my carbs
06-14-2012, 12:12 PM
#1
Slicknick4209
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my carbs
Ok when I first bought this bike Guy said needed carbs cleaned. I'm not scared of carbs or any mechanical work for that matter I k ow I'm good. But I should have been more patient I asked on the forum how to remove the float valve seats but didn't wait for a reply was to anxious. Ahold while trying to remove the seat I scared it. I did however try to flatten and make it back to normal as much as possible. I belive I did a good Job. The problem was thar gas was coming out of my exhaust and I blew threw 2.5 gallons of gas in mins.petcock was torn so replaced it with a new one and cleaned the carbs. People on here told me it had to be a combination of petcock and float. So new petcock kit in tank let sit for couple days no problem. Rode it for about good two hours came home parked it Sunday night last night I kept smelling gas so I took tank off gas came out of petcock and lines twisted throttle while holdnig needle valve and of course wet inside and I could see gas just sitting there hanging out at the end of the needle valve seat. So question is should I try replacing the float valve or do you guys assume the seat is bad? If the seat is bad can it be replaced? Or flat out do I need new to me carbs. Plus at idle there is a faint popping all the time? Paired removed and tps at 501 only mods done to this bike. Thanks guys
06-14-2012, 03:41 PM
#2
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... I asked on the forum how to remove the float valve seats but didn't wait for a reply ... while trying to remove the seat I scared it. I did however try to flatten and make it back to normal as much as possible.... twisted throttle while holdnig needle valve and of course wet inside and I could see gas just sitting there hanging out at the end of the needle valve seat....
06-15-2012, 03:48 AM
#4
Slicknick4209
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That sucks but that's what I figured but beerhunter I damaged the float valve seat and tried to repair after sitting g for a couple day I smelled gas so took tank off and airbox lid held the slide open and could see gas just chilling the needle jet seat is what I was trying to say
06-21-2012, 07:27 AM
#6
Slicknick4209
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Ok so I read a thread about a Guy and his petcock LOL but yeah he couldn't get it to close mine brand new wouldn't either but yesterday tested it and it was fine so here's my question? Now don't think I'm an idiot guys just had a dumbass attack brain fart. So Putin g vacuum to the petcock I noticed my dumbass has it pointing down instead of to the side but not leaking gas and the vacumm isn't sucking gas so do you think this should be changed or is it all good? So I can barley hear it while I ride but stopped at idle it poouhs not a pop a poouh hope you guys understand the LOL but yeah only thing not stock is I removed pair and tps is at 501 ohms as usual thanks for the help
06-21-2012, 09:20 AM
#8
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I agree. It takes too much time to decode. Dispense with the ' LOL' stuff and insert more periods and spaces. You will get more help!
The vacuum line attaches to the BRASS nipple coming sideways off the petcock. The ALUMINUM port, which points down, is a vent for air pressure to push on one side of the diaphragm. When the engine is running, and thus supplying vacuum to the other side of the diaphragm, the fuel valve opens.
As for the 'poouh' action you describe, this is caused by excessive amounts of fuel being fed into the engine at low speed. Fix the float issue, as has been suggested before, and then the bike should run properly. Install a carb that has a good float valve seat AND a good float valve needle.
The vacuum line attaches to the BRASS nipple coming sideways off the petcock. The ALUMINUM port, which points down, is a vent for air pressure to push on one side of the diaphragm. When the engine is running, and thus supplying vacuum to the other side of the diaphragm, the fuel valve opens.
As for the 'poouh' action you describe, this is caused by excessive amounts of fuel being fed into the engine at low speed. Fix the float issue, as has been suggested before, and then the bike should run properly. Install a carb that has a good float valve seat AND a good float valve needle.
06-21-2012, 09:29 AM
#9
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Mine's not brass... mine's aluminum...
I was looking at the symmetry when I had the petcock nipple off as well. Couldn't see any reason why it wouldn't work pointed down, so I say you're doing a great test of that question.
I was looking at the symmetry when I had the petcock nipple off as well. Couldn't see any reason why it wouldn't work pointed down, so I say you're doing a great test of that question.
