This might be the same thing as the other guy's post, I'm not sure. In short:
I didn't change anything, that I know. I just got on the Hawk after not riding for a month, and with what I assume to be reasonable tire pressure (what's good? I have a 929 front end. I've been running ~32 psi front and rear)....

I try to stop really hard cause I decided last second to take a different route home, and the bike is hoping like no one's buisness. It's all the front wheel, it might even have been slamming into the stops both top and bottom. Gave me a heck of a ride.

Anyway, is there anything to check? This doesn't seem normal, and before when I was working my way up to trying stoppies I'd brake hard and never noticed this. Should I check my adjust shocks or tire pressure or???

Thanks!
-Abe.
P.S. Shocks from a 929, brakes from gsx-r1k, etc etc. Just looking for general advice.
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FORD ESSEX V6 ENGINE (CANADIAN)

 

Quick thoughts:

Typically rear tire runs a few pounds higher like 32/36 or 36/42.

How much do you weigh? Stock 929 springs?

A very rough road/heavy braking combination.

Rebound/compression not dialed in.

 

Thanks. I doubt the shock settings are anywhere near right, I dunno where to begin. I weigh ~190 in full 'combat dress' (riding gear included).

Any idea what's a good pressure to use? The road was pretty smooth, though there were some bigger dips. Still, it happened on the next few stops, too.
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Voyeur school

 

I use 30 for the rear on the track but for street I use about 34-35 depending on the tire 1-2 lbs less in the front. Did you change any settings on the forks? Sounds like rebound. Do you remember if you clutched and downshifted alot and how hard were you grabing the bars? Did you feel a pulsation in the brake lever? How are the tires, were you on the back of the seat or up againts the tank? Have I asked you enough questions yet?

 

If asking questions helps get an answer, by all means!

I generally ride up by the tank. A little rough on the family jewels, but it's where I end up. I didn't change any settings. I don't remember any pulsation in the level, and I think I have steel lines so I'd expect to feel it. The first time I doubt I was downshifting for addional braking. I normally do, but in a hard stop I just concentrate on stopping. The tires are ok (sadly more worn in the center), and I imagine I was grabbing the bars pretty hard.

I'll go stare at the bars and see if I can figure out how to turn up the rebound as a place to start.
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IOS GAMES

 

Turn clockwise to add rebound/compression. From what I understand about clickless showa's, the amount is not linear; i.e., 1/4 turn from full soft is much less of an adjustment than 1/4 turn near the full hard range. Make sense? IOW, the closer you are too full hard the more difference your adjustments will make. Also, make sure both forks are set to the same amount.

On my first response, I wasn't thinking about weight transfer. If you really were braking extremely hard, your rear tire was most likely in the air or skimming the road surface. With it so unweighted, any bump can upset it and make it "hop". Welcome to powerful brakes/braking. Soft fork springs allow too much fork dive and thus more weight transfer. For your weight, racetech recommends around .900 springs on a superhawk but stock 929's are .700.

Everyone diss'es Honda's linked brake system. I've only experienced the latest/greatest version on the VFR vtec and can say it really works. I'm a hard braker and don't like the fact that my "choice" of brake balance was taken away but it does work. During heavy braking, the WHOLE bike dives or hunkers down with both tires having less chance of locking up and less weight transfer to the front wheel than a conventional setup. Squid/posuers don't like it either since it's nearly impossible to do a burn out with LBS.

 

My ninja had the front forks that would get stiffer under braking, really kept that back tire down.

No - the trouble on the hawk is the front wheel bouncing, just when I thought it wouldn't.

The lighter springs could really be an issue, though. The front end seems light. I'll have to try it out later.

Is like the outter adjuster rebound and the inner compression (or visa versa)? I imagine I'll be able to find it out by looking. :-)
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MERCEDES-BENZ O370 HISTORY

 

Sorry, I have F4i forks on mine.

Check your sag too.

 

sag?
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Hash Honey Oil

 

I was having a similar problem. I screwed around with the adjustment, from H to S like a stupid Squid , and the problem begain...I have adjusted it back to full H....after reading this post....I am sure that was the issue, as it didn't happen until then....

Morale of the story, If it aint broke, Don't f***ing break it stupid!! Hopefully I have learned my lesson......

 

That's how much your suspension compresses under the bikes' weight and then when you sit on it. You change the pre-load adjuster on the forks/shock to get the "correct" number, usually measured in millimeters, of sag.

Please do a forum or web search for a much more indepth answer and proper how to quide as I don't want to type that much!

If your bike is way off right now, it will be a tremendous difference in handling/feel when you get it correct.

 

Does the riders weight have anything to do with what the tires pressure is set to?? I am a sleek 265lbs...What should the pressure be set at for round town riding? TIA...

 

The weight question was for spring rate but since you asked I don't think you need to run anything "special". You're certainly not heavy enought to exceed the GVWR or heavier than a typical rider/passenger combo.

I run pressures near max during the Texas summers to keep the tires running as cool as possible and hopefully give them more chance of lasting longer. In the winter, I run them about 6-8 psi lower.

YMMV (literally)

 

Anything that happens only once isn't a problem. See if you can duplicate it.

 

It was happening everytime I would brake hard, or med.....I adjusted it back to full H.....wow, that was it....Now I am not sure if my issue was the same as the formentioned, but that fix is what solved my problem.....That is why I love this forum.....shuuweet

 

So what you did is slow down the rate at which the shock re-extends after compression, the rebound damping. The right setting is different for everyone. Try experimenting with settings near full hard in quarter turn increments. I'll bet it'll get even better.

Glad you got it sorted.