Alright, so after the dyno run I decided to do a little digging. Turning in the AF screws helped but I'm sure they alone will not get me from 10.8 to 14.ish. I pulled the carbs and what I found are adjustable needles of an unknown source, and 190 main in the front, 195 in the rear with oem pilots. The needles were 1 from bottom with 2 shims on top (odd.) So, that explains why it was rich all over, huge mains and lifted needles. Also the slides were drilled. IIRC the slide drilling is DJ thing right? So it seems likely the needles and mains are DJ? Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

Calibrated eyeball testing via laptop screen.... Ya they look like a set of DJ needles I have
Add in, Yes, drilling the slide in that location is a DJ thing and I think your on the right track.
The Jets, were they marked Keihin ? If not Keihin marked, Id say then its a sure bet on the DJ kit in there

 

Fuel screws are for the lowest part of the circuit.
Here is a chart that comes with the Dynojet kits.

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the Factory Pro needles had 5 grooves and the Dynojet needles had 6 grooves.

 

 

Confirmed...they are DJ's. So, I logged on to jets r us and ordered 180/185 as per the DJ instructions along with a fresh set of plugs. A little more cleaning and I think it'll be just fine. I found that the pilot jet was also clogged. after a bit of soaking all is well. I think I'll get to work buttoning things up tomorrow.
In progress: Pair delete, Carb Coolant line delete, Carb jetting, New Plugs.

 

I was wondering about those coolant lines going to the carbs myself. Is that for cold climates? I can delete those living in FL if that's the case

 

Well I dont know what kind of oil is best and which tires should we run? /////LOL

Since no one at Honda R&D has posted up in the 18 years I know the question has been asked...its still a guess based on what someones mother who speaks Japanese heard in a pit lane or what was true on my 1973 Mazda..Or what my brothers Airplane used to keep the carb from icing.....LOL

I think most will find the carb passage long since blocked with scale and deposits and most are not finding a tuning issues that is relevant to that lack of coolant flow so Id say, ya, remove the hoses and your fine ..
If you are riding in NY, MN, AK winters, perhaps dissolve that crap in the coolant carb passage and let that warm stuff flow.. For me in Texas.....Im good without.

 

Agreed, I could see them preventing carb icing, and or serving to improve efficiency at startup, but as it has been pointed out by other members the design of the system may actually keep the carbs cooler longer. De-Icing I can see but as far as I know I'm one of the few idiots that drive in weather below 40. A few others seem to be convinced that it effects performance, though I don't see how. I think I may use a second oil cooler and turn it into a third radiator and plumb those lines into it, just for kicks of course. Overall the best part so far is having less hoses in the way.

 

That reminds me..I run Castrol Synthetic and Michelin Pilots.....Occasionally I run 100 Octane Av Gas too! Let the tire-oil-octane debate thread begin!

 

And 4 less failure points |since 2005, and about 60k miles, the only coolant leak I ever had was at a carb coolant line.

 

AS said ditch the carb heater plumbing.. i also had to block the third lift hole in my carbs to get it running properly. it was always a little fluffy so i suspected it was running rich when i opened the throttle. blocked the extra lift hole and it cured my problem..

 

Ditched indeed. Much nicer now. I think I may look into the third hole fixing, I am somewhat suspicious of that concept.

 

not storm related but, i also have a FMX650 supermoto. was running like a pig and was fitted with a K&N filter and dyno jet kit, again i blocked the third lift hole and boom, away it went. sorted.

 

For sure, I filled mine yesterday, I lost no performance whatsoever on the butt dyno and it most definitely throttles better.

 

 

I've done field testing riding my hawk down to 0*F with the carb lines both functional and not and the cold weather manners never changed. I had no problems in freezing NYC winters without coolant going to the carbs. Just my experience.

 

Im with you.... Having ridden here in TX with ice forming on the plastic as I ride I'm thinking there must be a very specific set of conditions for the carbs to need the heated coolant.

And for those that have not looked.... or know otherwise.... The coolant only goes to a shallow dead end "hole" on the side of the carb near the intake bell. At best it creates a warm spot near that point with just a bit of heat spreading to the near by part. But again, perhaps that is what Honda engineers found was all that was needed. Its also possible, it was never an issue seen on this V twin...model, but on some other and the anticipated design need transfered over as likely needed.
As I see no down side to it other than leak potential, when I go though a spare carb set later this month replacing every O ring (12 of them), replacing all rubber hoses with silicone hose, install clamps on hoses that now have only slip fit or wire type clamps, installing the dry QR fittings in the fuel lines I will make sure the coolant fittings are clear and the T stat housing the same....

 

I see it one less thing to take off when messing with the carbs.
Can I cap those lines or do I have to go from one port of the engine to the other to "bypass" the carbs?

 

Cap the port on the thermostat housing and your good.

As much as I hate JB weld and the like...I think Id fill the port with JB Weld and then put a silicone cap over the top with a clamp.