how in the f#%kin hell do you get the axle back in the wheel?
05-02-2012, 05:23 PM
#1
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how in the f#%kin hell do you get the axle back in the wheel?
Hey guys, need suggestions. As we know, there's this floating tube inside the wheel the axle goes through. So how the hell do you insert the axle back into the wheel on the bike? Dang tube won't line up right...BTW, I'm doin this alone...
Any ideas other than a same sized axle thing at the other end to line em up? My back is starting to kill me, lol!
Thanks!
Any ideas other than a same sized axle thing at the other end to line em up? My back is starting to kill me, lol!
Thanks!
05-02-2012, 05:53 PM
#2
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Squid
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Do you have the wheel off the ground? I just did mine a few days ago. The 2 bushings on either side of the wheel are a close fit inside the swing arm. if you are able to adjust the height of the bike you can just slide the tire right into position and the bolt may need a little persuasion.
I used a hammer and lightly taped all the way till it hit the bushing on the sprocket side. I then gave it a little wiggle pushing on the bolt, with my legs under the tire to moved it up and down till i got 'er in the hole.
I used a hammer and lightly taped all the way till it hit the bushing on the sprocket side. I then gave it a little wiggle pushing on the bolt, with my legs under the tire to moved it up and down till i got 'er in the hole.
05-02-2012, 06:31 PM
#5
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Hmmm...you mean that heavy weight sticky ****? All I gots is Mobil 1 synthetic grease...but yeah! Axle grease! Good idea! But how would I get it down in there? Remember, its sandwiched between the bearings an bushings...
05-02-2012, 06:35 PM
#6
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Installing the rear wheel is one of those simple things that can drive you nuts.
Some things can make it easier. I screw in the chain adjusters until the holes in the adjusters are at the front of slot in the swingarm. I use a cable tie to hold the rear caliper mounting plate to the swing arm, locate the hole for the axle at the front of the slot in the swingarm and spread the pads a bit with a screwdriver. I cover the caliper with a rag so that I don't scratch the wheel while I'm working it past the caliper. I put a light coat of grease on the axle and make sure it's going to be within reach when I need it. I put the spacers into the wheel and hope they stay there.
I support the wheel with my feet as I move it past the caliper and raise it so that the disc slips between the pads. It's easier to install the axle from the brake disc side (per Tweety's suggestion) than from the sprocket side. The axle doesn't care what side it's inserted from.
The spacer between the wheel bearings shouldn't be off by much, if anything. A gynecologically trained finger or a dowel or screwdriver should put things right if necessary. There's a lot of slop in the chain adjusters and that plus a wheel that's tilted in one or more planes can make the job a source of misery.
You will beat it. You will overcome.
Some things can make it easier. I screw in the chain adjusters until the holes in the adjusters are at the front of slot in the swingarm. I use a cable tie to hold the rear caliper mounting plate to the swing arm, locate the hole for the axle at the front of the slot in the swingarm and spread the pads a bit with a screwdriver. I cover the caliper with a rag so that I don't scratch the wheel while I'm working it past the caliper. I put a light coat of grease on the axle and make sure it's going to be within reach when I need it. I put the spacers into the wheel and hope they stay there.
I support the wheel with my feet as I move it past the caliper and raise it so that the disc slips between the pads. It's easier to install the axle from the brake disc side (per Tweety's suggestion) than from the sprocket side. The axle doesn't care what side it's inserted from.
The spacer between the wheel bearings shouldn't be off by much, if anything. A gynecologically trained finger or a dowel or screwdriver should put things right if necessary. There's a lot of slop in the chain adjusters and that plus a wheel that's tilted in one or more planes can make the job a source of misery.
You will beat it. You will overcome.
05-02-2012, 07:17 PM
#7
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Strange, I never noticed this. Had my wheel off dozens of times. TMK the 2 wheel bearings should hold the spacer inside the wheel captive. There shouldnt be a way to get it "out of line" unless the bearings are not driven all the way in....
05-02-2012, 07:18 PM
#8
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Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1998>VTR1000F>REAR WHEEL
That spacer, #7 in the parts fiche, shouldn't be moving. The bearings should hold it in place... Me-thinks somethings wrong here...
That spacer, #7 in the parts fiche, shouldn't be moving. The bearings should hold it in place... Me-thinks somethings wrong here...
05-02-2012, 07:21 PM
#9
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Smokinjoe beat me to it...
I'd lay the wheel on the ground, align the spacer with the bearings with a long thin screwdriver, and see if theres any play between the bearings. Something ain't right.
I'd lay the wheel on the ground, align the spacer with the bearings with a long thin screwdriver, and see if theres any play between the bearings. Something ain't right.
