When installing the new APE CCT's, does the engine have to be at top dead center?

 

Hell ya it needs to be at TDC. I hope the cam didn't spin on you when you removed the old CCT. that's what happened with me. If it did, you need to retime the engine according to the manual.

 

No, you saved me there thanks.

However, I’ve set the deflection at 1/4 inch as (seen in pic "a") per APE’s 3 limited lines of instructions. However, check out how much slack I have in pic "b". This has got to be too much?

The engine has been turned over and the chain goes tight but it looks at some points like it’s going to skip a tooth, plus, sometimes I hear a clicking sound that the other stock tensioner does'nt make.

Thanks again for your help!

 

I don't understand. It doesn't matter where the cam is as long as the chain is not moved. Swap in the CCT and adjust it down snug. Then follow the manufacturer's directions. Usually you'll turn it in on a running engine till the knock stops then (per manufacturer) either set it there or back it off a bit.

 

The manufacturer's directions say to snug it down till there's 1/4 - 3/8 deflection, which we've done at TDC. However, after doing so, there is a HUGE amount of slack where this is none with the stock CCT's.

I can't see how the cam chain would spin if you've just the CCT, unless you turned the engine over with no tension on the chain.

 

But it wouldn't matter where the timing was located. Whatever the deflection is doesn't change based on timing point.

 

Well in any case I have set the deflection to what their instructions say and look at the pictures yourself, I have way too much slack. If I tighten the APE CCT more to take up the slack, I will have less than 1/4" - 3/8" deflection.

Put it this way, on the other cam chain with the stick tensioner, there is virtually no slack or deflection. You can barely wiggle it with your fingers.

Something is wrong for sure.

 

when I installed the APEs
I first measured the slack with the stock tensioner.
(Like you show in the picture).
I set the APE tensiomer to the same as stock was.
Handcrank the engine and verify timing and slack.

After the engine is back together and running you can 'fine tune' the APE tensioner with-in about a 1/2 turn from making noise to quiet.
Fine tune adjustment is to tighten from noise to 'just' quiet or 'smooth'.

The APE directions are wrong for shawks.
Use stock measured slack as a starting point.

~Jeffers

 

There should be virtually no slack - just as it was with the original Auto CCTs. Be sure the crank and cams are positioned properly, back the lock nut way off on the APE CCT and finger tighten it as tight as you can - then back off one turn.

You may want to reveiw my post on this subject in a previous thread as to why I tighten it this way but when doing so there is no slack in the chain, as you seem to have in your photos above.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=588 ....

 

For many years, manual tensioners were a stock item and adjusting them was part of tuneup. As I remember, the generally provided instruction was to tighten them (with the engine running) until the knock stopped, then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn on the screw.

I realize this information may not be specifically helpful, but I'm hoping it will be generally helpful.

Do make sure you check adjustment every 6,000 miles or so. For me, not having to do this makes the stockers well worthwhile, even with their reported durability problems.

 

Now we're getting somewhere. Now everything makes sense! Thanks guys, I feel comfortable proceeding now.

This is the best forum I've ever been involved with. Honestly. The generosity, knowledge and maturity....

 

In case anyone is interested, or needs to know, I got a reply from APE regarding their crappy instructions: "1/4 inch total play in the cam chain." This is still looser than stock, which is barely budgable, but light years ahead of their floppy 1/4" deflection. We'll get her there and fine tuned by sound and feel with the engine running.

Now that we know whats going on I'm glad I have them for the piece of mind they bring. Sure they need to be checked/adjusted once in a while but it will be no big deal. With 40k and the original CCT's I was getting really nervous winding her out.

 

I think you'll be pleasently surprised to find out that the manual tensioners will rarely if ever need adjustment.
I keep listening for the cam chain to start making the noise the stock tensioners caused when they got loose. but with the APE tensioners, the chains have stayed quiet since the day I installed them.


~Jeffers

 

Right on