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Rear end bucking on concrete freeway seams... shock adjustment?

Old Sep 12, 2008 | 09:38 AM
  #1  
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Rear end bucking on concrete freeway seams... shock adjustment?

I have my preload on the lowest setting, and tried softening up the rear damper. I'm not quite sure how the damper adjustment works, bike didn't come with a manual, so maybe I'm doing it wrong.

Lately I've resorted to putting all my weight on the pegs and hovering my butt above the seat like a kid on a gas station toilet, but this gets tiring.

This is on the concrete freeways, where the concrete is poured 20' at a time. I'm not sure if the back tire is coming off the ground or not, but it feels like it.

Maybe I just need to eat more? I weigh about 125. I don't think it does this with my g/f riding on the back, but its been awhile since then.
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 10:19 AM
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Dude, one of the biggest problems with a stock SH is the rear shock. You could run a 2x4 back there and get better results!

Here's a pic of the Penske shock I went with and now the bike soaks up bumps like they aren't even there

Good luck,
RC
Attached Thumbnails Rear end bucking on concrete freeway seams...  shock adjustment?-penske-rear-shock.jpg  
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 10:25 AM
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i'm pretty new to my SH too but from what i've read the stock suspension is set up for a 145lb rider. (someone correct me if i'm wrong) I would recommend maybe wearing one of those scuba diving weight belts or fillinga backpack with soup cans. jk.

My undertstanding of suspension come mostly from the mountain bike world...which is basically just lighter moto suspension. if i'm talking out of my **** here someone please call me on it...

My question (and i'm sure someone else will know this) is if there is a rebound adjustment on the stock SH rear shock. it sounds like you need to try backing it off so it doesnt spring back so quickly and buck the rear end up.

is it possible to adjust this or is the preload the only way to tweek the rear suspension?
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 10:30 AM
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BOG, you can adjust it just look for the adjuster at the bottom of the shock, but IMHO the stock rear shock is a boat anchor and should be replaced if you can afford it...RC

Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; Sep 12, 2008 at 10:31 AM. Reason: correction
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 10:37 AM
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How many turns does this adjustment screw turn?

What happens if I back it all the way out?
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 10:41 AM
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CC, I'm not sure how many turns are in it and I'd have to go out to the boat to look at it...LOL!

I say turn it and ride it and turn it and ride it and repeat until it pleases you...RC
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 12:14 PM
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On the same note for replacing the rear shock, do you have to go new? Or is there rear shock from other bikes that work?
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
This is on the concrete freeways, where the concrete is poured 20' at a time. I'm not sure if the back tire is coming off the ground or not, but it feels like it.
To me, (and I'm not a suspension expert by a long shot) that sounds like your rebound is to soft. When I had my stocker on, I set the rebound 1¾ turns out from full stiff. I'm about 160-165 with gear on.
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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you can adjust it all you want, the only adjustment that matters is when you take the stock one, adjust it to the dumpster, and adjust a different model in its place. Sorry.
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 01:49 PM
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LOL, what is the gripe with the stock one? Too stiff? Too soft?
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 02:09 PM
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I'm no expert but I have a few years experience. Try this: screw in the damping adjuster (clockwise) till it stops, then back out 1 turn (counter clockwise) and ride. Next ride, go 1/2 turn counter clockwise. Keep adjusting the same direction till you find a setting that works to help the issue. Like you (I'm guessing) I don't have $600+ to spend on a new rear shock so the oe will have to do.

clockwise stiffens damping
counter clockwise makes it softer

Same goes for fork adjusters. Hope I helped.
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cliby
adjust it to the dumpster, and adjust a different model in its place. Sorry.
Yeah, I did that with a Works Performance shock, If you don't have $800-$1200 for a new shock though, you gotta make due for a while. Unless one is lucky and gets a good used one.
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 02:24 PM
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I understand about the cash outlay. the next best alternative after softening it up with the adjusters is to ride dirtbike style with your butt off the seat (or just poised to raise off the seat) as needed. Its just the adjustment is almost non-existent in terms of affect on the shock - its just not valved that way. You can reduce preload a bit more but then you get even slow steering.
Old Sep 13, 2008 | 12:51 AM
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Another option is to get the standard shock re-valved. It suffers from the same valving problem as the forks.

As for the rebound adjustment on the standard shock, it does not compare to the adjustment on a quality unit such as WP, ohlins etc. It has a screw there, but it doesn't do a whole lot. This info comes from my suspension tuner, who is a very experienced guy, and well known here in Australia.
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