06-21-2012, 10:24 AM
#10
the boss
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the petcock should be fine the way it is.if it ends up being a problem,its a easy fix.
as far as the exhaust goes,lets just back track what you did.
you removed the pair system,did you flip the reeds and seal the hole in the tube.
did you seal the open hole in the air box that the pair system hooked up too.
did you block the line or put a new line on the carb where the pair system hooked up too.
how many turns out on the carb mixture screws.
in the air box,do you have the small little filters that goes in the corners.its not important for how it runs,but if there is no kinda filter there,it will introduce dirt and bugs into the carb system.
do you have stock exhaust on the bike,was it debaffled if its stock looking cans.
as far as the exhaust goes,lets just back track what you did.
you removed the pair system,did you flip the reeds and seal the hole in the tube.
did you seal the open hole in the air box that the pair system hooked up too.
did you block the line or put a new line on the carb where the pair system hooked up too.
how many turns out on the carb mixture screws.
in the air box,do you have the small little filters that goes in the corners.its not important for how it runs,but if there is no kinda filter there,it will introduce dirt and bugs into the carb system.
do you have stock exhaust on the bike,was it debaffled if its stock looking cans.
Last edited by saige; 06-21-2012 at 10:28 AM.
06-21-2012, 08:10 PM
#11
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I see now, the diaphragm cover plate was installed 90 degrees from the original location. So now his vacuum nipple is pointing down.
...and apparently mine is aluminum too. 
I had a different petcock pictured in mind. Thanks for the correction!
Slicknick, when you tried to remove the float seat, what area of the seat was damaged? Is the small opening unscathed, the part that mates with the rubber tip? Do you have any pictures of that seat?
I had a different petcock pictured in mind. Thanks for the correction!Slicknick, when you tried to remove the float seat, what area of the seat was damaged? Is the small opening unscathed, the part that mates with the rubber tip? Do you have any pictures of that seat?
06-22-2012, 08:12 AM
#12
Slicknick4209
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Yeah sorry guys I do all this on my phone. But yes I put my petcock on wrong but I don't think it will make a difference still shut the gas off and its a lot easier to get the hose off and on. Plus while it was running at my sync t I pulled off my block off hose and no gas was coming out so assuming its all good we'll see. And no I dont have a pic and yes I scared the spot your not supposed to but I thought I did an awesome job of repairing it. I've already been hooked up by some cool guy in Florida that has been helping me out the hole way. But yes I did everything to the t for the paired system removal and my step father owns a machine shop and is going to make me some plates for them. Have the breathers on the valve covers caped off at the moment. So while I was doing the sync I had the tank off airbox on but the top not screwed down. After I let it warm up I shut it down and wanted to see what was going on due to having the new to me rear Carb on there. So went to the rear one first lifted the slide no gas coming out of needle seat awesom. Held slide open twisted the throttle no gas all dry great!!! Then went to the front one lifted the slide but wasn't expecting anything due to not having any problems with the front so didn't pay 100% attention. When I lifted the slide there was gas and the tip of the slide with the two hole was a little wet so I let go and did it again but got nothing so not sure. So I hooked up my home made Carb sync tool and continued what I was doing. While synchronizing I got them the best I could (was in a hurry already late picking up this female for our first meet only transportation ) but it was even at idle and at a steady rpms. But when I hit the throttle goes way different. Seems to run really good. Ut
06-22-2012, 08:29 AM
#13
Slicknick4209
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Sorry phone sucks but has the idle poof and little pops. But really I don't k ow what this bike runs like running right never rode it before having to tear it apart. So compaired to a bike that is running good and right mine might be running like ****. The bike is completely stock only thing out of place that I seen was the the tps had Phillips head bolt. But this could have been due to the previous owner not knowing what he was doing and trying to do a few thing to figure out why the gas was coming out of the exhaust. But yeah where I'm at. Got this bike for $1500 its spotless and completely stock with 16000 miles bet he would be upset if he knew it was a $40 part.
06-22-2012, 06:54 PM
#14
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OK, it looks like you have installed a replacement carb in the rear and synched it up with the front carb. Did you adjust the TPS on the replacement carb? I'm not so sure about doing a carb synch with the airbox screws loose. That might give false readings.
I would simply ride the bike at this point, put at least two tanks of gas through and see if the popping goes away. Check mileage and note power delivery at various throttle openings. Get a good feel for what the engine is really doing.
Is your engine oil contaminated with fuel?
I would simply ride the bike at this point, put at least two tanks of gas through and see if the popping goes away. Check mileage and note power delivery at various throttle openings. Get a good feel for what the engine is really doing.
Is your engine oil contaminated with fuel?
06-22-2012, 08:25 PM
#15
Slicknick4209
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Not 100% sure on the oil being contaminated or not but its fresh oil still at the same level and yes adjusted tps to 501 ohms and yes replacement Carb in the rear . I'm gonna get on it sometime this weekend I hope I have my kid everyweekend have every other Sunday off. I got some sea foam for it to forgot I had it. How many miles should a take get me. Plus I want to check that fro t slide again.
