What am I dealing with?
01-11-2015, 11:47 AM
#1
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: NC
Posts: 11
What am I dealing with?
I'm new to the forum...should've joined a couple of weeks ago when I made my purchase but I haven't had a chance. I apologize if I missed this in a search. I'm about to replace the frame of a 2002 Superhawk I bought (it has a salvage title due to be stolen). I have done work on several bikes I've owned so I know each time is a new adventure and new problems 
. My main concern are the forks. I've researched but haven't found any info about this fork adjustment mod. If you can tell from the pics and know feel free to chime in. The guy I purchased it from was a little out of it and didn't have much information. Thanks for the help.
. My main concern are the forks. I've researched but haven't found any info about this fork adjustment mod. If you can tell from the pics and know feel free to chime in. The guy I purchased it from was a little out of it and didn't have much information. Thanks for the help.
01-11-2015, 12:22 PM
#4
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: NC
Posts: 11
Thanks for the replies. I thought it was for a quicker way to adjust the springs. I just didn't want to start disassembly and be surprised. I've found that out the hard way with other bikes I've owned with random mods. While I'm asking is the Shindy steering damper really needed/useful along with the Coerce fork brace for everyday riding? I'm deciding what parts to keep and what parts to possibly remove and sell.
01-13-2015, 05:57 PM
#8
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
So its better to lift the rear than drop the front? Im -3 front and +4 rear. Would like a little more tip in, so better to reset the front to stock and lift the rear to +6mm?
01-13-2015, 07:32 PM
#9
Senior Member
SuperBike
SuperBike
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,509
No its not better or worse. Personal preference.
I had a big long paragraph typed up twice on how you can adjust rake any way you want, and i referenced sport rider articles proclaiming dofferent ways to adjust suspension, but my phone deleted both the paragraphs... Twice. So, i give up. Here's a good link: Art & Science: Fun With Geometry | Sport Rider
There is nothing wrong with pulling the forks up in thr triple clamps, though Sport Rider found 7mm to be too high on the track, as they began scraping hard parts at that point.
Personal preference.
Ride your bike. Take notes of settings. Make one change. Write down the change. Rode your bike. Note how change affected bike. Repeat.
James
I had a big long paragraph typed up twice on how you can adjust rake any way you want, and i referenced sport rider articles proclaiming dofferent ways to adjust suspension, but my phone deleted both the paragraphs... Twice. So, i give up. Here's a good link: Art & Science: Fun With Geometry | Sport Rider
There is nothing wrong with pulling the forks up in thr triple clamps, though Sport Rider found 7mm to be too high on the track, as they began scraping hard parts at that point.
Personal preference.
Ride your bike. Take notes of settings. Make one change. Write down the change. Rode your bike. Note how change affected bike. Repeat.
James
01-14-2015, 09:34 AM
#11
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 1,858
It becomes really cloudy when talking in general about changes. Here are some points to consider:
- A stock VTR will be helped by raising the rear 20mm (that's about a 6mm shim at the shock).
- A VTR with properly setup suspension is best with a 3mm shim (approximately +10mm ride height)
- It is not advisable to lower the front by moving the forks in the triples in either case.
The last point goes against what you will commonly find stated. That is because people go by feel and not actual data. Dropping the front cases instability which makes the rider's brain think they are pushing really hard. Raising the front back up allows you to push harder and generates better handling performance.
But what about turn in? I'm sure someone is already loading up their ammo on that one. Again, this is a much misunderstood concept. With the correct springs and valving you will get good turn in performance. In fact better than lowering the geometry.
If you want your bike to handle well address the source of the problem. It is amazing how often people miss that! Adjusting geometry to fix poor damper performance is not very successful.
- A stock VTR will be helped by raising the rear 20mm (that's about a 6mm shim at the shock).
- A VTR with properly setup suspension is best with a 3mm shim (approximately +10mm ride height)
- It is not advisable to lower the front by moving the forks in the triples in either case.
The last point goes against what you will commonly find stated. That is because people go by feel and not actual data. Dropping the front cases instability which makes the rider's brain think they are pushing really hard. Raising the front back up allows you to push harder and generates better handling performance.
But what about turn in? I'm sure someone is already loading up their ammo on that one. Again, this is a much misunderstood concept. With the correct springs and valving you will get good turn in performance. In fact better than lowering the geometry.
If you want your bike to handle well address the source of the problem. It is amazing how often people miss that! Adjusting geometry to fix poor damper performance is not very successful.
