in it with or without.
12-30-2008, 05:26 PM
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Did you bush or add a bearing to the pivot? That is the one thing I've been looking at doing to mine. I have been through all my bearing sources,, and short of making a new lever, I could not find a bearing that would work.... Bushing would be very doable also,,, but I no longer have a lathe.. ..
If the fit to the mounting point if better then OEM (tighter fit, but still free to move as needed) I'm all over this
If the fit to the mounting point if better then OEM (tighter fit, but still free to move as needed) I'm all over this
12-30-2008, 06:37 PM
#9
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I lengthened the OE foot shift lever about 3/4" for my size 11s, and added a thin aluminum washer behind the lever to tighten up side-play. I remember reading on this forum someone posting about replacing the OE heim joints with tighter units. The OE lever is bushed with a grease groove but the bushing does wear due to eccentric loading from boot pressure. When I installed the 1" lower varion footpeg adapters and pegs (nice mod after considering adapting Buell pegs), I lengthened the shift lever toe nub by sliding on a thin hose covered by a rubber hose with an epoxy end cap to bring out the nub the 3/8" the peg adapters kicked out the pegs, and pop-riveted and extension plate with rubber pad to extend out the brake lever pedel.
Tightening up the heim joints with AM units I think is also essential but can't find the thread. it IS NOT this thread https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ht=heim+joints
Tightening up the heim joints with AM units I think is also essential but can't find the thread. it IS NOT this thread https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ht=heim+joints
01-04-2009, 08:38 AM
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Sorry for not getting back to you guys right away. Let me try to answer a couple of the questions:
Yes, I incorporated a metal backed Teflon bearing at the pivot. Since the stock lever has the heim joint swaged in place a new one is included. With these two changes the amount of slop is noticeably decreased. There is still some play, but you need that for smooth motion.
The outside position is 10mm beyond the stock location. Yes, the cost is for the whole thing including shipping.
As mentioned above, it decreases the play a lot. There is still some but not much in the side-to-side direction, which is what I didn't like. I had actually bent mine inward by just using it (not crash damage) so it was getting difficult to get my toe under it. It's a lot better with this new part.
Did you bush or add a bearing to the pivot? That is the one thing I've been looking at doing to mine. I have been through all my bearing sources,, and short of making a new lever, I could not find a bearing that would work.... Bushing would be very doable also,,, but I no longer have a lathe.. ..
If the fit to the mounting point if better then OEM (tighter fit, but still free to move as needed) I'm all over this
If the fit to the mounting point if better then OEM (tighter fit, but still free to move as needed) I'm all over this
Yes, I incorporated a metal backed Teflon bearing at the pivot. Since the stock lever has the heim joint swaged in place a new one is included. With these two changes the amount of slop is noticeably decreased. There is still some play, but you need that for smooth motion.
The outside position is 10mm beyond the stock location. Yes, the cost is for the whole thing including shipping.
As mentioned above, it decreases the play a lot. There is still some but not much in the side-to-side direction, which is what I didn't like. I had actually bent mine inward by just using it (not crash damage) so it was getting difficult to get my toe under it. It's a lot better with this new part.
01-05-2009, 04:55 AM
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No problem, I'm just trying to gather information about the interest. I've already got commitments for all of the parts I have right now so I'll be making more soon. I just wanted to know how many to make. When you are ready, let me know!
01-06-2009, 04:15 AM
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One thing to make mote of: my bike is a 98 sold in 97 so it has the aluminum shifter rod. That means it uses a rod end (heim joint) with a male threaded end. To my knowledge the other years used a steel shifter rod with a rod end that has female threads. When the time comes, I'll need to know which type of rod you need. Hopefully I'll be able to gather some info and it will be pretty clear which type goes on a certain year. At least I hope it's that easy!
01-07-2009, 06:23 PM
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Jamie... really good talking with you.. can't wait for my new lever. Coupled with the Factory Pro shift kit, and my rod end conversion at both ends of the shift rod. I should have a slick shifting SH... With stunning good looks to boot. (the bike not the rider)
Which position on the shifter arm (linkages end) is the "standard" attachment point. closer to the pivot point? or at the end
Thinking if it is the closer one,, I'll cut off and round over the shifter, getting rid of that extra part.
