Rear shock removal
12-28-2005, 12:10 PM
#1
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Central CA
Posts: 23
Rear shock removal
Greetings to all. I need to r/r the rear shock on my 98 SH. I have a swingarm arm stand but no hoist. Any ideas on the easy way to do it?
Sorry, no fancy aftermarket rear shock going in. When I bought the bike the front preload was completely in and the damping to "h." The rear...preload on "7" and damping completely in and the slot stripped!
I was able to get a used rear shock (cheap) and now need to replace the shock. I don't think I can cannalbize the adjuster screw, can I? Thanks.
Sorry, no fancy aftermarket rear shock going in. When I bought the bike the front preload was completely in and the damping to "h." The rear...preload on "7" and damping completely in and the slot stripped!
I was able to get a used rear shock (cheap) and now need to replace the shock. I don't think I can cannalbize the adjuster screw, can I? Thanks.
12-28-2005, 02:24 PM
#2
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 1,858
Try wedging a piece of wood between the tire and the fender well. You need to cut it to just the right length. You want to remove the weight off the shock, too little or much and the load on the shock will make removing the mounting bolts tough. Be real careful when the shock is out!
Jamie Daugherty
http://members.iquest.net/~daugherj
Jamie Daugherty
http://members.iquest.net/~daugherj
12-28-2005, 05:31 PM
#3
Moderator
MotoGP
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,553
Re: Rear shock removal
Let's see, I've had hmmmm (he's counting....... he's counting.......) SEVEN different shocks on my Superhawk in the last year! 
Break all the bolts first before you lift the bike. If this is the first time the shock has been serviced, they might be real bastards. You'll need to remove the gear shift linkage pivot to access on of the allen head bolts on the dog bone. The rest are 14 or 17mm bolts/nuts. You'll also need to raise the rear of the fuel tank for the upper shock mount.
A rear wheel stand and a way to support the rear of the bike via the rear subframe are all that's needed. I use two ratchet style tie downs (walmart has 'em) hooked to the cross brace behind the battery and the rafters in my garage. I've seen guys build a large T-frame out of cheap cast iron plumbing pipes and fittings (no welding) for the same thing.
Do yourself a favor and remove all of the linkage as it will give you more room plus you can do maintainence on them. Clean and lube all the bearings while you have everything apart as they are commonly ignored maintainence items. Those little things in the picture was once part of the rear pivot bearing on my bike! You might need a long punch for the bolts as they could be stuck.
Break all the bolts first before you lift the bike. If this is the first time the shock has been serviced, they might be real bastards. You'll need to remove the gear shift linkage pivot to access on of the allen head bolts on the dog bone. The rest are 14 or 17mm bolts/nuts. You'll also need to raise the rear of the fuel tank for the upper shock mount.
A rear wheel stand and a way to support the rear of the bike via the rear subframe are all that's needed. I use two ratchet style tie downs (walmart has 'em) hooked to the cross brace behind the battery and the rafters in my garage. I've seen guys build a large T-frame out of cheap cast iron plumbing pipes and fittings (no welding) for the same thing.
Do yourself a favor and remove all of the linkage as it will give you more room plus you can do maintainence on them. Clean and lube all the bearings while you have everything apart as they are commonly ignored maintainence items. Those little things in the picture was once part of the rear pivot bearing on my bike! You might need a long punch for the bolts as they could be stuck.
12-28-2005, 06:15 PM
#4
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Laurel, MD
Posts: 758
Similarly, I use a cheap comealong ($12 at Harbor Freight) and just hook it over a rafter and under the subframe with lengths of nylon webbing or rope. You can lift the whole bike. For the front, pull the cap off the steering stem and drop a rope down thru. Tie the bottom through a socket or something to keep it from slipping back. You'll want to take off the rear bodywork, which takes about five minutes.
07-05-2007, 09:00 AM
#6
Member
Squid
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Akershus, Norway
Posts: 99
Let's see, I've had hmmmm (he's counting....... he's counting.......) SEVEN different shocks on my Superhawk in the last year!
Do yourself a favor and remove all of the linkage as it will give you more room plus you can do maintainence on them. Clean and lube all the bearings while you have everything apart as they are commonly ignored maintainence items. Those little things in the picture was once part of the rear pivot bearing on my bike! You might need a long punch for the bolts as they could be stuck.
Do yourself a favor and remove all of the linkage as it will give you more room plus you can do maintainence on them. Clean and lube all the bearings while you have everything apart as they are commonly ignored maintainence items. Those little things in the picture was once part of the rear pivot bearing on my bike! You might need a long punch for the bolts as they could be stuck.
07-05-2007, 10:23 AM
#7
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 106
[QUOTE=superbling;13893]Let's see, I've had hmmmm (he's counting....... he's counting.......) SEVEN different shocks on my Superhawk in the last year!
QUOTE]
Seven?? Why? - Which did you like best?
QUOTE]
Seven?? Why? - Which did you like best?
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