06-22-2012, 08:43 PM
#16
the boss
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it makes sense what beerhunter said,did you do the sync with everything together and airbox sealed,that will give false sync.
take a peak and make sure the carbs are pushed all the way down into the boot too.
only put max,4 ounces of seafoam with a full tank,dont put the whole can.it will cause problems.
take a peak and make sure the carbs are pushed all the way down into the boot too.
only put max,4 ounces of seafoam with a full tank,dont put the whole can.it will cause problems.
06-23-2012, 07:07 AM
#17
Slicknick4209
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Awesome glad I forgot to put the seafoam in. And are that's what I thought I must have read the forum wrong or something cause I thought it said you can do it with it off but this time had the airbox on but not sealed.now ill do the sync with it sealed up thanks guys I was wondering why it didnt seem right to me. You guys are awesome
06-23-2012, 07:07 AM
#18
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100 miles from full to reserve light on would be the very least you should expect. For my bike I will not be happy if the light comes on below 115 miles. I try to get 130 as a good indication of proper carburetion. This includes lots of heavy throttle usage.
In what condition is your battery and charging system? How many turns out on the fuel screws?
In what condition is your battery and charging system? How many turns out on the fuel screws?
06-23-2012, 10:10 AM
#19
Slicknick4209
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Battery is no good gonna drain it today and redo the acid the r/r must be working cause when I charge the battery it runs until I shut it off. When my other one went bad it sucked all the power outta the battery then my bike died. My fuel screws are set at 2.25 and 2.5. I need to take it back apart and check my front slide. The rear Carb seems to be great. Figures now the front one has to give me problems. Plus I want to make sure is not leaking any more and do another oil change just in case.
06-23-2012, 02:11 PM
#22
Slicknick4209
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Ok it sucks my bike has been siting a couple of days cause the gas the would answer this question is done evaporated. So I was curious so I pulled my tank. When I pull the front Carb hose off the tankgas came out normal. But when I pulled the rear hose no gas. So I turned the bowl screws gas came out both carbs. Lifted both slides dry both carbs. And just for ***** and giggles I blew in both Carb hoses no gas out of any holes. ????
06-23-2012, 05:17 PM
#23
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Judging from previous posts I would guess that you are seeing gas flowing up past the jet needle??
06-24-2012, 02:36 PM
#25
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I see nothing unusual about what you have described. Everything appears to be as it should if only a small dribble comes out when removing the first hose.
I prefer to purge the lines by draining the float bowls before removing the tank hoses. It helps to keep from spilling gas. I REALLY do not like getting gasoline on my skin and breathing the heavy vapors.
I prefer to purge the lines by draining the float bowls before removing the tank hoses. It helps to keep from spilling gas. I REALLY do not like getting gasoline on my skin and breathing the heavy vapors.
06-25-2012, 04:28 AM
#26
Slicknick4209
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Ok I've noticed that while maintaining a constant speed it feels like its cutting in and out. Idle fluctuates up and down and this morning when I pulled into my parking spot it was. Idleing at 2000
06-25-2012, 05:46 AM
#27
the boss
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the bikes idle should be around 1150-1250 give or take a little each way.
check the slack in your chain,it can make the bike feel its chugging and kicking,oil and tighten the chain up to specs.see if that helps a little.
did you sync the carbs with the bike at this idle,if so,once idle is set,re-sync
check the slack in your chain,it can make the bike feel its chugging and kicking,oil and tighten the chain up to specs.see if that helps a little.
did you sync the carbs with the bike at this idle,if so,once idle is set,re-sync
06-25-2012, 07:23 AM
#28
Slicknick4209
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Had my idle set at 1200 but this morning when I parked was up to 2000 and should I details baffle my exhaust I hate that its so quite and can't afford slip ins right now. If I do what jets should I run
And when I stop and look at my rpms they fluctuate doesn't stay steady.
And when I stop and look at my rpms they fluctuate doesn't stay steady.
06-25-2012, 07:38 AM
#29
the boss
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i wouldnt worry about the de-baffle yet.that will require a carb mod at the least.
just to be sure,no leaks,right?
the fluctuating is a odd one,is your choke all the way in or stuck.does it work properly.
your joint tube on the front cylinder for the sync is capped off?
just to be sure,no leaks,right?
the fluctuating is a odd one,is your choke all the way in or stuck.does it work properly.
your joint tube on the front cylinder for the sync is capped off?
