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Mvanriel60 06-07-2017 05:18 PM

please help
 
ok so i had a fried rectifier and plug on 97 hawk. bought new stator, new rectifier new battery, hard wired rectifier to eliminate plastic plug. now with bike off completely just noticed the red wire+ going into rectifier is hot. WITH BIKE OFF. is this normal or do i have a ground issue somewhere? if so, where would i look.

Wolverine 06-07-2017 05:41 PM

It's not normal and "hard" wiring was probably not a good idea. Can you post a pic of this plug-less connection?

Mvanriel60 06-07-2017 06:01 PM

http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/mod_images/rr_mod_04.jpg its pretty much this exact setup

Mvanriel60 06-07-2017 06:01 PM


Originally Posted by Wolverine (Post 402587)
It's not normal and "hard" wiring was probably not a good idea. Can you post a pic of this plug-less connection?

http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/mod_images/rr_mod_04.jpg

Wolverine 06-07-2017 06:20 PM

Sounds like you have your wires crossed somewhere. Compare to an OEM plug and confirm red and green are proper (I can't tell from your pic).

http://www.workaround.org.uk/gfx/vtr...-rr-mod-03.jpg

Wolverine 06-07-2017 06:23 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 21215

Mvanriel60 06-07-2017 06:37 PM

ok i understand i might have wires crossed .but i dont even have the wires connected to anything.they are the stock wires that i added onto ,but before i connected new r/r the red wire is hot.the red wire touched another wire and sparked when was going to mount

Mvanriel60 06-07-2017 06:41 PM

sorry if im not so mechanically inclined. my dad has been working on the bike, he just cant use a computer for the life of him.and i cant do electric for the life of me. so im putting the post to try n get info to help him out

smokinjoe73 06-07-2017 07:05 PM

Yeah just carefully recheck the wire colors. You should really get a plug they are cheap. There is a really solid reason that all these OEMs with all their R&D money do it with a plug.

Also why did you replace the stator? They don't usually die. Was it fried or melted?

Mvanriel60 06-07-2017 07:16 PM


Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 (Post 402595)
Yeah just carefully recheck the wire colors. You should really get a plug they are cheap. There is a really solid reason that all these OEMs with all their R&D money do it with a plug.

Also why did you replace the stator? They don't usually die. Was it fried or melted?

well the reason we bypassed the plug was a wire was burnt in the plastic connector to rr. Along with the plastic connector and a prong coming out out the rr. I read numerous threads saying the plastic was cheapo and couldn't handle the heat. And how to bypass it. My voltage wasn't getting higher as rpm increased so got new rr. Figured stator was 20years old plus 20k miles might as well get a new one.

Wolverine 06-07-2017 07:28 PM

Certainly won't hurt you to change the stator. Maybe wasn't necessary but it's done so no worries. 3 yellows that are from stator do not matter which is where, as long as they are all front row, like my pic. Cross the green and red and you're gonna cause problems. Wiring must be 100% correct.
Have you read the threads about upgrading to a mosfet R/R? Would have benefited you immensely as the plug gets tossed.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...er-swap-14380/

CrankenFine 06-07-2017 07:32 PM

The entire factory manual is posted in the Knowledgebase section. Get that and a volt ohm meter to your dad and he can sort it out.

Mvanriel60 06-08-2017 06:00 AM


Originally Posted by Wolverine (Post 402597)
Certainly won't hurt you to change the stator. Maybe wasn't necessary but it's done so no worries. 3 yellows that are from stator do not matter which is where, as long as they are all front row, like my pic. Cross the green and red and you're gonna cause problems. Wiring must be 100% correct.
Have you read the threads about upgrading to a mosfet R/R? Would have benefited you immensely as the plug gets tossed.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...er-swap-14380/

yea i probably shouldve purchased that.what i don't get is i cpuldnt have the wires crossed because they arnt connected to anything, i did bubuy an upgraded rectifier from ricks

Mvanriel60 06-08-2017 06:06 AM


Originally Posted by Wolverine (Post 402597)
Certainly won't hurt you to change the stator. Maybe wasn't necessary but it's done so no worries. 3 yellows that are from stator do not matter which is where, as long as they are all front row, like my pic. Cross the green and red and you're gonna cause problems. Wiring must be 100% correct.
Have you read the threads about upgrading to a mosfet R/R? Would have benefited you immensely as the plug gets tossed.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...er-swap-14380/

yea i probably shouldve purchased that.what i don't get is i cpuldnt have the wires crossed because they arnt connected to anything, i did bubuy an upgraded rectifier from ricks

Mvanriel60 06-08-2017 06:09 AM


Originally Posted by CrankenFine (Post 402599)
The entire factory manual is posted in the Knowledgebase section. Get that and a volt ohm meter to your dad and he can sort it out.

yes we have that and all wires have continuity and all ground are good. No burnt or fried wires or buildup. And the manual doesnt explain or tell what to do for the one positive wire going into rectifier always being hot?

Wicky 06-08-2017 07:57 AM


Originally Posted by Mvanriel60 (Post 402592)
ok i understand i might have wires crossed .but i dont even have the wires connected to anything.they are the stock wires that i added onto ,but before i connected new r/r the red wire is hot.the red wire touched another wire and sparked when was going to mount

Might be an idea to disconnect the battery while you fiddle with electrics - esp if live and if it's possibly wired back to front.

Have you a pic of what you've done - rather than a pic from the internet of someone elses R/R.

Mvanriel60 06-08-2017 08:15 AM


Originally Posted by Wicky (Post 402610)
Might be an idea to disconnect the battery while you fiddle with electrics - esp if live and if it's possibly wired back to front.

Have you a pic of what you've done - rather than a pic from the internet of someone elses R/R.

ill send a pic today aboit 4pm sorry the bikes about 25min away

Mvanriel60 06-09-2017 08:49 AM


Originally Posted by Wolverine (Post 402587)
It's not normal and "hard" wiring was probably not a good idea. Can you post a pic of this plug-less connection?

just wanted to check in. The rectifier+ wire is the only wire along with solenoidthat will always constantly have power to them. Not a draw but readily available power for when you turn key. I will be uprgading to mosfet r1 rectifier in the near future but for now all problems sorted out and all charging system is spec. Also had a .05ma draw coming from trip odometer so pulled the fuse until i get to the wire issue on that. Not like i use the trip. but thanks for all input

Mvanriel60 06-09-2017 08:50 AM


Originally Posted by Mvanriel60 (Post 402612)
ill send a pic today aboit 4pm sorry the bikes about 25min away

figured it out. Pos wire in rectifier is always going to have power even with key off. Not battery voltage power but some. All other electrics are great besides draw from trip odometer.thankyou for help


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