Opi

I was riding down a pretty busy 3 lane road (one way) in the left lane doing about 55 (limits 45) and all of the sudden EVERYTHING shut down on me. I turned the key on and off, hit the kill switch and starter, got nothing. Now I had to get across 2 more lanes of traffic coasting and very quickly coming to a stop. I made it into the grass and my buddy came later. We tried to jump it, got nothing. We put it in his truck and brought it back to my house where it sits outside now. Anyone have any ideas what this could be?

Scott V

Do you have juice???? How about checking the side stand switch?

icebud

Hummm, sound like the current regulator/rectifier failure, this is a well know problem on the VTR

It make me the same thing as you... twice!! But now I solve the problem with a R1 regulator

Check over the forum, there's a lot of info about this, as well as some solution to solve this problem.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/viewt...ight=regulator

https://www.superhawkforum.com/viewt...ight=rectifier

Cheers and GL

CNI Dawg

These guys have a better replacement RR
http://www.electrosport.com
These are supposed to be the best available.

I have a brand new one I bought but never installed.
My problem turned out to be a bad battery NOT my stock RR

I paid $75 for it + shipping
Sell it to you for $75 WITH shipping included
They retail for around $100 + shipping

Loco

If your bike has NO power whatsoever you can rule out the sidestand switch. I'm sure you already did this, but check your battery connections. The thing is though, your bike can run without battery power, so I don't think it's your battery. There are a few kill points between your battery and your motor, and I would check all of these in sequence. I'm not an expert with electronics but I know of at least

1) the fuse box
2) the rectifier/regulator and CPU/ECU
3) the ignition switch (keyed)
4) the ignition coils
5) spark plug leads
6) the plastic junction clips on the wiring harness

Again, does your bike have "zero power" or just "won't run" ?

AKohler996

If your battery has a broken connection inside, your bike will not run, start, etc.
You can try to check the voltage with a voltmeter, you should get about 12.8 volts.
Now try to turn the ignition key to the ON position. If the battery voltage drops below 12.0 volts immediately, replace the battery.
Of course check all the fuses first too.

If you need a battery and want to run to Temple, I may be able to help you out. I work for Yuasa Battery. Just give me enough notice ... I have to charge it first.

Alan
1-866-431-4784 ext. 118

superbling

If you lose ALL electrics, the very first thing to check is the main fuse located on the left side of the rear subframe behind the cowling. If blown, you'll need to determine why it blew although I had one go on an old bike and never blew another one; maybe it was original and just burned out (dunno').

CNI Dawg

If you replace your battery consider the next size up.
I replaced mine with a Yuasa YTZ14S.
It fits perfectly and provides more cold cranking power & Amp.Hr.
It is 8 ounces heavier than the stock YTZ12s
________________________________________________
Battery Family: YTZ Factory Activated, Maintenance Free
Battery Type: YTZ14S
Voltage: 12
Capacity (Amp. Hrs.): 11.2
Dimensions: 6" x 3 7/16" x 4 3/8"
Weight: 8.6 lbs.
Metric Dimensions: 150mm x 87mm x 110mm
Metric Weight: 3.9 kg
Polarity:
Acid Volume: N/A
Charging Current (Amps.): 1.1
C.C.A.: 230
_________________________________________________
Battery Family: YTZ Factory Activated, Maintenance Free
Battery Type: YTZ12S

Voltage: 12
Capacity (Amp. Hrs.): 11
Dimensions: 6" x 3 7/16" x 4 3/8"
Weight: 8.1 lbs.
Metric Dimensions: 150mm x 87mm x 110mm
Metric Weight: 3.7 kg
Polarity:
Acid Volume: N/A
Charging Current (Amps.): 1.1
C.C.A.: 210
_________________________
http://www.yuasabattery.com/yuasa05/battery_search.asp

Opi

ill check that fuse in the rear.

i have zero power, when i turn the key to on i get nothing. someone on another board mentioned the r/r i guess i have to look into that too

AKohler996

1998 took the YTX12-BS
you can use the YTZ14S (or YTZ12S) in the 1998 .... it is shorter in height.
I am not sure if you have to space it up, I have not put in the one that I have sitting in my desk yet.
The YTX12-BS in my bike is almost new.

Alan

superhawk22

You didn't mention and I don't know if you were looking or not but when my r/r went bad the gauges went wacky before it died. The tach would bounce the lights flickered and the speedo was way out of whack. I was able to jump it and ride home though.

icebud

Maybe the R/R failure could have different symptoms because for my two failures [ didn't know after the first failure to not replace the stock VTR R/R by another one ] thus the two time, it was almost the same thing as Opi, I was running on the Highway and suddenly everything shut down, no warning, no wacky, nothing!!

Both time the main fuse of the bike under the seat ( 30 amps if I remember well ) have blow out also! So, check your fuses, check the battery and if both seem to be OK, then I think you should take a look on the R/R.

And don't do the same error as me the first time!! Don't replace it with another Honda unit. I think they have improve the new version but some Yamaha or Suzuki used unit can be really more cheaper and far away better, IMO.

Cheers

Opi

went to the local bike shop, they said they dont carry electrical parts anymore....


im so damn tired of broken vehicles, im fixing this and blowing it out the door

jschmidt

Another vote for R/R failure leading to main fuse failure. Often, you can tell the R/R is bad just by looking at it. The potting compound will be bubbled or melted.

I haven't heard of anyone who had a failure of the latest (finned) version, although that shouldn't be considered definitive.

AKohler996

what local bike shop ? the one that you bought it from ?
Go to a Honda dealer, they have to have the parts (unless it is over 25 years old). Blackman's is still a Honda dealer right ?

icebud

But did you find what was your exact problem??

icebud

If you have found that it was your R/R the problem, don't ask to your dealer for this!!

Check this out, this is the mod I've perform after my second R/R failure:

http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/...g_replace.html

And for the part, check here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/fzr60...spagenameZWD1V

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2003-...spagenameZWDVW

For me it worked very well and take about 30min to perform! And now, I'm no more thinking about this R/R problem...

Cheers

Loco

Who woulda guessed.. I have this part for sale if you can't find it anywhere else. The Superhawk model R/R not Yamaha.