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OK, carbs are open... couple of questions.

Old 08-26-2013, 07:34 PM
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OK, carbs are open... couple of questions.

Houston, we have a problem. Or two.

One of the butterflies (on rear carb) seems to be stuck. I thought it was the throttle cable until I got this far and realized I can see the front butterfly move, and the linkage try to move, but the rear assembly is pretty stuck. I expect poking a screwdriver at the butterfly and hammering on it isn't the first choice. I was amazed that the front carb was pretty clean, and the back carb looked like parts had been dug out of LaBrea tar pits.


Yeah, the jets are somewhere under there.

Anyway, this is where it seems to be stuck, and working the linkage or pushing on the butterfly doesn't help. So I'm looking for input on where it may be sticking. I sprayed all the linkages (and everything else) with carb cleaner.



Secondly, I have the top diaphragm out, but I don't see how the needle separates from it, and I'm not real willing to tug at it until I understand it better.

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Old 08-26-2013, 08:05 PM
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Boy, that sucker looks like it's going to take some work. If it were me personally, I would take that connecting link off and try to just deal with the rear carb. Not separate the frames, but just the linkages. It may take a couple of rounds of cleaner to loosen it up?

The answer to your second question is this:
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Use a screw from the diaphragm cap and thread it in, then use that as a handle to wiggle the needle holder out.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:25 PM
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Good suggestion on that linkage, I'll try that. I was hesitant, because I didn't want to damage or bend the linkage.

Thanks for the info on the needle, I've never seen one like this before!!
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:53 PM
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That black gunk looks menacing. Was the bike a flood victim? Maybe its plankton? Gotta figue thats why the stuff wont move. No carb should look like that ever.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:14 PM
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An attorney moved here from Texas with that bike, and then didn't ever start it again. It sat in his garage for 5 years, and then I bought it. Funny thing is, the front carb wasn't near as bad... a little green here and there.

Chemical analysis results are in from the lab, and it turns out the black stuff is made up of...
The same slime that killed Tasha Yar.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:27 PM
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Oh ftl, I see you got mad jokes.......
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:48 PM
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OK, the black gunk is gone, but I have some very serious concerns about cleaning internal carb passages.

Also, I checked the jets, they're #50, and I pulled one needle and it appears to be aftermarket, and the clip is in the second slot from the bottom. So I'm reconciling how this fits into the carb thread... it said to use #48 jets, but these aren't stock needles.

The rear carb butterfly is now moving, thanks to a liberal application of carb cleaner on the inside, and WD40 on the linkages. It doesn't snap back to closed on the spring alone, but does move very well considering it was acting like a solid part yesterday.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:13 PM
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I have not opened my carbs yet (waiting to make a carb balancer) But the advice I feel you will get is order stock needles and follow 8541Hawk's thread (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-set-up-24769/) but it looks liek you have already read that in depth just my .02. It's always better to start with something you know that works. The number of holes in the slides are something to look at. Not that you don't know this already and I'm just taking space
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:23 AM
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If you have long slide springs (like 12 inches) and only 2 lift holes in the slide you probably have a Factory Pro kit in there, the 50 slow jet gives it away as memory serves. This is not so far off Hawks setup in that he uses 48 slow and shims the needles.

Also beware of the emulsion tubes I think FP used to recommend running 2 rear or 2 front, they are different follow Hawks setup and you won't be far off and you can use these needles probably in 2nd from top groove.

The short version of this is do Hawks setup, only difference will be the FP needles!


If the springs are much shorter and their is a 3 rd lift hole it's Dyno Jet remove and discard! Start over!
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by HRCA#1 View Post
If you have long slide springs (like 12 inches) and only 2 lift holes in the slide you probably have a Factory Pro kit in there, the 50 slow jet gives it away as memory serves. This is not so far off Hawks setup in that he uses 48 slow and shims the needles.
Also beware of the emulsion tubes I think FP used to recommend running 2 rear or 2 front, they are different follow Hawks setup and you won't be far off and you can use these needles probably in 2nd from top groove.
The short version of this is do Hawks setup, only difference will be the FP needles!
Good call on the Factory Pro kit, it has L-O-O-O-O-N-G springs, like 12 inches at least! That's the info I was hoping for, I figured it was a jet kit, but didn't know any more than that.

I'm not sure what you're referring to when you say emulsion tubes. I don't know what that is. And the needles are currently in the second from the bottom groove.

I'm also very concerned about internal orifices in the carbs- my method thus far has been pick an opening and clean it until spray carb cleaner comes out somewhere else, showing the passage is clear. I'm unsure about the single brass post with a small hole that's at a 45 degree angle, coming out form under the floats. What is that, and where does it feed to or from?

Last edited by FTL900; 08-28-2013 at 08:38 AM.
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:47 AM
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Those are air bleeds and are either open or clogged. You can use your carb cleaner and compressed air to blow them out. If you pull the mains and emulsion tubes you'll find that's where one of the air bleeds leads to.

The emulsion tubes are covered in Hawks carb setup thread. They're under the main jets. Front and rear are different.

PS

Move the needle clip to 2 from top, it's way too rich!

Last edited by HRCA#1; 08-28-2013 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:19 AM
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OK, i didn't know those were called emulsion tubes. I learned something else new today.

What about the little tube, the smaller one next to the jets?? What does it lead out to? I expect that's going to be challenging to clean out since it doesn't unscrew.
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:41 AM
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I wa thinking Factory Pro as well as soon as you mentioned 50's. Don't mix the emulsion tubes up as they are different. Putting a rear tube in the front as well, is Factory's solution to blocking a lift hole as in Hawks set up. So best to leave them as standard. With the jets that tarred up those Emulsion tubes will need a good soaking in cleaner. Don't be afraid to clean all the passageways. Just use a straw down on you carb cleaning spray. Shove it in and spray away. Remove the fuel A/F screws and clean down through there. Watch out for the little spring, washer and rubber O ring under the fuel screw. Spray through all the air beed jets on top of the carb, spray through all holes ib the carb throat. Basically every orifice you have access to. Those carbs are minging (as mucky as anything).

The worst I ever had was the following:
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(:-})
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:55 AM
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Uh... yeah.. about that. The emulsion tubes and the jets are soaking away in the carb cleaner can... together. In a communal fashion. So I'll have to figure out what's different, because I looked closely and they sure looked the same- unlike the stockers.

The rest of those parts I'll have to look up by name to see where you're talking about. But basically, I'll be alternating carb cleaner and compressed air in every orifice until it shoots out somewhere else.
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:15 AM
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Note the alignment of the holes.

(:-})

Last edited by cybercarl; 08-29-2013 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:03 AM
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When you can look closely at the emulsion tubes you'll see they ave the same number of holes but the holes are closer to the end on one of them. I don't remember which is which but Hawks article shows them.
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