EngineNoO9

did this since I heard it was better and didn't bother to research which I know feel like a ******* retard about... found this:

"If silicone is introduced into an older brake system, the silicone will latch unto the sludge generated by gradual component deterioration and create a gelatin like goop which will attract more crud and eventually plug up metering orifices or cause pistons to stick. If you have already changed to DOT 5, don't compound your initial mistake and change back. Silicone is very tenacious stuff and you will never get it all out of your system. Just change the fluid regularly. For those who race using silicone fluid, I recommend that you crack the bleed screws before each racing session to insure that there is no water in the calipers. "


this was after I noticed that the clutch mc was full of that gell type stuff at the top of the mc... so uh... what do I do now? I have ss lines in the front but clutch and rear are rubber... should I quick try and get lines for them or what? I think I should be alright once I do that and not have to bleed the lines so often anymore... Either that or I have to buy used sets of stuff to put dot 4 back in... but I'm definetely not feeling so hot right now cause I made such a bone head mistake...

kai ju

You will never get all the Silicone out unless you disassemble the system.
I would strongly recommend that you get a master and slave cylinder rebuild kit and also replace the contaminated lines.
If you want a stock clutch line let me know since I have one.
I may have a stock rear brake line as well but will have to check to make sure.
When I was working as a tech one of the biggest issues I saw from do it yourselfers was clutch bleeding.
Here is what I found to work the best if you don't have a power bleeder.
Assemble your system, fill the master cylinder and then wrap a rag/towel around the master cylinder banjo bolt and fitting.
Now pump the lever repeatedly and then break the banjo bolt loose.
You should get both air and fluid, hence the rag.
Repeat until you get only fluid, the sound will change as well.
Once the master cylinder is bled, finish off at the bleednipple for the slave and you should be done.
Note: Keep an eye on the level in the master cylinder so you don't suck air and have to start over. Also make sure you don't get any brakefluid on paint unless your goal is to remove it.
Clutch bleeding is simple if you do the master cylinder first.
Good luck.
Kai Ju

EngineNoO9

I have a power bleeder and getting a solid pedal has never been an issue... I'm being told by several diff people that I can either... stick with DOT 5 and just try and just flush it several times to make sure the old stuff is out or do what you said which is rebuild it...

I'm going to for now flush everything and leave the dot 5 in and come summer what I'll do is dissasemble everything and clean everything by hand and rebuild it all so I can go back to DOT 4. I'll buy new ss lines all around then (already have them up front). Reason I'm waiting till summer is right now I'm in an apartment at school and don't have all the tools necessary to rebuild and well it's easier in a garage (I rebuilt my old 1983 inighthawk 550's calipers)

EngineNoO9

only question is where can I get the rebuild kits? specially cause I'll have to do all components... (rear caliper and mc, front mc and calipers, and clutch mc and whatever down to where it leads...)

Loco

You are not going to believe this, but I have stock rear and front calipers for sale. Plus since they aren't high demand pieces, I can let them go for cheap. Email me if you are interested: Lftopletz@terracon.com

They are NOT DOT5 contaminated.

EngineNoO9

I'll have to see... I may decide to leave dot 5 in there or rebuild them and put dot 4 back in... it doesn't appear like it's an emergency as long as I make sure it's nicely flushed and if it does start to get some fluid in I flush right away