Just replaced CCT, now bike runs like crap??
#31
If faulty.. it can:
Not open, or open all the way.
Leak vacuum to atmosphere causing a lean condition.
Leak vacuum causing raw fuel to be drawn into the vac ports on the head (so that making unmetered fuel getting in to the intake)
Fuel leaking to the ground (you'd see --smell that one)
Use a vac source like a mity vac tool, and apply a vacuum to the petcock port.. it should hold steady.. if it drops or bleeds off you have a problem, also check for fuel flow when you have a vacuum on the petcock port.
#33
What a humbling and time consuming experience this has turned out to be. I followed the posted instructions to a T and looks like the cam did jump a tooth - perhaps 2. These are the best pics my camera will take - I know it is hard to see but its the cam on the right (intake I believe) that is further clockwise a tooth or 2 compared to the cam on the right.
I'm going to read through the instructions to see if there is anything I can do to remedy this situation - feel free to chime in. Thanks.
I'm going to read through the instructions to see if there is anything I can do to remedy this situation - feel free to chime in. Thanks.
#35
#36
I'm doing something wrong - I removed the bridge, loosened the manual CCT all the way back out and I cant seem to get enough slack in the timing chain all the way around the sprocket to reset the cam.
#37
Take the spark plug out should release some pressure in the cylinder. I think i spun mine with it out and in neutral. Are you in gear?
#41
Sounds like you definitely have slack in the chain under the crank gear. Very easy to do when swapping out CCT's. Do whatever you need to do to get the cam timing aligned, by having it in neutral, and the spark plug out, but MAKE SURE you then double check your crank timing after the cam timing looks right. Then when you do tighten the cam chain tensioner, make sure you turn over the motor through multiple strokes by hand to makes sure you don't have and more slack trapped below the crank gear.
The safest way to do this, and easiest to manipulate cam timing, which I had to do anyway since i had to pull cams for valve adjustment this summer, is to do as the manual states and unbolt the the cam gears from the cams. Then you can mount the gears in the cam chain and rotating on the the end of the cams (just not bolted directly to them), and not risk any contact with valve to piston while trying to get timing just right. Just do one cylinder at a time, so you have a known reference.
-R
The safest way to do this, and easiest to manipulate cam timing, which I had to do anyway since i had to pull cams for valve adjustment this summer, is to do as the manual states and unbolt the the cam gears from the cams. Then you can mount the gears in the cam chain and rotating on the the end of the cams (just not bolted directly to them), and not risk any contact with valve to piston while trying to get timing just right. Just do one cylinder at a time, so you have a known reference.
-R
#44
#47
I would try to just unbolt the one closest to the CCT first. Keeping all of the slack out of the non CCT side ensures that you keep timing. Even if you take the cams all of the way off you can re-set it with this process.
#49
I had to remove my cams when I needed to reset the timing, its easier than spinning the crank and having to recheck the crank timing. Just put them back in so they are timed, the mark's will not line up perfectly with the head but they should've extremely close.
#50
Guys, if the cam jumps time, does it advance or retard? If it advances, isn't this where his running condition is coming from? If the cam is advanced but idles, but doesn't run worth a damn with throttle, would it be because the TPS is also advancing the ignition? You know what I'm gettin' at?
#51
Either way it doesn't matter, its still out of time with the crank and other cam, giving him this condition.
Timing advancing or retarding is achieved by changing the degrees before TDC that spark is provided, not the actual timing of the engine. You can't position the cams however you want and make up for it by advancing ignition.
Timing advancing or retarding is achieved by changing the degrees before TDC that spark is provided, not the actual timing of the engine. You can't position the cams however you want and make up for it by advancing ignition.
#52
I just tried to fart around with this again and I can get to 3 out of 4 cam bolts easy enough its just the forth one (of course on the intake cam - the one that needs to move one tooth) is going to be a reach to get to. Taking it off is one thing, lining it up and putting it back without dropping the bolt in the casing is another.
I dont know, going to think it over again before I start removing cam gear. Much more of a project than I wanted to get into that is for sure.(Too bad it isnt gear driving like my VFR was!)
I dont know, going to think it over again before I start removing cam gear. Much more of a project than I wanted to get into that is for sure.(Too bad it isnt gear driving like my VFR was!)
#53
I just tried to fart around with this again and I can get to 3 out of 4 cam bolts easy enough its just the forth one (of course on the intake cam - the one that needs to move one tooth) is going to be a reach to get to. Taking it off is one thing, lining it up and putting it back without dropping the bolt in the casing is another.
I dont know, going to think it over again before I start removing cam gear. Much more of a project than I wanted to get into that is for sure.(Too bad it isnt gear driving like my VFR was!)
I dont know, going to think it over again before I start removing cam gear. Much more of a project than I wanted to get into that is for sure.(Too bad it isnt gear driving like my VFR was!)
#55
Dont remove the sprockets. Remove the covers that hold the cams in place and the entire cam and sprocket easily moves. You only need to remove one cam to move the chain.
I second the rag idea. I dropped the chain guide bolt into my rear head when I did my ccts, that was a HUGE pain in the *** that involved dropping the oil pan and getting lucky with a magnet stuck up into the engine.
I second the rag idea. I dropped the chain guide bolt into my rear head when I did my ccts, that was a HUGE pain in the *** that involved dropping the oil pan and getting lucky with a magnet stuck up into the engine.
#57
UPDATE: Okay zipped tied exhaust valve (just in case) removed cam bolts, moved intake cam one tooth and reinstalled. Put cam retainer on, cam chain guide, reinstalled cct, (bike in neutral - will not go into gear -any gear at this point???) and checked timing. Found RT rotating the crank - dead nuts on!!
Rotated crank 450 degrees (1 1/4 turn counterclock wise) NO CLICKs NO FUNNY NOISES and found TDC on front "FT" mark - still one tooth off.
Could it have jumped 2 teeth to begin with earlier in the week and I only thought it needed one? Maybe, so I'll repeat the steps tomorrow and do it all again. Beerthirty done for the day!
Again THANK YOU guys for all your support I feel like youre in the garage with me! Update tomorrow....
Rotated crank 450 degrees (1 1/4 turn counterclock wise) NO CLICKs NO FUNNY NOISES and found TDC on front "FT" mark - still one tooth off.
Could it have jumped 2 teeth to begin with earlier in the week and I only thought it needed one? Maybe, so I'll repeat the steps tomorrow and do it all again. Beerthirty done for the day!
Again THANK YOU guys for all your support I feel like youre in the garage with me! Update tomorrow....
#59
its good to see you almost there.
i had the same problem when i did mine.mine was 2 teeth off.
i was able to loosen chain,i did things super turtle slow to not move anything else,rotated 2 back.and ran like charm.
good luck,and have a beer for me.
i had the same problem when i did mine.mine was 2 teeth off.
i was able to loosen chain,i did things super turtle slow to not move anything else,rotated 2 back.and ran like charm.
good luck,and have a beer for me.