The longer position for bigger feet I like, and the better fit to the pivot is great and really what I'm looking for in this item.
Great work
Which position on the shifter arm (linkages end) is the "standard" attachment point. closer to the pivot point? or at the end
Thinking if it is the closer one,, I'll cut off and round over the shifter, getting rid of that extra part.
The longer position for bigger feet I like, and the better fit to the pivot is great and really what I'm looking for in this item.
Great work
01-08-2009, 09:36 AM
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Jamie... really good talking with you.. can't wait for my new lever. Coupled with the Factory Pro shift kit, and my rod end conversion at both ends of the shift rod. I should have a slick shifting SH... With stunning good looks to boot. (the bike not the rider)
Which position on the shifter arm (linkages end) is the "standard" attachment point. closer to the pivot point? or at the end
Thinking if it is the closer one,, I'll cut off and round over the shifter, getting rid of that extra part.
The longer position for bigger feet I like, and the better fit to the pivot is great and really what I'm looking for in this item.
Great work
Which position on the shifter arm (linkages end) is the "standard" attachment point. closer to the pivot point? or at the end
Thinking if it is the closer one,, I'll cut off and round over the shifter, getting rid of that extra part.
The longer position for bigger feet I like, and the better fit to the pivot is great and really what I'm looking for in this item.
Great work
01-16-2009, 01:05 PM
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New Parts are Ready
For those of you who are interested: I have more parts that have been made. I'll try to contact some of you individually if I can. Shoot me a PM and I'll get the ball rolling for you. Thanks!
01-16-2009, 07:59 PM
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01-29-2009, 07:00 AM
#28
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Actually an easy option would be to make a mountingplate with matching bolt holes for 929/954 rearsets... Then add a few holes to move it +/- 10 mm and your done...
Those rearsets can be bought for peanuts on eBay and if you bust them there are replacement parts cheaper than for a vtr... Plus you can replace them in bits... Just the broken parts...
That's the plan I'm doing at the same time as my swingarm swap...
Those rearsets can be bought for peanuts on eBay and if you bust them there are replacement parts cheaper than for a vtr... Plus you can replace them in bits... Just the broken parts...
That's the plan I'm doing at the same time as my swingarm swap...
01-29-2009, 07:13 AM
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Actually an easy option would be to make a mountingplate with matching bolt holes for 929/954 rearsets... Then add a few holes to move it +/- 10 mm and your done...
Those rearsets can be bought for peanuts on eBay and if you bust them there are replacement parts cheaper than for a vtr... Plus you can replace them in bits... Just the broken parts...
That's the plan I'm doing at the same time as my swingarm swap...
Those rearsets can be bought for peanuts on eBay and if you bust them there are replacement parts cheaper than for a vtr... Plus you can replace them in bits... Just the broken parts...
That's the plan I'm doing at the same time as my swingarm swap...
I've considered adjustable rearsets, but not sure what the big deal is about +/-10mm....can you enlighten me?
RC
Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 01-29-2009 at 07:13 AM. Reason: spell
01-29-2009, 08:14 AM
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Actually an easy option would be to make a mountingplate with matching bolt holes for 929/954 rearsets... Then add a few holes to move it +/- 10 mm and your done...
Those rearsets can be bought for peanuts on eBay and if you bust them there are replacement parts cheaper than for a vtr... Plus you can replace them in bits... Just the broken parts...
That's the plan I'm doing at the same time as my swingarm swap...
Those rearsets can be bought for peanuts on eBay and if you bust them there are replacement parts cheaper than for a vtr... Plus you can replace them in bits... Just the broken parts...
That's the plan I'm doing at the same time as my swingarm swap...
I've thought about it, and the idea of using some CBR rearsets is a good one. Frankly, I've just been too busy with other projects to focus on something like this. I've got a whole list of things I'd like to start making for the VTR's. Hopefully the rearsets will be one of those things!
