Evidently the car tries to keep things at a higher voltage than the bike, and is capable of churning out more wattage that a bike rectifier can shunt off. Expensive stuff goes poof very quickly. Everyone else probably knew this, but for that one guy or gal out there who didn't, don't let it happen to you!

Now then, the shop is also going to replace my stator. Which leads me to an interesting question: if the stator is bad, will the bike still run off the battery? If the stator is bad but the battery is so flat that the bike won't turn over, would you expect the bike to bump start and ride fine for another ~30 minutes?

If I've got it right, the second scenario happened to me. Close to home on that ride I noticed that when my blinker clicked my tach went dead, probably the dying gasps of an exhausted battery?

I just want to make sure my mental model of the scenario is actually the right one. It's an expensive lesson, I want to learn it right!

 

Starting the car while connected is the riskiest jump.
Running isnt that much of a risk as theres no surge.

Dont replace your stator until you check it.
Classic bike shop rip off.
"dude, your stators fried, its 350 bucks and we have one in parts"
how many suckers just go " oK ..."
check it and buy what ever let smoke out.

"once you let out the smoke ... cant put the smoke back in"

 

I've jump started a bike with a car with no problems.

 

has the r/r ever been replaced?

 

Done it twice when I had no other choice. Crossed fingers both times but had no issues.

 

you can jump start a bike with a car as long as the car is not running. no problems.....

 

No. And it definitely had some charging issues, I had to keep charging the battery in order to get the bike to work. The R/R was identified as bad and is being replaced as well.

I'll have them save the old part. The guy said it was pretty obvious that the wiring leading to the stator had burned out. We'll see how obvious "obvious" is.

Sort of between a rock and a hard place in terms of the caution I exercise, I have a week of vacation scheduled next week to go for a trip on the thing.

 

Yes, that was the thing I was trying to warn against, use of a running car.

 

Car off. Just touch the positive, start the bike, and remove the cable asap.

Many times.....my old ZX7R's switch was so slight when going to hazard lights....I admittedly ran the battery down many times...

 

+1 ... it does turn the starter pretty fast!!!

Although I havent had to do this since I bought a battery tender.

J.

 

running the car doent hurt, its starting the car while it connected that produces the amperage surge.
Or, revving the engine of course.

 

I've jumped hundreds of vehicles from 24volt parallel fire trucks to numerous bikes and quads off running cars. Never had any problems except when people can't figure out that you do indeed need to hold the rpm's at about 1500 for the alternator to kick in and push some juice over to the dead vehicle.

You're problem sir definitely sounds like a bad R/R which is incapable of reducing the power to a safe level. That in turn fries the battery and if left alone long enough the headlight and other electronics. I would replace the battery and R/R first, then see how the stator is. I imagine it is quite possible it was fried as well from the untamed electricity circulating the bike, but rule out the obvious first, then make your decision on dropping serious coin.

 

Careful. Someone can read your post as a blanket statement.

Not necessarily true. It is on older non-ecu controlled cars...but you are also assuming that the alternator is good.

I can't give you a list....but there are cars that when running and you connect the other battery....the ecu will see a load and increase the revs on the engine, causing the alternator to increase it's amperage which can and will fry your trust steed.

12VDC Battery to 12VDC Battery is always safe when the car is turned off. Removing the cable asap is to protect the car from the bike surging in the case the R/R on the bike is faulty. Removing the cable when the car is off will also protect the lower amp rated battery from the higher amp rated battery.

DISCLAIMER: Hybrids. I have no experience and am ignorant of working on them, so I wouldn't jump from a Hybrid, unless you know how their battery system works.

Maybe someone with some knowledge of their electrical system will add to the thread.

 

Not necessarily true.
Your car and bike will both charge your 12V at 13-14V.

It's the current that will fry the bike if the alternator on the car is faulty or left connected to the bike for too long.

The Amp rating on the car is much higher than the amp rating on the bike.

Technical Explanation in a Nutshell
(PIE => Power = Current X Voltage)
Watts = Amps x Voltage. SO: High Watts = High Heat.
(V=IR => Voltage = Current x Resistance)

SO.....comparing the car to the bike....
Both have the same Voltage, Bike has less Resistance = Higher Current.

The electrical system on the bike isn't rated for the Higher current. Therefore, bad things man.

 

Yea almost forgot about all the overcomplex **** they make for cars these days.
Engine can rev itself to control idle speed. And the Alternators if they are junk will allow the surge. Not the most common situation but it happens.
I personally have and preferr carbureted cars that run better and get better milage than the new crap anyway, so its easy for me to forget about what all the other poor peeples out there in consumer-land are forced to drive . LOL

Hey, they will never turn off my vehicle with a satellite signal !

 

Or track your every movement. Sending you tickets for speeding. Don't laugh....it's coming.

My friend drove through AZ....got a letter a week later. Picture of him driving with a computer printout that he was doing 7mph (POSSIBLY 11?) over the speed limit.

...so far that's not allowed in CA. ....so far.

 

That's odd, since the cameras only trigger at 11mph over.

 

Maybe I remember the number wrong...thought it was just 7mph over. I know it wasn't much.

Regardless, those and the redlight cameras...just wrong.

One has a right to face their accuser. Wonder if the Officers know it's putting them out of work, similar to self-checkout lanes???

What's next? Satellite cameras sending you a ticket for making an illegal u-turn???

 

I boosted my numerous bikes with a car sometimes running, sometimes not.
In your case, I figure that the stator was possibly grounded, the huge amp supply took the easiest route and burned everything down.

 

Every time I read the title of this thread I get the image of a car attempting to jump over a motorcycle on a ramp and ending up crushing it...

 

My bike crapped out on my the other day on my way to a sporting event. It was running fine, so I turned it off because it was hot. I went to start it back up, and the battery was dead. I had no alternative to jump it; so I hooked it to my girlfriends SUV, and I clamped the positve down, and had her take the car up to 2000rpms, and touched the black and started it just fine. My battery is the original that came with the bike, so its 11 years old. I am thinking I should buy a new one..

 

You got lucky. No need to rev the car....not like jumping another car. You can easily fry your R/R.

Also lucky your battery lasted 11 years.

 

It needed to get reved, because it didn't have enough juice just idling!

I am lucky my battery has lasted that long. But, its going to be replaced very shortly; before anything else happens!