New owner. First week riding, Questions!?
08-14-2009, 02:02 PM
#1
New Hawk Rider
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ventura Co. SoCAL
Posts: 258
New owner. First week riding, Questions!?
Good evening.
Well I finally got my hawk back to GA from FL and was able to take it around the city and back and forth to work some this week. Pardon me if some of these questions are from Noob experience but I want to get a good handle on what to expect.
1. First and foremost; The irregular problem with my speedo blinking out and back on. I have searched on here and narrowed it down to a possible 3 issues.
2. Stalling. I know some of the times it was due to the nut connecting the seat and handlebars. However, a few times when coming to a stop at a light or in traffic starting out in first gear the bike would just die during idle. When these bikes get hotter and hotter from riding in the summer, do they develop a more gas hungry attitude to keep them idleing while stopped in traffic? Also, it seemed like a sometimes I could give just a little gas and have no problems from a dead stop and other times the bike seemed like it really needed more and more gas to go with the same amount of throttle. (I also learned they really are not fond of starting from a dead stop in 2nd! That was a bit embarassing!)
3. Apartment living! Why the hell does it seem like once you get a really nice bike that it never fails to have someone knock it over in the parking lot as soon as you get it home!! I have had the bike all of 5 days and today it (along with 2 other bikes) was knocked over in our parking lot. I am very lucky mine took no damage. The bar end is a little scratched up but the fairings and everything else are like new still.
Any insight from you long time Hawk riders would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
James
2000 Superhawk 4,400 miles.
Well I finally got my hawk back to GA from FL and was able to take it around the city and back and forth to work some this week. Pardon me if some of these questions are from Noob experience but I want to get a good handle on what to expect.
1. First and foremost; The irregular problem with my speedo blinking out and back on. I have searched on here and narrowed it down to a possible 3 issues.
- The R/R
- The sensor by the back cylinder
- The little plastic thing up on the front wheel (not sure what that is)?
2. Stalling. I know some of the times it was due to the nut connecting the seat and handlebars. However, a few times when coming to a stop at a light or in traffic starting out in first gear the bike would just die during idle. When these bikes get hotter and hotter from riding in the summer, do they develop a more gas hungry attitude to keep them idleing while stopped in traffic? Also, it seemed like a sometimes I could give just a little gas and have no problems from a dead stop and other times the bike seemed like it really needed more and more gas to go with the same amount of throttle. (I also learned they really are not fond of starting from a dead stop in 2nd! That was a bit embarassing!)
3. Apartment living! Why the hell does it seem like once you get a really nice bike that it never fails to have someone knock it over in the parking lot as soon as you get it home!! I have had the bike all of 5 days and today it (along with 2 other bikes) was knocked over in our parking lot. I am very lucky mine took no damage. The bar end is a little scratched up but the fairings and everything else are like new still.
Any insight from you long time Hawk riders would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
James
2000 Superhawk 4,400 miles.
08-14-2009, 02:14 PM
#2
New Hawk Rider
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ventura Co. SoCAL
Posts: 258
One other thing I forgot. Once the bike warmed up quite a bit it seemed to slip from 1st to N instead of up to 2nd when I would shift. It did that about 2-3 times on me today.
08-14-2009, 02:30 PM
#3
2nd mouse gets the cheese
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 1,697
It seems odd that with only 4,400 miles your R/r would be toast, not saying it isn't but worth a check anyhow. Look over all your connectors to make sure the are getting good contact. Especially look over all the connectors related to R/r.
As far as your off idle response your Throttle position sensor may not be adjusted very well. You should also check this. Otherwise, some questions we need to know. Exhaust, jet kit and air filter?
To shift into second don't baby it, they all need a good shove and will make a clunk sound. Shift confidently and you will stop missing your shifts 1st to 2nd.
The dying at lights can be remedied by slight adjustment of the idle mixture screws.
Sucks your bike got pushed over. Welcome to the forum!
As far as your off idle response your Throttle position sensor may not be adjusted very well. You should also check this. Otherwise, some questions we need to know. Exhaust, jet kit and air filter?
