fuel gage malfunction
01-21-2008, 12:51 PM
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 120
Did it just start happening? or were you doing work on it
It sounds kinda like mine. All of a sudden it started displaying whatever it wanted. Right after tanking up it says "Hmmm yeah I'm just going to display 1/4 tank, cool?" I think it's just the sender that's fubar.
It sounds kinda like mine. All of a sudden it started displaying whatever it wanted. Right after tanking up it says "Hmmm yeah I'm just going to display 1/4 tank, cool?" I think it's just the sender that's fubar.
01-23-2008, 06:35 PM
#9
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 4,138
True, and I do miss the gauges and the clock on the VTR. My VFR is a year older but has all the goodies. I get on the Superhawk and I keep looking for all the stuff that SHOULD be there that isn't - like the Sundial and the whale-oil powered clock.
If you're ever doing a down-to-the-frame rebuild this should be considered as a valuable upgrade on the older bikes. The wiring harness has to be changed out and the gauge cluster needs to be updated. I think there is a sending unit change that needs to happen in the tank and a digital sending unit for the rad temp. It's not as easy as some would think.
When I wrecked my Superhawk in Feb of 07 I actually looked for one of the newer models that I could move all my equipment across to (including new fairings in red) but it was the wrong time of the year to do it. Prices had firmed for Spring season and it was going to be over the top expensive for me at the time. Even with somebody else cited at fault and their ins co in tow, it just couldn't work to buy the whole bike.
I may still do it if I can find a late model frame with the tank, rads, and cluster in good condition. If any of you hear of anything let me know.
My engine is running so strong now I would just move it across. I'm not interested in another engine project. Although I still need new covers.
If you're ever doing a down-to-the-frame rebuild this should be considered as a valuable upgrade on the older bikes. The wiring harness has to be changed out and the gauge cluster needs to be updated. I think there is a sending unit change that needs to happen in the tank and a digital sending unit for the rad temp. It's not as easy as some would think.
When I wrecked my Superhawk in Feb of 07 I actually looked for one of the newer models that I could move all my equipment across to (including new fairings in red) but it was the wrong time of the year to do it. Prices had firmed for Spring season and it was going to be over the top expensive for me at the time. Even with somebody else cited at fault and their ins co in tow, it just couldn't work to buy the whole bike.
I may still do it if I can find a late model frame with the tank, rads, and cluster in good condition. If any of you hear of anything let me know.
My engine is running so strong now I would just move it across. I'm not interested in another engine project. Although I still need new covers.
02-02-2008, 06:17 AM
#10
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Squid
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Boone, NC
Posts: 32
well i pulled up the tank, the soldering looks fine, and then i checked the wiring harness under the seat, and i unhooked it all cleaned and reinstalled, still no fuel gauge. so short of the actual display being broken i guess its the sending unit. right?
03-27-2009, 06:28 PM
#11
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Squid
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maine
Posts: 12
Dealing with this right now...
If you look in the tank mouth, you will see the sensor part of the fuel level sensor on the right.
Now imagine how you fill your gas tank... Do you fill from the left side? Do you jamb the filler nossle into your fuel sender? I started filling on the right just to avoid accedentally breaking another fuel sender. What happens is usually you poke the hair thin wire with the nossle and it's all over!
Remember this trick though... Get the fuel level down far enough so you cannot see any when looking into the filler neck.
Remove the two 8mm bolts at the front of the tank and pivot it up on the back bolt.
Take a measuring tape and measure the distance between the mounting flange and the frame mount. Now... cut a chunk of 2x4 that length and drive a finish nail into each end leaving 1/2" sticking out. Use it to prop the tank up. the two finish nails will hook into the mounting tab and the bolt hole in the frame preventing the prop from popping out.
Pop open the fuel fill just to make sure the level of fuel is down below the sender.
Remove the 4X 10MM nuts and remove the sending unit. It will twist to the left to remove the float from the tank. Do not misplace the large o-ring.
Pull harness out from under the foam and replace unit in reverse order. If the wire is broken do not try to resolder it. It is a nickle/cobalt/steel alloy and you will be unable to patch the ends sucessfully. I have tried on a few and not had any sucess even if I was able to get a good connection.
Bike bandit " www.bikebandit.com " has a good parts fische and reasonable prices for replacements. I have been working on making a cover for these to prevent smashing the gauge with the filler nossle, but have yet to find a good material.
If you look in the tank mouth, you will see the sensor part of the fuel level sensor on the right.
Now imagine how you fill your gas tank... Do you fill from the left side? Do you jamb the filler nossle into your fuel sender? I started filling on the right just to avoid accedentally breaking another fuel sender. What happens is usually you poke the hair thin wire with the nossle and it's all over!
Remember this trick though... Get the fuel level down far enough so you cannot see any when looking into the filler neck.
Remove the two 8mm bolts at the front of the tank and pivot it up on the back bolt.
Take a measuring tape and measure the distance between the mounting flange and the frame mount. Now... cut a chunk of 2x4 that length and drive a finish nail into each end leaving 1/2" sticking out. Use it to prop the tank up. the two finish nails will hook into the mounting tab and the bolt hole in the frame preventing the prop from popping out.
Pop open the fuel fill just to make sure the level of fuel is down below the sender.
Remove the 4X 10MM nuts and remove the sending unit. It will twist to the left to remove the float from the tank. Do not misplace the large o-ring.
Pull harness out from under the foam and replace unit in reverse order. If the wire is broken do not try to resolder it. It is a nickle/cobalt/steel alloy and you will be unable to patch the ends sucessfully. I have tried on a few and not had any sucess even if I was able to get a good connection.
Bike bandit " www.bikebandit.com " has a good parts fische and reasonable prices for replacements. I have been working on making a cover for these to prevent smashing the gauge with the filler nossle, but have yet to find a good material.
03-27-2009, 07:08 PM
#12
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 3,451
I don't ever let the gas pump nozzle touch any metal on my tank. And I direct the flow at an angle from the left side to prevent splashing fuel on the paint. That's delicate stuff in there.
03-28-2009, 12:26 AM
#13
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03-28-2009, 12:39 AM
#14
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Location: Way Out West
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Gassing up the VTR esp. with the California Air Resources Board mandated accordion bullshit on the nozzle, is a pain in the ***. Unless on a run requiring more than a tankful, I don't bother. whenever I fill up my truck, I put 2 or 2.5 gallons in a can and use it with a funnel to top off the VTR.
03-30-2009, 07:58 PM
#15
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