01-14-2015, 11:10 AM
#12
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
It becomes really cloudy when talking in general about changes. Here are some points to consider:
- A stock VTR will be helped by raising the rear 20mm (that's about a 6mm shim at the shock).
- A VTR with properly setup suspension is best with a 3mm shim (approximately +10mm ride height)
- It is not advisable to lower the front by moving the forks in the triples in either case.
The last point goes against what you will commonly find stated. That is because people go by feel and not actual data. Dropping the front cases instability which makes the rider's brain think they are pushing really hard. Raising the front back up allows you to push harder and generates better handling performance.
But what about turn in? I'm sure someone is already loading up their ammo on that one. Again, this is a much misunderstood concept. With the correct springs and valving you will get good turn in performance. In fact better than lowering the geometry.
If you want your bike to handle well address the source of the problem. It is amazing how often people miss that! Adjusting geometry to fix poor damper performance is not very successful.
- A stock VTR will be helped by raising the rear 20mm (that's about a 6mm shim at the shock).
- A VTR with properly setup suspension is best with a 3mm shim (approximately +10mm ride height)
- It is not advisable to lower the front by moving the forks in the triples in either case.
The last point goes against what you will commonly find stated. That is because people go by feel and not actual data. Dropping the front cases instability which makes the rider's brain think they are pushing really hard. Raising the front back up allows you to push harder and generates better handling performance.
But what about turn in? I'm sure someone is already loading up their ammo on that one. Again, this is a much misunderstood concept. With the correct springs and valving you will get good turn in performance. In fact better than lowering the geometry.
If you want your bike to handle well address the source of the problem. It is amazing how often people miss that! Adjusting geometry to fix poor damper performance is not very successful.
As to turn in that could answer a small problem on my bike. Will try lifting the front back up then. Happy to take advise from experts on suspension.
Better make a block to go under my stand though, thing already tries to fall over. Lift the front will make it worse.
01-14-2015, 08:52 PM
#13
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,802
It becomes really cloudy when talking in general about changes. Here are some points to consider:
- A stock VTR will be helped by raising the rear 20mm (that's about a 6mm shim at the shock).
- A VTR with properly setup suspension is best with a 3mm shim (approximately +10mm ride height)
- It is not advisable to lower the front by moving the forks in the triples in either case.
The last point goes against what you will commonly find stated. That is because people go by feel and not actual data. Dropping the front cases instability which makes the rider's brain think they are pushing really hard. Raising the front back up allows you to push harder and generates better handling performance.
But what about turn in? I'm sure someone is already loading up their ammo on that one. Again, this is a much misunderstood concept. With the correct springs and valving you will get good turn in performance. In fact better than lowering the geometry.
If you want your bike to handle well address the source of the problem. It is amazing how often people miss that! Adjusting geometry to fix poor damper performance is not very successful.
- A stock VTR will be helped by raising the rear 20mm (that's about a 6mm shim at the shock).
- A VTR with properly setup suspension is best with a 3mm shim (approximately +10mm ride height)
- It is not advisable to lower the front by moving the forks in the triples in either case.
The last point goes against what you will commonly find stated. That is because people go by feel and not actual data. Dropping the front cases instability which makes the rider's brain think they are pushing really hard. Raising the front back up allows you to push harder and generates better handling performance.
But what about turn in? I'm sure someone is already loading up their ammo on that one. Again, this is a much misunderstood concept. With the correct springs and valving you will get good turn in performance. In fact better than lowering the geometry.
If you want your bike to handle well address the source of the problem. It is amazing how often people miss that! Adjusting geometry to fix poor damper performance is not very successful.
01-15-2015, 01:31 AM
#14
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
I recently raised the front end on the 848 and it made it a different bike to ride.
Has an adjustable link in the rear, raised that and the it wanted to fall into the corners, so raised the front and was a big improvement.
Compared to other bikes in the cave the Storm is the most neutral in the handling department, however there have been many changes to the Storm as well.
Has an adjustable link in the rear, raised that and the it wanted to fall into the corners, so raised the front and was a big improvement.
Compared to other bikes in the cave the Storm is the most neutral in the handling department, however there have been many changes to the Storm as well.
01-15-2015, 02:17 AM
#15
Moderator
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Gettysburg, Pa
Posts: 5,074
Sorry about this conundrum, I'll try to get it back on topic. Welcome to SHF!
Last edited by Wolverine; 01-15-2015 at 02:26 AM.
01-15-2015, 11:11 AM
#16
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
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