superbling

What's the gold valve kit#? What bit # to drill with? Or do you drill one? What's the recommended spring length and pre-load spacer?

If you're wondering what I'm getting at, I have a S2040 Type 1 kit that I installed in my Bandit 1200 (also 41mm) that I might pull if it's the same. It's a compression only kit but I've read on the net that the rebound side on the 'Hawk does fine with a small mod to the metering rod.

Thanks,

Doug

Random

I can't find the thread right now, but I posted up the specs that race-tech did on my forks.

My only beef with them is that "as delivered" they were NOT setup. For the prices they charge... I expected them to handle "out of the box' (they did the install). It took me the better part of 500 miles to get them sorted out.

Rollingalong

FRGV-S02 is the Gold Valve number but ..........
The springs on the Hawk are progressively wound at one end . Cutting a few of the small coils I would think would need be done to eliminate the progressive part of the equation then replace what was took out with PCV pipe then adjust for sag . You've been there before so you already knew it takes several stabs at it that is "if" you feel the need to remove the progressive function of the spring . Since the Hawks valving is designed around progressive type springs I cannot readily see that they would operate well when removing the small coils to go full circle what works on one bike does not automatically work for the next guy so I take anything I read on the net as experimenting .

These forks are hydraulic units and the best tuning tool I have ever used is fluid ..... like motor oil they are not all created equal some being thicker than others at 40c and 100c even if they are advertised as the same viscosity as in 20weight vs 20 weight . Any oil from 5.6 - 9.3 centistrokes fall in the 20wt class . Thats measured at 100c = 212F .. he he, what is the operating temp of fork oil again and besides anything is better than the tuna juice that comes in these things

Fluid can make worlds of difference and sticking with one brand that has a data sheet can help a guy adjust the viscosity .

Just speaking aloud..... I would try three different fluids or mixes of them with stock springs and just the sag height adjusted before I bought any valves new springs or started drilling on parts albeit not directly related to what your asking and the use of the Zuki valves .

I have seen alot of bucks spent in the past only for the friend to say hell with it , tired of jacking with it . It's stiffer now , don't bottom or wallow and close enough .

That could have been done with less money most times for the street ridden bike that see's many type roads .