To shift into second don't baby it, they all need a good shove and will make a clunk sound. Shift confidently and you will stop missing your shifts 1st to 2nd.
The dying at lights can be remedied by slight adjustment of the idle mixture screws.
Sucks your bike got pushed over. Welcome to the forum!
08-14-2009, 02:44 PM
#5
New Hawk Rider
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ventura Co. SoCAL
Posts: 258
It seems odd that with only 4,400 miles your R/r would be toast, not saying it isn't but worth a check anyhow. Look over all your connectors to make sure the are getting good contact. Especially look over all the connectors related to R/r. Thanks for the advice, I will check them out.
As far as your off idle response your Throttle position sensor may not be adjusted very well. You should also check this. Otherwise, some questions we need to know. Exhaust, jet kit and air filter? 100% stock
To shift into second don't baby it, they all need a good shove and will make a clunk sound. Shift confidently and you will stop missing your shifts 1st to 2nd. I know what you are talking about when you mention the clunking sound. My 1975 Honda was the same way. I dont think they have changed much in that regard.
The dying at lights can be remedied by slight adjustment of the idle mixture screws. I thought this may be the case but wanted a second opinion. I paid attention to the RPM at idle at the lights and it was holding at 1000. I tried using throttle and holding at 1200 and it did seem to help. Maybe adjust to 1100?
Sucks your bike got pushed over. Welcome to the forum!
Thanks!
As far as your off idle response your Throttle position sensor may not be adjusted very well. You should also check this. Otherwise, some questions we need to know. Exhaust, jet kit and air filter? 100% stock
To shift into second don't baby it, they all need a good shove and will make a clunk sound. Shift confidently and you will stop missing your shifts 1st to 2nd. I know what you are talking about when you mention the clunking sound. My 1975 Honda was the same way. I dont think they have changed much in that regard.
The dying at lights can be remedied by slight adjustment of the idle mixture screws. I thought this may be the case but wanted a second opinion. I paid attention to the RPM at idle at the lights and it was holding at 1000. I tried using throttle and holding at 1200 and it did seem to help. Maybe adjust to 1100?
Sucks your bike got pushed over. Welcome to the forum!
Thanks!
08-14-2009, 02:47 PM
#6
New Hawk Rider
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ventura Co. SoCAL
Posts: 258
08-14-2009, 04:15 PM
#7
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 111
I had the same problem with my 98 dieing at lights, even after I had been riding it for a little bit. I adjusted the idle speed, after I read a post on here about similar issue, and the problem was solved. Turns out my bike's idle was set at the lowest it could go before I bought it from the previous owner.
08-14-2009, 04:51 PM
#8
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 505
Mine used to die often as well. I keep my idle between 1100 and 1200. Carb sync and TPS adjustment seemed to do the trick. I've also tickered with the jetting more than a few times which may have altered things a little. But I think the sync and TPS had the biggest effect on it.
08-14-2009, 06:28 PM
#10
New Hawk Rider
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ventura Co. SoCAL
Posts: 258
So should I get my idle RPM up closer to the 1200 mark vs the 1000 mark? It seems like it would help to be a bit on the higher end over the lower end then.
Thanks fuzz, it's the normal little things I want to get a handle on so that I am not over stressing the small things with this bike. I know all bikes will have their little quarks, it's nice to have somewhere like this to come and get caught up on the ones for the VTR.
Thanks fuzz, it's the normal little things I want to get a handle on so that I am not over stressing the small things with this bike. I know all bikes will have their little quarks, it's nice to have somewhere like this to come and get caught up on the ones for the VTR.
08-14-2009, 06:46 PM
#11
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toronto
Posts: 210
Raising the idle RPM to 1,200 will help a lot.
Make sure your air filter is clean, and check your plugs or just change them.
Even when my bike was only 2 days old, I was stuck in traffic downtown Toronto and it stalled 5 times in less than 4 minutes.
