Just riving this dead thread. I'm having the similar issue where last fall/late summer they worked fine. Now there is about a 40sec delay. It's about 26F out.

Took a quick look at it. Connections seem fine. When you hit the blinkers, it just sits, and then just before it gets going I can hear the relay going off at twice the speed with the blinkers not lighting up, and then it kicks in normally. That's going to make safety certification that much easier.

 

Thanks for the revival .... I think.
So at this point I have cleaned the connectors in the tail of the bike, overhauled the switch at the bar, and replaced the signal relay - I still have the dangerous delay. My next steps will be to take all of the bulbs out and clean the connections there.

In the meantime the high beam bulb has burned out. I haven't done any work on the bike for some time due to the winter weather but I hope to get on it soon.

 

Do you have the correct wattage bulbs in your signals? They should be 23W.

 

Hey Greg, don't know about others' but mine are the original bulbs. I can imagine there's some oxidation in the sockets. I'll try cleaning them up with steel wool. These problems began for me after I began parking my bike outside - previously I had a garage to park it in.

 

This one just never seems to go away does it? I have not heard a definitive solution to this problem ever. I too am suffering long delays with cold weather (though our idea of cold here in Oz is very different to yours. How do you guys do it?!) Some strange things I have noticed about mine is that the blinkers seem to respond immediately if I try them without the engine running. To my mind this seems to be in direct contradiction of the theory about reduced electricity flow/increased resistance.
Another puzzler is that the right and left blinkers behave differently. This would seem to suggest that the problem is not with the relay. I too have removed/inspected/cleaned/greased every part of the system with only the smallest of improvements.
Another thought I had was to try blowing hot air (hairdryer or cautiously applied heat gun) onto the switchblock and the relay at different times to see if heating up one or the other makes a difference. Haven't tried it yet, only just thought of it whilst writing this. Will post results.

 

Hmmm, cleaning the light bulb sockets was going to be my next task, thinking that maybe corrosion had set in due to outside parking (under cover). I'll give it a try anyway.

 

I've had the same problem since I got my Hawk and just decided not to let it bother me anymore since I use hand signals too. It pissed me off for a while though.
________
Blunt

 

i had a problem like this when i tried to rewire my bike when my headlight was off the blinkers worked and when on it took awhile for them to turn on if at all it ended up being the ground wire check for a cracks or holes in the wires

 

I had a '59 Porsche 356A for 9 years (until my ex-wife claimed it in the divorce, no problem since I got my bike) and I had to clean the sockets every 6 months to keep the turn signals working. Use very fine emery paper on the sides of the socket.

And like stated earlier use dielectric grease on the contacts to prevent corrosion. Kragen always pushes it on customers when they buy plug wires.

 

Mine do this too. Take about 60 seconds to start working when the bike is cold and running.

When it's not running though, they work immediately! I have replacement signals with bulbs.

The problem seemed to appear right around when I removed the front signals, and about the same time my r/r failed high. I thought it was related, but now I have signals all the way around and a yamaha r/r. Everything works aside from the slow signals in the morning.

Bike is parked inside and always has been.

 

This happened to my hawk.
New Winker Relay ( the official honda term ) and same problem.
Found that if you buy an expensive tube of De-Oxit ( about 10 bucks at electronic store )
and spray De-Oxit on your multi prong connectors under seat and near steering head and guages, then reassemble after a few minutes, solves many problems.

The stuff is phenominal in troubleshooting all kinds of expensive electronics and computer interfaces.
Thats what fixed mine, not the new $30 Winker relay.

 

I've been suffering with this cold-weather blinker delay for the past 3+ years. First disassembled the switch on the bar. It looked clean, so I tested voltage at the input of the relay. It changes state immediately when I turn on the blinker, so I don't suspect the switch is the problem. Then I thought maybe the relay was getting sticky. High-power mechanical relays can tack weld themselves into one position. Replaced the relay with a LP solid state unit...no change. All the connectors on the entire harness look clean. I hit 'em with some dielectric grease for good measure. Now I have a new failure mode in any climate where the signals work intermittently. Sometimes they work fine; sometimes they turn on and don't blink; sometimes they don't light at all. If guys with LED signals suffer this same delay, it's not oxidation in the bulb socket either, right? Now I suspect a short/open in the harness, especially since it runs right by the hot R/R, but I really don't want to cut into the harness.

