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Lazy Superhawk

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Old 05-25-2007, 04:04 AM
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Unhappy Lazy Superhawk

I recently changed the jets in my bike. Main, Pilot, and needle clip position. After reassembly, the bike is not running right. It is very lazy. It will only pull 6500 rpm at WOT. It really does not want to idle. The bike has never done this, so I must of done something during reassembly.

Since I cleaned and oiled my K&N filter prior to reassembly, I thought I over oiled it and was starving the bike for air. I recleaned the filter and applied less oil. No change. I removed the filter from the bike. No change.

So, I am ready to tear into the bike again. I am planning to check the vacuum line at the petcock, even though I am pretty sure it is right. I am going to check the slide diaphragms for tears and proper installation. I will also check my plugs.

Any other suggestions?
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Old 05-25-2007, 04:34 AM
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well you got that right, what jets you use and what is the bike config, exhaust ?
Most people don't touch the pilot jet, it usually spells like trouble, move the needle instead, how much idle screw turns you gave ??
The carbs may leak vacuum trough their boots as well. The other snag is definitely the diaphragms, they are hard to put back on right.
Good luck
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Old 05-25-2007, 06:51 AM
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After having a guy who has no idea how to tune super hawks, dyno tune the bike I am undoing all his work.

He put a 190 main jet in the front carb, a 192 in the rear, #50 pilot Jets, and the needles third position down.

Bike was running like crap below 5K.

So, I am putting the bike to the recommended Factory Pro settings. I put a 180 up front, a 182 in the rear, a #50 pilot jet, needle clips fourth position down, and the fuels screws at 2 turns out.

I also have a K&N filter and two brothers slip-ons.
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Old 05-25-2007, 10:05 AM
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Sounds like a good plan, but I think that the bike should run with these settings if he gave at least 2 idle screw turns, the bike should have a bad cruise unless the needle don't seat and fuel drips in the throat. For the mains, since you are running a filter and exhaust, I think that 185 front 190 rear would work best.
My guess is that he messed something up putting stuff back together.
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Old 05-25-2007, 10:08 AM
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With only slip-ons you should probably be running the stock #45 pilot or visit the dealer for a #48.

Remember, Dynojet and Factory use different sizing for their mains so don't use DJ numbers on a Factory kit.
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Old 05-26-2007, 08:29 AM
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Well I pulled the carbs. The slides opened and closed with no resistance. So, I think the diaphrams were out of place. I will fix it and try that. Any other suggestions?
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Old 05-28-2007, 07:03 PM
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Make sure they're not pinched or torn. Replacing them is pretty much the only solution unless you can find some super duper flexible adhesive to repair it.
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Old 05-28-2007, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by clogee
After having a guy who has no idea how to tune super hawks, dyno tune the bike I am undoing all his work.

He put a 190 main jet in the front carb, a 192 in the rear, #50 pilot Jets, and the needles third position down.

Bike was running like crap below 5K.

So, I am putting the bike to the recommended Factory Pro settings. I put a 180 up front, a 182 in the rear, a #50 pilot jet, needle clips fourth position down, and the fuels screws at 2 turns out.

I also have a K&N filter and two brothers slip-ons.
Hi, I think you need to adjust your fuel screw at 2.75 turn because i run 180f-182r, 50 pilot jet 2.25, needle at 3 rd clip, and after dyno w/103 hb, 65fb, they suggest to move down 1 clip and 1/2 turn on fuels crew to take care of some hesitation, a little lean on gas. Cheer
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Old 05-30-2007, 03:09 PM
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Well it was definetly the diaphragms. All is good now.

To everybodies point about the carb settings, you are right. I still need to adjust the pilot screws to work out the idle.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-30-2007, 07:05 PM
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good to hear enjoy
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