Make sure your air filter is clean, and check your plugs or just change them.
Even when my bike was only 2 days old, I was stuck in traffic downtown Toronto and it stalled 5 times in less than 4 minutes.
08-15-2009, 01:21 AM
#13
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sunshine Coast, Australia
Posts: 963
Idle speed of 1200-1300 is the best spot.
Gearchange is crap in my opinion. Fix it!!!!!
First job is to adjust the position of the shifter linkage to reduce the throw of the lever. Second job is to replace the standard joints on the shift rod with heim joints. Both of these mods are detailed on this forum somewhere, but I am not sure where. I have one detailed on another forum, but you have to be a member to access it, so I will just cut and paste in in here for you. As for the heim joint mod, I don't have that written up anywhere handy. You may find it on here yourself, but it is not rocket science. The standard joints can be removed by grinding them off the shift rod, and then installing heim joints in their place. Heim joints are available from places that sell bearings etc, and can be located with a nut and bolt. The threads will go straight into the shift rod, so it is pretty easy. Yamaha use this kind of set up on their bikes with a rubber boot over them to keep dirt out, so you can buy the rubber boots from them.
What you do is move the linkage on the gearshaft which changes the angle of the shift rod, and thus shorten the throw of the lever. This means you move your foot less on the upshift to get another gear.
Tools required : 10mm open ender.
Time : 5 minutes.
Skill required : Virtually none, too easy.
Firstly measure from your shifter to the ground so that you can ensure it stays in the same comfortable spot after the job is done.
Loosen both 10mm lock nuts on the shift rod.
WARNING - FRONT NUT IS LEFT HAND THREAD
Remove the 10mm bolt from the linkage on the gearbox shaft spline.
Slip the linkage off the spline and rotate it one tooth clockwise. This will raise the shifter quite a lot. (I am doing this from memory, it is possible it may be anti-clockwise)
Finally adjust the shift rod to place the shifter back to the original measurement you took at the start of the excercise.
Gearchange is crap in my opinion. Fix it!!!!!
First job is to adjust the position of the shifter linkage to reduce the throw of the lever. Second job is to replace the standard joints on the shift rod with heim joints. Both of these mods are detailed on this forum somewhere, but I am not sure where. I have one detailed on another forum, but you have to be a member to access it, so I will just cut and paste in in here for you. As for the heim joint mod, I don't have that written up anywhere handy. You may find it on here yourself, but it is not rocket science. The standard joints can be removed by grinding them off the shift rod, and then installing heim joints in their place. Heim joints are available from places that sell bearings etc, and can be located with a nut and bolt. The threads will go straight into the shift rod, so it is pretty easy. Yamaha use this kind of set up on their bikes with a rubber boot over them to keep dirt out, so you can buy the rubber boots from them.
What you do is move the linkage on the gearshaft which changes the angle of the shift rod, and thus shorten the throw of the lever. This means you move your foot less on the upshift to get another gear.
Tools required : 10mm open ender.
Time : 5 minutes.
Skill required : Virtually none, too easy.
Firstly measure from your shifter to the ground so that you can ensure it stays in the same comfortable spot after the job is done.
Loosen both 10mm lock nuts on the shift rod.
WARNING - FRONT NUT IS LEFT HAND THREAD
Remove the 10mm bolt from the linkage on the gearbox shaft spline.
Slip the linkage off the spline and rotate it one tooth clockwise. This will raise the shifter quite a lot. (I am doing this from memory, it is possible it may be anti-clockwise)
Finally adjust the shift rod to place the shifter back to the original measurement you took at the start of the excercise.
08-15-2009, 02:32 AM
#14
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sunshine Coast, Australia
Posts: 963
I have just done a write up of the heim joint mod on the Australian forum, and will copy it into here for you. Prices for parts are in Australian dollars, so you guys will get them cheaper.
This is a mod I did 3 or 4 years ago, but have never written it up properly. I have just realised this now, when I went to pass the info on to someone.
