Camelninja

Ok so Im about to order a part on Ebay..... yay... but I need to know how I can tell what the problem is. I have a brand spanking new battery in the Shawk, but the battery keeps dying on me. I even managed to pop start it in second which required a lot more finesse than my last bike, and it allowed me to ride it for quite a long time (30-40 minutes) and then I got off the bike and turned it off and the bike was already dead. I don't have a meter btw... sorry :-( Im a poor college student putting myself through grad-school with the GIBill so I really cant afford to buy a stator AND an R/R... any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Christian_man30

more than likely your r/r. i had same exact problem little over month ago. i switched to this and fixed it right up. ebay.com 320559383085. check this out as well:
http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/

lazn

over 90% of the time it is the R/R

Camelninja

Ok so I went to the website about the R/R replacement. My bike didn't fail when I was riding, once I got it popstarted it ran fine. Does everyone still think that its the R/R? Also, how hard is the operation really going to be? I don't have many tools or good facilities at my disposal so if I ruin this Ill be in deep doody. Thanks!

Tweety

The link that Christian man gave you really tells you the whole story... If you go for a R1 unit, that's how you do it... If you replace it with a new OEM unit, you can do it with the tools under the saddle if neccesary...

Camelninja

if I got this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-R...Q5fAccessories would the operation be easier? In the article that guy says the newer shawk R/R's are fine, anyone know if thats true or not? If the new model shawk R/R would just be plug and play, and if it's as good as the R6 one I would just do that.... if the operation is going to be just as annoying but the part is just as good Ill go with whatever is cheaper.... and even though it goes without saying.... if the shawk part will still suck even in its newer configuration Ill just get the R6 piece. Thanks for all the help guys.... Im sick of driving the cage.... big moving blind spot....

Tweety

Any R/R will work for getting your bike running... But an R/R without fins is only going to work for a short while... If the R/R without fins are made in China, and are "looking like Honda", it's got what in Sweden is called (translated) curb warranty... Ie the next curb you pass, the warranty expires... That one in the ebay link is such an item... My rating, "utter garbage"

The newer gen SH R/R is barely rated above "crap" in my book... You figure it out...

The Yamaha parts have a large beefy aluminium housing with fins, they have quality controlled parts inside (As does Honda's, they are still crap)... The average used R1/R6 R/R will outlast a new style Honda R/R... which in turn outlasts the older style Honda R/R, which in turn outlasts the Chinese Crap R/R... And a used Yamaha R/R cost about the same as a new Chineses R/R...

The Honda and Honda style R/R's held on by a few bolts, and you need to remove the tail fairing to get to it... Then unclip the wire, and reverse the process... The Yamaha R/R only differs in that you need to either splice in a new Yamaha plug, or separate pins and that's it...

If you don't know how to do that without help, buy a new gen Honda R/R, new and OEM, no copies... Not cheap, and not the best, but plug and play....

autoteach

A new yamaha R/R is not much either. I think the last time I checked it was under what we would pay new for ours.

looking....

autoteach

well, $130 (2004 r6) but I swear that I saw some cheaper new.

spladle160