Leakdown test
#1
Leakdown test
I've never done one. Need to on my 98 as it's burning mucho oil. Checked both breathers, not in airbox, not in coolant. Doesn't smoke at idle and following rider doesn't notice anything on either accel or decel. Loosing maybe a quart per 1000 miles (not that good) and my experience tells me it needs to lose more than this to be really noticable by following rider.
Anyways, figured I'd learn all about leak-down testing. I have a compressor and I chanced my luck on the bargain basement Harbor Freight tester, hopefully it'll work for my basic needs, else I'll return it.
Anyone know of any MC specific URLs or other documents detailing how to perform one. Even better any VTR owners have tips or docs to share, perhaps model specific pitfalls, things to avoid.
As I said, never done one before. I guess interpreting where the leak is if there is one is part of the challenge, might be one of those more art than science deals that I tend to hate.
Thanks!
Anyways, figured I'd learn all about leak-down testing. I have a compressor and I chanced my luck on the bargain basement Harbor Freight tester, hopefully it'll work for my basic needs, else I'll return it.
Anyone know of any MC specific URLs or other documents detailing how to perform one. Even better any VTR owners have tips or docs to share, perhaps model specific pitfalls, things to avoid.
As I said, never done one before. I guess interpreting where the leak is if there is one is part of the challenge, might be one of those more art than science deals that I tend to hate.
Thanks!
Last edited by crazybrit; 01-25-2008 at 11:31 AM.
#3
About 22000. Oil, castrol dino 20w50 but it's been happening since I got it at 8000 and many diff styles of oil since then. Anyways reluctant to start an oil thread. Mostly just looking for tips on leak down.
Tony
Tony
Last edited by crazybrit; 12-14-2007 at 05:00 PM.
#5
I know this is what I need to do. I don't mean to be a pompous ***, but did you read the initial post???
I'm looking for some MC specific and even better VTR specific threads/webpages/etc on performing a leakdown test.
#6
I always check by compression check. Do one, write down the results...which should be low if you are burning oil....then squirt a tablespoon or so of oil into the plug holes, give it a crank or two, and check again. If it gets a lot better, it's the rings. If not...the valves/guides.
#7
I've never done one. Need to on my 98 as it's burning mucho oil. Checked both breathers, not in airbox, not in coolant. Doesn't smoke at idle and following rider doesn't notice anything on either accel or decel. Loosing maybe a quart per 1000 miles (not that good) and my experience tells me it needs to lose more than this to be really noticable by following rider.
Anyways, figured I'd learn all about leak-down testing. I have a compressor and I chanced my luck on the bargain basement Harbor Freight tester, hopefully it'll work for my basic needs, else I'll return it.
Anyone know of any MC specific URLs or other documents detailing how to perform one. Even better any VTR owners have tips or docs to share, perhaps model specific pitfalls, things to avoid.
As I said, never done one before. I guess interpreting where the leak is if there is one is part of the challenge, might be one of those more art than science deals that I tend to hate.
Thanks!
Anyways, figured I'd learn all about leak-down testing. I have a compressor and I chanced my luck on the bargain basement Harbor Freight tester, hopefully it'll work for my basic needs, else I'll return it.
Anyone know of any MC specific URLs or other documents detailing how to perform one. Even better any VTR owners have tips or docs to share, perhaps model specific pitfalls, things to avoid.
As I said, never done one before. I guess interpreting where the leak is if there is one is part of the challenge, might be one of those more art than science deals that I tend to hate.
Thanks!
Whereas a proper LDT is best, you can do all of that with an old hollowed out sparkplug with a air nipple welded to it; or create your own plug hole adapter this way. A 2-gauge unit checks differential pressure, thats why it has 2 gages. Line pressure will be higher than the cylinder pressure due to the blowing by the rings, valves and/or a bad head gasket.
When testing an engine, make sure that this test is done right after the engine has been shut down. This will ensure that the cylinders are lubricated, and that all the seals and rings are seated correctly. Follow the LDT's instructions or set the inlet pressure to +90 psi with the built in regulator. The lower gage should not read below 75 psi. Preferred is around 70 to 72 psi and there should no more than 10% difference from cylinder to cylinder (same as with a compression tester, which I presume you already did; both wet and dry). A good engine should not show much over 10~15% leakage, though some prefer less than 5% or even 3% for race engines. Last time I checked my VTR at about 30,000 hard miles (I have used Mobil 1 since wear-in) I had less than 5% leakage and approximately the same differential differential between cyclinders. When I sold my Baby Hawk Gt (NT650) it had less than 5% at 65,000 miles! You gotta love Hondas.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester
http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
http://www.engineersedge.com/power_t...sion_check.htm
http://www.globalair.com/discussions...le.asp?msgID=3
#8
Have you considered doing a leakdown test? worth a thought
ok, just kidding, anyway, I find these guys writes ups usually useful - good starting point at least
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ho...t_motorcycles/
ok, just kidding, anyway, I find these guys writes ups usually useful - good starting point at least
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ho...t_motorcycles/
#9
Have you considered doing a leakdown test? worth a thought
ok, just kidding, anyway, I find these guys writes ups usually useful - good starting point at least
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ho...t_motorcycles/
ok, just kidding, anyway, I find these guys writes ups usually useful - good starting point at least
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ho...t_motorcycles/
I have a compression gauge but whats is the point of doing one if you also have the LD tester? Or is it just to avoid doing the LD test if compression is good? What is good compression for the VTR?
I read the bit about testing, then spraying 2 ts oil and retesting. Does the bike have to be warm for this also?
#11
Oi Mate!
Your cup runneth over! Redman is on the mark. Simple is good. The rest tells you "how much"
The dry/oil method is definitive as to where.
Now for some reciprocal advice, What do you know about GS500 carbs?
Your cup runneth over! Redman is on the mark. Simple is good. The rest tells you "how much"
The dry/oil method is definitive as to where.
Now for some reciprocal advice, What do you know about GS500 carbs?
#12
Compression tests are a starting point and ONLY to determine if is the rings. For more than that you must do a LDT, or just tear down the engine and check all tolerances and for signs of wear...
I worked on a GS500 years ago but remember nothing about it other than not wanting to touch one again...
#13
So what is expected compression? Obviously diff between both cylinders is useful info also, but I assumed the actual 'normal' value was useful also.
#14
As stated in the Honda VTR1000f service manual, on page 8-3, 164 psi @350rpm. Method is listed above the spec. do a search here for "service manual on line" or ask soma deese guys for instructions to download.
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