The VTR gearshift leaves a lot to be desired in my opinion. It has a few shortcomings, all of which can be fixed. The first mod is to improve the throw of the shifter by moving the spline position, and this is detailed in the "Archive" already so I will not repeat it here. Another mod is to change the shift star to a Factory Pro unit which is far superior to the Honda part. This does necessitate the removal of the clutch to fit it, and it is also reasonably expensive.
The third mod to do is to improve the actual linkage itself. This is a two part job, the first part is to improve the tolerance between the shifter bolt shaft and the shifter body. There is a lot of play in this even on a new bike. I got a machine shop to install a brass bush in the shifter body to match the bolt shaft size better. Hard to do this mod at home without the proper equipment, but the next step you can do easily, and will give a nice improvement to the shifter feel. The reason I re-bushed the shifter rather than installing a bearing, was simply because I could not get a suitable size bearing to fit the bolt and shifter body.
The shift rod has a ball and cup joint on each end which has a lot of play in it. If you have a look at CBR you will see Honda have used heim joints on this part. We can use similar parts to improve the VTR. Here is a pic of a heim joint.
These can be bought from your local engineering or bearing supplier. Last time I looked they were $17.50 each. You will need one with a right hand thread and one with a left hand thread.
Honda use riveted joints on their shift rods, so you cannot use a Honda part (on the bikes I have seen anyway), you will need an aftermarket heim joint. This also means you will need to get the grinder out to remove the old joints. Grind the rivet flat and knock it out with a punch. This will leave the shift rod with a hole in the end that will take a 6mm bolt to locate the heim joint. In the picture above you can see bolts to locate them.
Before you remove the old joints, it is a good idea to measure your shift rod length, to enable you to easily get your lever position right after the new joints are fitted.
As a finishing touch you can fit rubber boots to cover the heim joints. This will keep dirt out of them. I applied grease to mine and then put the boots over them to keep them working nicely. Last time I looked Honda didn't fit boots over their shift rod heim joints on the CBR, but Yamaha do on their bikes, and the joints are the same size. Yamaha spare parts will sell you a set for about $10 from memory.
This mod takes a lot of play out the standard VTR shift mechanism, and for the small cost and little time to do the job, is well worth doing.
Another forum member, Jamie Doherty, makes a shifter with a bearing fitted, so this may be a good option. I am not aware if he supplies a new shift rod with it as well. My mod is for the standard shifter.
This is a mod I did 3 or 4 years ago, but have never written it up properly. I have just realised this now, when I went to pass the info on to someone.
The VTR gearshift leaves a lot to be desired in my opinion. It has a few shortcomings, all of which can be fixed. The first mod is to improve the throw of the shifter by moving the spline position, and this is detailed in the "Archive" already so I will not repeat it here. Another mod is to change the shift star to a Factory Pro unit which is far superior to the Honda part. This does necessitate the removal of the clutch to fit it, and it is also reasonably expensive.
The third mod to do is to improve the actual linkage itself. This is a two part job, the first part is to improve the tolerance between the shifter bolt shaft and the shifter body. There is a lot of play in this even on a new bike. I got a machine shop to install a brass bush in the shifter body to match the bolt shaft size better. Hard to do this mod at home without the proper equipment, but the next step you can do easily, and will give a nice improvement to the shifter feel. The reason I re-bushed the shifter rather than installing a bearing, was simply because I could not get a suitable size bearing to fit the bolt and shifter body.
The shift rod has a ball and cup joint on each end which has a lot of play in it. If you have a look at CBR you will see Honda have used heim joints on this part. We can use similar parts to improve the VTR. Here is a pic of a heim joint.
These can be bought from your local engineering or bearing supplier. Last time I looked they were $17.50 each. You will need one with a right hand thread and one with a left hand thread.
Honda use riveted joints on their shift rods, so you cannot use a Honda part (on the bikes I have seen anyway), you will need an aftermarket heim joint. This also means you will need to get the grinder out to remove the old joints. Grind the rivet flat and knock it out with a punch. This will leave the shift rod with a hole in the end that will take a 6mm bolt to locate the heim joint. In the picture above you can see bolts to locate them.
