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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 05:18 PM
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please help

ok so i had a fried rectifier and plug on 97 hawk. bought new stator, new rectifier new battery, hard wired rectifier to eliminate plastic plug. now with bike off completely just noticed the red wire+ going into rectifier is hot. WITH BIKE OFF. is this normal or do i have a ground issue somewhere? if so, where would i look.
Old Jun 7, 2017 | 05:41 PM
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It's not normal and "hard" wiring was probably not a good idea. Can you post a pic of this plug-less connection?
Old Jun 7, 2017 | 06:01 PM
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http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/mod_images/rr_mod_04.jpg its pretty much this exact setup
Old Jun 7, 2017 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolverine
It's not normal and "hard" wiring was probably not a good idea. Can you post a pic of this plug-less connection?

Last edited by Wolverine; Jun 7, 2017 at 06:15 PM.
Old Jun 7, 2017 | 06:20 PM
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Sounds like you have your wires crossed somewhere. Compare to an OEM plug and confirm red and green are proper (I can't tell from your pic).

Old Jun 7, 2017 | 06:23 PM
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 06:37 PM
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ok i understand i might have wires crossed .but i dont even have the wires connected to anything.they are the stock wires that i added onto ,but before i connected new r/r the red wire is hot.the red wire touched another wire and sparked when was going to mount
Old Jun 7, 2017 | 06:41 PM
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sorry if im not so mechanically inclined. my dad has been working on the bike, he just cant use a computer for the life of him.and i cant do electric for the life of me. so im putting the post to try n get info to help him out
Old Jun 7, 2017 | 07:05 PM
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Yeah just carefully recheck the wire colors. You should really get a plug they are cheap. There is a really solid reason that all these OEMs with all their R&D money do it with a plug.

Also why did you replace the stator? They don't usually die. Was it fried or melted?
Old Jun 7, 2017 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Yeah just carefully recheck the wire colors. You should really get a plug they are cheap. There is a really solid reason that all these OEMs with all their R&D money do it with a plug.

Also why did you replace the stator? They don't usually die. Was it fried or melted?
well the reason we bypassed the plug was a wire was burnt in the plastic connector to rr. Along with the plastic connector and a prong coming out out the rr. I read numerous threads saying the plastic was cheapo and couldn't handle the heat. And how to bypass it. My voltage wasn't getting higher as rpm increased so got new rr. Figured stator was 20years old plus 20k miles might as well get a new one.
Old Jun 7, 2017 | 07:28 PM
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Certainly won't hurt you to change the stator. Maybe wasn't necessary but it's done so no worries. 3 yellows that are from stator do not matter which is where, as long as they are all front row, like my pic. Cross the green and red and you're gonna cause problems. Wiring must be 100% correct.
Have you read the threads about upgrading to a mosfet R/R? Would have benefited you immensely as the plug gets tossed.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...er-swap-14380/
Old Jun 7, 2017 | 07:32 PM
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The entire factory manual is posted in the Knowledgebase section. Get that and a volt ohm meter to your dad and he can sort it out.
Old Jun 8, 2017 | 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolverine
Certainly won't hurt you to change the stator. Maybe wasn't necessary but it's done so no worries. 3 yellows that are from stator do not matter which is where, as long as they are all front row, like my pic. Cross the green and red and you're gonna cause problems. Wiring must be 100% correct.
Have you read the threads about upgrading to a mosfet R/R? Would have benefited you immensely as the plug gets tossed.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...er-swap-14380/
yea i probably shouldve purchased that.what i don't get is i cpuldnt have the wires crossed because they arnt connected to anything, i did bubuy an upgraded rectifier from ricks
Old Jun 8, 2017 | 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolverine
Certainly won't hurt you to change the stator. Maybe wasn't necessary but it's done so no worries. 3 yellows that are from stator do not matter which is where, as long as they are all front row, like my pic. Cross the green and red and you're gonna cause problems. Wiring must be 100% correct.
Have you read the threads about upgrading to a mosfet R/R? Would have benefited you immensely as the plug gets tossed.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...er-swap-14380/
yea i probably shouldve purchased that.what i don't get is i cpuldnt have the wires crossed because they arnt connected to anything, i did bubuy an upgraded rectifier from ricks
Old Jun 8, 2017 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by CrankenFine
The entire factory manual is posted in the Knowledgebase section. Get that and a volt ohm meter to your dad and he can sort it out.
yes we have that and all wires have continuity and all ground are good. No burnt or fried wires or buildup. And the manual doesnt explain or tell what to do for the one positive wire going into rectifier always being hot?
Old Jun 8, 2017 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Mvanriel60
ok i understand i might have wires crossed .but i dont even have the wires connected to anything.they are the stock wires that i added onto ,but before i connected new r/r the red wire is hot.the red wire touched another wire and sparked when was going to mount
Might be an idea to disconnect the battery while you fiddle with electrics - esp if live and if it's possibly wired back to front.

Have you a pic of what you've done - rather than a pic from the internet of someone elses R/R.

Last edited by Wicky; Jun 8, 2017 at 08:07 AM.
Old Jun 8, 2017 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Wicky
Might be an idea to disconnect the battery while you fiddle with electrics - esp if live and if it's possibly wired back to front.

Have you a pic of what you've done - rather than a pic from the internet of someone elses R/R.
ill send a pic today aboit 4pm sorry the bikes about 25min away
Old Jun 9, 2017 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolverine
It's not normal and "hard" wiring was probably not a good idea. Can you post a pic of this plug-less connection?
just wanted to check in. The rectifier+ wire is the only wire along with solenoidthat will always constantly have power to them. Not a draw but readily available power for when you turn key. I will be uprgading to mosfet r1 rectifier in the near future but for now all problems sorted out and all charging system is spec. Also had a .05ma draw coming from trip odometer so pulled the fuse until i get to the wire issue on that. Not like i use the trip. but thanks for all input
Old Jun 9, 2017 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Mvanriel60
ill send a pic today aboit 4pm sorry the bikes about 25min away
figured it out. Pos wire in rectifier is always going to have power even with key off. Not battery voltage power but some. All other electrics are great besides draw from trip odometer.thankyou for help
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