PLEASE HELP! RUNNING ISSUES!! ABOUT TO GIVE UP
ok so here's the low down, i was riding last sunday and the front cct failed,so i had to obviously replace the cct and replace the head, slightly bent valves. so the new/used head is on, new head gasket. torqued to spec along with the cam caps.timing is perfect, checked and re checked,started the bike up and its running funny,seems kind of shake a bit, always ran perfectly smooth with little to no vibration at idle before this all happened,now it kind of shakes like a harley (not as bad,on a smaller scale).i replaced plugs all the vacuum lines are hooked up,im stumped,i just want it to run good again,i sprayed carb cleaner around the carb to head intake boots and it took a second then the idle would drop a bit then go back up, when i choked it on start up it idled high like normal then dropped way down.i took it for a ride and the exhaust sounds different then it used to kinda hallow sounding and the bike lacks power,please help im at a loss right now, i just want it fixed and im completely lost
thanks guys

thanks guys
Check the timing of the refurbished cylinder, just in case you haven't set it 180 out.
Also if you've had the carbs off then make sure they're firmly reattached and sealed and give 'em a balance.
Also if you've had the carbs off then make sure they're firmly reattached and sealed and give 'em a balance.
Last edited by Wicky; Apr 14, 2012 at 04:27 AM.
when i put the new head on i re timed it did all that and then rotated the motor by hand to make sure everything cleared smoothly, seemed to b in perfect time, would it still run 180 out without interference?
i did have them of seems like possible vacuum leak maybe? whats the most simple way to sync them at home without a sync tool
i did have them of seems like possible vacuum leak maybe? whats the most simple way to sync them at home without a sync tool
The usual symptoms for 180 out is that it'll run fine but struggle to get past 7k.
You'll need a carb balancer and a vacuum takeoff fitting for the front cylinder
www.vtr1000.org • View topic - How to balance your carbs
Use a a small smear of (vaseline/silicone) grease on the carb inlet rubbers, though if the rubber have hardened/ cracked over time then they'll need replacing.
.
whats the most simple way to sync them at home without a sync tool
www.vtr1000.org • View topic - How to balance your carbs
what sa good thing to put on the carb boots or do to make sure they seal nice aswell??
.
when i put the new head on i re timed it did all that and then rotated the motor by hand to make sure everything cleared smoothly, seemed to b in perfect time, would it still run 180 out without interference?
i did have them of seems like possible vacuum leak maybe? whats the most simple way to sync them at home without a sync tool
i did have them of seems like possible vacuum leak maybe? whats the most simple way to sync them at home without a sync tool
Last edited by Wicky; Apr 14, 2012 at 05:03 AM.
ok im going re check timing in the later AM and get the vaseline/silicone out and try that, does it sound like a vacuum leak,or sync issue, even tho it ran absolutely perfect before?all i did was pop the carbs off for clearance to take off and replace the front head
shakes
I would do a compression test. Should have 165lb cold crank pressure each cylinder. Maybe the front one is way low.

It doesn't sound like a carb sync is your problem. But here is a sync tool i built for a few bucks and it works great. Found the thread here somewhere on the forum. A few T fittings and rubber caps on the vacuum lines make it easier to do a sync without even taking anything apart. I dipped the end of the hose in the oil and siphoned it in until i had enough. Hope this isn't considered a thread jack!! Maniac2313 had a good suggestion too. It's an easy mistake to make and the Hawk will not run if it's hooked up backwards. Don't ask why I know that for sure lol. Try the easy fixes first.
+1 to Maniac2313 and check PVLIR (the location of the vacuum line to the fuel tap on the gas tank)
The symptom I encountered when the carburettors were not seated properly was a high and inconsistent idle speed followed by a sudden drop. On another occasion, I discovered that a cap on a T-fitting I had installed in the vacuum line from the rear cylinder to the fuel tap had fallen off. The bike still ran acceptably.
The symptom I encountered when the carburettors were not seated properly was a high and inconsistent idle speed followed by a sudden drop. On another occasion, I discovered that a cap on a T-fitting I had installed in the vacuum line from the rear cylinder to the fuel tap had fallen off. The bike still ran acceptably.
the petcok should b correct i also looked the diagram, up for that online,starts right up but idles slightly rough and lack more power in the low range,i dont have the right thread adapter for a compression test, id assume its good with a new cylinder and head gasket, i mean i know assuming is one thing other then actual results.but i cant help but think vacuum leak, seam like when i first fired it up it idled lkow so i thought the idle got bump and turned lower so i turned it up, once the bike ran for a bit it was wayyy high so i backed it down,and the choke idles it high for 15 seconds then its started to idle down and run really rough.i keep going back to a vacuum leak. the symptoms mimic what ive encountered working on my old chevys
If the seale between the carbs and airbox are messed up thats a possibility i didnt see where you got a variance with the carb clean... check them if theyre a little hard a little vasoline may make it seal better till new ones come in...
If you hold a straight edge on the head against the timing mark you wont misjudge if its on (as you move to see it the angle you are on can make it seem on but its really a tooth off) if there is no vacuum leak...
Im sure you have it right but you are lined up on fi and fe on the right cams and the crank is on ft not f right? You have the right valve clearances... and the carb seals to the airbox are good and the boots have no rips ot tears and are flexible? Are the velocity stacks correct front and rear?
im not sure on valve clearance. boots looked good,and ta the cams are correct and the crank is on ft. and the velocity stacks are correct, i took the bike out, pops real bad on decel and is hesitant on acceleration, especially above 3,000,im stumped and its driving me crazy
Mine acted like that when the petcock diaphragm went bad make sure thats good and definitely check valve clearance tolerance is +-.001 its got to be on or it wont run correctly...
Overlap
im not sure on valve clearance. boots looked good,and ta the cams are correct and the crank is on ft. and the velocity stacks are correct, i took the bike out, pops real bad on decel and is hesitant on acceleration, especially above 3,000,im stumped and its driving me crazy
the beat goes on-----
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