Before you remove the old joints, it is a good idea to measure your shift rod length, to enable you to easily get your lever position right after the new joints are fitted.
As a finishing touch you can fit rubber boots to cover the heim joints. This will keep dirt out of them. I applied grease to mine and then put the boots over them to keep them working nicely. Last time I looked Honda didn't fit boots over their shift rod heim joints on the CBR, but Yamaha do on their bikes, and the joints are the same size.
Yamaha spare parts will sell you a set for about $10 from memory.This mod takes a lot of play out the standard VTR shift mechanism, and for the small cost and little time to do the job, is well worth doing.
Another forum member, Jamie Doherty, makes a shifter with a bearing fitted, so this may be a good option. I am not aware if he supplies a new shift rod with it as well. My mod is for the standard shifter.
Last edited by shayne; 08-15-2009 at 03:12 AM.
08-15-2009, 04:12 AM
#15
COBB Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NorthEast Connecticut
Posts: 292
Man, don't ya hate it when people just cant leave your stuff alone! Just a thought. get one of those Nanny cams and maybe you'll catch the bum/s in action and can take care of em anyway you see fit.
I've only had my Hawk for a couple of mos, and I'll tell ya this, the people on here are great, a fountain of info. and allways ready to help out.
So that said, one of my first mods was the TPS, just use the search function and you'll find it.
Now. I couldn't get mine down below 1200 ohms on the bike with the adjustment available in the factory mounting. With it off the bike it would go down below 400 ohms (with 400 being the target) when it hit the stop tabs.
So I removed the factory insert, used a dremel with a bit that fit the slot and elongated the slot in the direction I needed to go. (You could use a round file in a pinch.)
After I had it set up so I could adjust it on the bike to approx. 400 ohms I just used 2 part epoxy to fill in the open area of the slot where the insert used to be. (For Purposes of strength, removed from the bike).
I did find that it was easier to use my meter with a couple of pieces of wire attached to the pins as opposed to trying to hold the probes to the pins while adjusting.
I used the wires and pins removed from an old computer 12 volt connector, they fit right on the TPS pins.
My Bike idles at just a tad over 1000 rpm and hasn't stalled on me once.
One thing about this forum though, yer gonna wanna do a lot of mods, almost lookin forward to winter this year LOL.
I've only had my Hawk for a couple of mos, and I'll tell ya this, the people on here are great, a fountain of info. and allways ready to help out.
So that said, one of my first mods was the TPS, just use the search function and you'll find it.
Now. I couldn't get mine down below 1200 ohms on the bike with the adjustment available in the factory mounting. With it off the bike it would go down below 400 ohms (with 400 being the target) when it hit the stop tabs.
So I removed the factory insert, used a dremel with a bit that fit the slot and elongated the slot in the direction I needed to go. (You could use a round file in a pinch.)
After I had it set up so I could adjust it on the bike to approx. 400 ohms I just used 2 part epoxy to fill in the open area of the slot where the insert used to be. (For Purposes of strength, removed from the bike).
I did find that it was easier to use my meter with a couple of pieces of wire attached to the pins as opposed to trying to hold the probes to the pins while adjusting.
I used the wires and pins removed from an old computer 12 volt connector, they fit right on the TPS pins.
My Bike idles at just a tad over 1000 rpm and hasn't stalled on me once.
One thing about this forum though, yer gonna wanna do a lot of mods, almost lookin forward to winter this year LOL.
08-15-2009, 06:13 AM
#16
New Hawk Rider
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ventura Co. SoCAL
Posts: 258
Thanks for all the advice. I am not sure how much I want to dive into the mod area just yet. I like the idea of shortening the shifter throw I really think that may help out with it slipping from 1 - 2.
I am already trying to get a R/R unit off a 2008 R1 here from Craigslist but the guy did not know what an R/R unit is and is having problems finding it. I sent him a pic of his part. Hope he can find it.
