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Electrical Oddities, and How to Fix Them?

Old 08-23-2005, 03:18 PM
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Electrical Oddities, and How to Fix Them?

Ok, I have had this bike a week or two now, and I'm having some issues I need resolved. Keep in mind the bike is heavily modified, but I'm still looking for pointers.

1) Does the rear brake master cylinder HAVE an integral brakelight switch? I don't see any wires or hear switching, but hopefully I'm just missing something obvious. I'd really like to be able to flash my brakelight without bringing the full stopping power of the fronts to bear on the bike. Does the stock set-up have an external switch? I have "Haris Rearsets", so some parts may be missing.

2) The starter will run when the engine is switched off. Totally stupid. I can't think of any good reason for this. All is does is load up the tailpipe with fuel while I mess with the choke, then when I remember the switch everyone withing 3 miles hears the huge POP of that fuel lighting in the exhaust pipe. I'm getting used to it, but I'd rather wire it up like other bikes I've had so the starter won't turn unless the kill switch is on "run". Is this stock? What's the best way to defeat it?

3) On those occasions where the bike DOES stall, I can't just tap the starter, because there's a neutral cut out. This is REALLY annoying. Much more annoying than a clutch cut out. Most of the time by the time I get it back to neutral (sometimes hard to find) I've now stopped, in traffic, and everyone hates me. Is there something I can jump to bypass this? If so, will it have any negetive effects?

4) Suprise Bonus Question: My Choke (aside from not always staying out all the way - engine vibrations pull the lever back in. I think it's a good thing, actually) seems VERY non-linear. Pull it out a little, it's good, pull it out a bit more, it stalls the motor. Pull it out further still, it helps even more, pull it out all the way the motor will barely stay alive. I assume this is because of the linkage between the two carbs, and how they are at an angle to each other. Then again, I assume honda would have noticed this at the factory and accounted for it. Am I missing something?
Also, if I don't put the lever in ALL the way, the bike is more stall prone once warm. To be expected, I suppose.


Well, that's the laundry list for today. Maybe I should have made seperate posts, but hopefully I get some good answers. Now I'm off to check my battery levels. :-) (thanks CaffeineRacer)
-Abe.
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Last edited by AbeFM; 03-17-2011 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 08-23-2005, 05:30 PM
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1. The switch is on the stock mounting bracket for the rear master
3. The problem is your clutch cutout. There should be two wires that connect at the lever. You should just be able to pull in the clutch to start in any gear (or switch to neutral, which still works normally.)
4. The choke tension is adjustable. Pull back the rubber boot under the **** and tighten the knurled nut a little. The choke symptoms are jetting related.

Let me think about the rest. Your bike has obviously been mucked around with. I'm assuming someone tried to fix another problem with wacky rewiring. Or maybe it was a track bike converted back to street use.
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Old 08-24-2005, 08:09 PM
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It's just a LOT of mods. I think the guy bought a wreck and did a nice job with the mechanics of it all putting it back together - really, I'm impressed. I can deal with bad timming or bad wiring, but bad paint and I might as well throw the bike away. :-)

Anyways, thanks for the help. I think/know the jetting has been messed with - the airbox drilled.

Ah, yes, the clutch cut out was disabled (I was under the impression you needed it even in neutral, so people unhook it. if that's not the case I'll hook it back up. I was told you have to be in nuetral ANYWAYS.

P.S. I went to school with a Jeremy Schmidt. He said one t is pretty rare. What's your J for?
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Old 08-24-2005, 08:35 PM
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Re: Electrical Oddities, and How to Fix Them?

Hey Abe,

How 'bout some pics of that bike? It seems a little familiar to me as I recall a red framed VTR on ebay a while back.

On question #2, the starter button may be sticking in sometimes. I've had that happen on another honda and it drove me crazy trying to figure out what that sound was while I was riding (helmet/ear plugs).
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Old 08-24-2005, 08:42 PM
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Re: Electrical Oddities, and How to Fix Them?

Oh, god no! That's not it. The button works fine, it just works even when the kill switch is "killed", free spinning the motor

Hmm, I can attach one here, I guess. Will do. Bad lighting, but at least I'm not on it.

Again, you'll spot the major stuff:
R6 front, 929 forks, gixxer f brakes, gixxer tail, leo v single pipe, olins damper, for twin click, harris pegs, and some sweet turn signals on the handle bars. I will have to make them brighter.

What do you (guys) think? I would love to get another mirror to matcht he one I have.
________
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Old 08-25-2005, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by AbeFM";p=&quot View Post

P.S. I went to school with a Jeremy Schmidt. He said one t is pretty rare. What's your J for?
Jim. I don't find the spelling to be so rare. My middle name is Alwin. That's rare.
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Old 08-25-2005, 11:33 AM
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Pretty trick... looks tuff!!!

Is the frame/swingarm painted or powder coated?
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Old 08-25-2005, 11:37 AM
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Thanks. It's all powder coat and chrome. I wish I could take credit for it. BTW - the matched wheels on your ride don't look half bad themselves. :-)

The thing I like that's shocking is the fake steel braided lines everywhere. Looks trick, I might add more.

The guards by the footpegs - and the gas cap - are both carbon fiber - the footpeg sheilds are real, too - and I can't decide if I got a hugger if it should be carbon as well. Anyways, I'll probably cheap out and just get a chain guard since I like the open wheele look. Maybe I'll do some picture cruising online to make up my mind...
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