Has anyone just replaced the whole bike's wiring harness to address this issue? Results?

 

Its the R/R regulating the voltage wrong.
Its still charging the battery, but the level had to be within 1 volt of nominal for that picky winker relay to function right.
Im not saying get a new R/R, or that yours is "bad", as yours will probably keep charging for some time.
But on the one I build, theres an adjustment pot, and I noticed that until its adjusted right to the exact spot the winker relay likes, you will get the weird behavior like you describe, even on my own bikes. I think its just a flaky circuit for the winkers. Other bikes winker circuits are not sensitive like the superhawks.

One way you can experiment, is put a battery charger on the battery, and watch the voltage. Try the winker at several voltages, and you will notice it works better at certain voltages than others.
From what I can tell. it likes the 15 - 15.5 volts nominal charge level

 

That sounds plausible. So does that mean that the sensitive component is the flasher relay?

 

yup. One of the quirks of a wonderful machine.
Bell 208 has all kinds of harmless quirks and pilots dont complain. They love it.
Might retro fit with better hardware, Ive never had time to play with that. An idea.

 

So what would stop us wiring in an el cheapo common flasher unit from KMart?

 

Instead of WD-40, use De-oxit cleaner.
If they carry the stuff on the space shuttle electronic technicians kit, theres something to it.

 

nothing as long as its schematicaly compatible. ( trigger/contacts )

 

Well... I did wire in a el cheapo one to get my LED's at the correct rate... And together with other maintenance, ie check for oxide, clean handlebar switch and use grease that doesn't go stiff in cold weather... Well those cured it...

 

Burner, I'm not at my bench currently, so I can't test how the winker performs as I vary input voltage. I did measure voltage across the battery with engine running. It may be a bit low at 13.4V, but the spec for a fully charged battery is 13.2V. I can't imagine what is in the OEM electromagnetic relay or my aftermarket SSR that would be so sensitive to voltage and/or temperature. I'd love to hear any theories why these relays are so sensitive/inconsitent...the more technical the better.

BTW, I don't consider this a harmless quirk by any stretch. How many cage drivers do you suppose know how to interpret hand signals these days?

 

It's a combination of being both voltage dependent and temperature dependent. I haven't heard an explanation that makes sense for both.

It works instantly on a cold bike that's shut off. It works instantly on bike that's been running for 30 seconds. It's only that part in between where it doesn't go.

 

Right about .... here.
And my winker happily winks the instant its commanded to wink.
And...I beleive...it varies from hawk to hawk! bah! lol

 

Say you have a nearly broken wire, down to the last filament, acting like a voltage divider. Running higher voltage would help in this case, right?

 

sure, in that case.
But that scenario isnt required on the superhawk at least.

 

My newer hawk is a 98 with 8k miles and the old-style R/R putting out over 15V@5K rpm. It has no blinker problems. My older hawk is a 98 with 68k miles and the new-style (finned) R/R putting out under 14V@5k. It has been plagued with blinker problems for years. I swapped the R/R to see if higher voltage would remedy the blinker problems. No change. The newer hawk's blinker works flawlessly with the low-output R/R and even on a low battery alone <12V. I suspect that running a higher voltage may help in that it address a symptom, but not the root cause of the problem. I thought I had checked all connections previously and all looked clean and bright. However, I forgot to check the main fuse and the plugs going into the starter relay block. These were oxidized. I hit 'em with steel wool, then DeOxit. Now the blinkers work a lot better (still not perfect) and all the lights on the instrument cluster are noticeably brighter. There must have been a pretty substantial voltage drop across those oxidized connectors near the main fuse. I wish I had measured it before cleaning. I guess if you're going to check connectors, it's a good idea to check ALL of them.

 

... especially the one in series with every circuit on the bike. Has anyone tried those bling gold-plated blade fuses?