I am already trying to get a R/R unit off a 2008 R1 here from Craigslist but the guy did not know what an R/R unit is and is having problems finding it. I sent him a pic of his part. Hope he can find it.
08-15-2009, 01:53 PM
#18
New Hawk Rider
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ventura Co. SoCAL
Posts: 258
I did the idle adjustment according to the service manual and it seems to help. I will keep an eye on that.
Here are a few quick shots of the new VTR beside my old 75 CB360T Cafe. These are shot from my phone so they are not the greatest quality.
Here are a few quick shots of the new VTR beside my old 75 CB360T Cafe. These are shot from my phone so they are not the greatest quality.
08-28-2009, 05:42 PM
#19
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: south nj (philly area)
Posts: 277
98 w/26 the only time i had a stalling problem was when the petcock went bad on me, but thats more than likely your problem. the bike should idle without stalling at 1000 rpm rock steady.idle mixture cleaning carbs and fresh gas is where id start.
08-28-2009, 06:06 PM
#20
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 3,451
It sounds like someone in your complex doesn't like motorcycles. Harleys with open pipes really **** people off to the point where they will take malicious action, especially when they fire it up at 6AM or come home at 2AM with the "Harley required" continuous revving.
I hope your bike is safe now. 15 years ago while living in a condo, I went to the carport and uncovered my BMW R100RS to find a neat 1 1/2" diameter hole in my tail light lens. I found out later that a neighbor had been flying a remote control plane and crashed it into my bike cover. He paid for the damage when I brought it to his attention.
Oh, and Welcome. Nice looking CB. Enjoy the torque on the SuperHawk.
I hope your bike is safe now. 15 years ago while living in a condo, I went to the carport and uncovered my BMW R100RS to find a neat 1 1/2" diameter hole in my tail light lens. I found out later that a neighbor had been flying a remote control plane and crashed it into my bike cover. He paid for the damage when I brought it to his attention.
Oh, and Welcome. Nice looking CB. Enjoy the torque on the SuperHawk.
Last edited by VTRsurfer; 08-28-2009 at 06:14 PM.
08-28-2009, 06:07 PM
#21
New Hawk Rider
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ventura Co. SoCAL
Posts: 258
Once I changed the idle up to 1100 RPM and swapped out the R/R with the R6 unit I have had zero issues with the bike.
Next on the list is a bit of grip glue, my grip is loose on the throttle and turns sometimes instead of the throttle. Other than that, she is purring like a kitten.
Next on the list is a bit of grip glue, my grip is loose on the throttle and turns sometimes instead of the throttle. Other than that, she is purring like a kitten.
08-28-2009, 07:03 PM
#22
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 111
It's a large displacement V-twin sport bike.
They stall at idle. Get used to it.
They stall at idle. Get used to it.
08-28-2009, 07:24 PM
#24
Member
Squid
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 32
First off, nice clean bike eersfanpilot. Second, I know this sounds simple, but check your fluid on your clutch. If its too old it doesnt hlp the shifting any. Bikes that old with so few miles on em often have had almost nothing done to them mechanically, including new fluids. I'm getting mine changed when I take my bike ('98 with only 4,800 when i bought it) down to get the new exhaust fabricated.
08-28-2009, 11:30 PM
#27
New Hawk Rider
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ventura Co. SoCAL
Posts: 258
Thanks guys. Good point about the fluids Notquite. I will check into that.
I am not concerned with an occasional stall, but 5-6 times when riding about 2 hours in the same day was a bit frustrating. Seems to be fine now after the little bit of work I have done so far though.
I am not concerned with an occasional stall, but 5-6 times when riding about 2 hours in the same day was a bit frustrating. Seems to be fine now after the little bit of work I have done so far though.
08-29-2009, 06:20 AM
#29
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 562
I hate not being able to rely on consistent operation, whether stalling at a standstill, or stalling in the rain, which my bike used to do before rerouting the tank breather hose.
Nice bikes, eersfanpilot!
Nice bikes, eersfanpilot!
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