Hi,

I've recently bought a 98 model and (according to the previous owner) it had a top end engine rebuild approx 5,000 klms ago (what's that, about 3,000 miles?) due to CCT failure.

It is good and tight and goes like a rocket, however I notice especially when the engine is hot that there is a fair bit of tappet noise, noticeable mainly at idle or low revs.

Is this just in need of the tappet clearances being redone or is it likely to be an indication of CCTs failing (already!).

Cheers, Paul.

 

Unlikely that it's the CCT's. From what I've read there is no real warning sound. The CCT spring breaks and the engine self destructs. Maybe the rebuilder didn't get the clearance right.
Oh yeah, if you don't have MCCT's you should consider swapping out the stock ones.

 

Thanks for your reply.
No, (I believe) I have the factory standard CCTs.
How often to the manual ones usually need adjusting? Is it a complicated job?

 

No, not complex at all. You do need to have a basic understanding of 4 cycle valve timing and the crank timing * of the engine. Read thoroughly the Knowledge base thread on MCCT install and adjustment. The hardest part (for me) is learning the feel for setting the tension. I followed the instructions in the KB thread, but also used a long screwdriver as a stethoscope to make sure the the amount of slack was the same. Did it cold and hot. Again read the article.
I have read that the CCT'S go for thousands of miles before they need adjusted.
The peace of mind I gained was more than worth the trouble of the install.
With all this there are some on this forum that use stock CCT's and replace them at regular intervals.

 

The first culprit is the CCT's. Once I replaced mine the tapping noise went away. The second is making sure you have the correct oil. Make sure you are running a heavier weight oil 10w/40 or similar for the weather you are riding in. Third if it still is tapping away you will need to check the valves. But if you install some manual CCT's you can check the valves while you are at it. It will actually be better to pull the valve covers to install the manual CCT's anyways so might as well kill 2 birds with one stone. PM me if you need any help. I might be new but im not green.

 

Also, I had a very slight tapping noise...after I replaced my CCT's no change...rev high no change it's a static tap tap tap...I finally figured out it's my exhaust....

On a side note, you will discover after research that our VTR's make alot of ......weird...little...noises....differentiating between normality and potential issues can be hard.


+++ I also have a 1998 VTR with 25027 miles. You can take off the rear valve cover very easily to verify everything is looking good....I did not want to take off my front as the work involved is....well....I'd rather pay someone to do the front.... At any rate....so long as the noise does not get louder or, remains constant regardless of RPM / Speed, I wouldn't worry about it.

If you do want to check the valves, the back is eazy peazy, the front...get ready to take off your front fairings and dig in deep to make things easier...some users MUST have double joints in their elbows and can squeeze in with the fairings on to take off the front cover..but to give it a proper look over...I want to see the whole "sha~bang".

For the price I payed for this bike....It has already provided me with everything I ever wanted....once she breaks, assuming it is "bad," I'll be parting her out. I don't see this happening anytime soon.....this bike is SOLID.

 

In addition, if you have the Factory CCT's, they are automatic and self adjust...however they are prone to failure.....don't risk it.

In terms of replacing the CCT's with manual ones....I work in IT as a server administrator, I am not mechanically inclined but I know how to follow instructions....You will need to READ READ READ and READ some more to ensure you are at Top Dead Center <TDC> and on the proper lobe <exhaust versus intake>. When you release your CCT's and you hear THE FU#$%$# click of DOOM.....you are in for more than you bargained for...your timing is now a tooth + off... <face palm>

Luckily for me, I did the job SOBER and with utter diligence as to ensure everything was F#$%$#% 100% perfect.

The back is easy because <as I stated in teh previous post> you can verify which lobe you are on and that you are properly TDC. I left the cover on the front and kept my fingers crossed....

Everything worked out 100% for me....

If you jump a tooth. Well, I would take it into a shop because I know my own limitations.

I wish I could tell you which way the pointy ends of the lobe should be, however I forgot everything...however <yes I love this word> there are plenty of how-to's on this forum which I used and copied + paste for my instructions...you should be fine assuming you are not a total dip~S%$*

 

As mentioned earlier, our bikes make a few wierd little noises. One of them is the carb slides at idle. The slides bounce up and down at idle/low RPM's and make the sound you are hearing. Believe me, it got me too!

There have been several new owners hearing this and thinking they have had a CCT failure, when this is not the case. If your CCT fails, your engine stops being an engine and starts being a really neat lookin' paper weight (to some that is).

 

i am one of them
i did ended up changing them then looked further, my problem where the carb farts or carb backfiring ? maybe a carb sync

grtz