05-02-2012, 08:08 PM
#10
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Naw, pounded the bearings in real good till I heard a clink clink...metal hitting metal...all surfaces sub flush...that tube was floating before I started. Oh well, at least I got the new clutch cover gasket installed. New oil, filter, an a coolant top off. Enough for today lol. Thanks for all the input tho...this forums got more DIY'ers than I can count!
Oh an BTW the car Purlator Walmart filter I got is too damn long for that bottom fairing...an its white...*sigh*...live an learn lol
Oh an BTW the car Purlator Walmart filter I got is too damn long for that bottom fairing...an its white...*sigh*...live an learn lol
05-02-2012, 08:12 PM
#11
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Naw, pounded the bearings in real good till I heard a clink clink...metal hitting metal...all surfaces sub flush...that tube was floating before I started. Oh well, at least I got the new clutch cover gasket installed. New oil, filter, an a coolant top off. Enough for today lol. Thanks for all the input tho...this forums got more DIY'ers than I can count!
Oh an BTW the car Purlator Walmart filter I got is too damn long for that bottom fairing...an its white...*sigh*...live an learn lol
Oh an BTW the car Purlator Walmart filter I got is too damn long for that bottom fairing...an its white...*sigh*...live an learn lol
05-02-2012, 11:43 PM
#12
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Yes it does have a shoulder for the bearing to seat against. It also should hold the spacer in place with some tension.
05-03-2012, 04:55 AM
#13
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Wait, if you didn't know that the bearings have a shoulder, why again are you posting? Lol. An It was loose when I pulled it...when all of you did yours, it wasnt? Hmmm..and I didn't use a hammer on the axle lol, that should slip in by hand. An I used a 36mm socket an a rubber hammer to pound in the bearings...I may just try axle grease that was suggested earlier...like, duh! Lol thanks again guys, ya'll are great!
05-03-2012, 07:11 AM
#14
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I always use a 2x4time under the ture and jack the bike up or down till i can see through the holes in the swinger and wheel then slide the axle in... sometimes it takes a wiggle to slide all the way through...
05-03-2012, 07:33 AM
#16
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I use a triangular wheel chock. Place it up against the front side of the tire and then sit down behind the bike with the back of your heels against the chock to pull against the tire and raise it as needed. You can also align the holes in the wheel, etc. by putting the axle through the left side and into the wheel. Now you can rock the tire side to side as necessary to tap the axle through with a dead blow or rubber hammer. Hardest part is getting my old bones up after the job is done. lol
05-03-2012, 08:51 AM
#17
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If it was loose when you took the wheel off then something isn't right. It doesn't matter what tricks you to get the axle in, you need to fix it first.
05-03-2012, 11:26 AM
#19
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That's what I do too. Have a variety of thin to thick wood strips all about 3 to 4 inches wide. Use them for front and rear wheel installs!
05-03-2012, 12:27 PM
#20
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Guys its not a problem of the wheel being stacked, or any of that...that tube in the middle floats...guess my only options are a drift pin from the brake side, or axle grease...or both lol.
Thanks for all the interest! This site is tops for all kinds of info an knowledge
Thanks for all the interest! This site is tops for all kinds of info an knowledge
05-03-2012, 01:00 PM
#21
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Guys its not a problem of the wheel being stacked, or any of that...that tube in the middle floats...guess my only options are a drift pin from the brake side, or axle grease...or both lol.
Thanks for all the interest! This site is tops for all kinds of info an knowledge
Thanks for all the interest! This site is tops for all kinds of info an knowledge
One we can help with, the other, well that's your choice. If it's the second, just tell us so we can stop helping, and or wasting our time.
05-03-2012, 01:01 PM
#22
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Been there. What I did; used a wooden dowel cut to the inside length of the hub, bearing to bearing, to hold the interior spacer in alignment. When axle got inserted the dowel got pushed out.
05-03-2012, 01:53 PM
#25
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Anyway, much bigger problems...I had it started up...waiting for the fan to kick on...no fan...it overheated an shut off...Wtf? Waterpump shaft not engaged? How? I didn't unplug anything except the turn signal to take off the right fairing...****...at least I can access the pump without removing to clutch cover again, that was a bitche too, lol
05-03-2012, 01:58 PM
#26
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None of you have a rear stand? Wood blocks work fine I'm sure, but with a stand its a lot more stable and theres no need to jack up on the bike. Before o had a stand I would put a jackstand under each side of the swing arm. I would adjust one to the right height then tip the bike over on the side stand (so the back wheel comes up) and slip the stand under the swing arm, then push the bike up onto that stand and put the other on the opposite side.
