Coolant thru the carbs, is it needed in Fla.
#1
Coolant thru the carbs, is it needed in Fla.
About to do a coolant change 60/40 mix distilled h2o/ silicate free antifreeze and royal purple water wetter. My question is I noticed hot water lines running thru the carbs, I assume for carb ice. Can these lines be capped? I live in Tampa and don't ride if it is below 45 deg. I realize the temp thru the throat is lower due to the increased velocity- bernoulli's principle-. This is a common mod on corvettes which I have done w/ no problems. Also would the H.P. gain be worth it due to the denser air getting to the cylinders.
#3
Well this gives my opinion on the subject: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...t-lines-26919/
and the only dyno test I have seen is the one Greg posted a long ways back that showed you lost a little power with them removed.
But feel free to run it anyway you want.
and the only dyno test I have seen is the one Greg posted a long ways back that showed you lost a little power with them removed.
But feel free to run it anyway you want.
#4
Interesting Mike, thanks for the post. Mine were disconnected when I bought the bike (bought it used many years back) and I never had any problems with it but I guess if they're already hooked up, might be better to leave them on.....
#8
im in largo,66st and brian dairy area.
when i get my bike back together,we should ride.
if you need help with bike,let me know.
if i can help,i will.
#9
I may take you up on that
I just bought the bike, an 03 w/ 4500 mi. I need to go thru the carbs, sputters and kicks when cold for about 3 minutes then ok. Would not mind a second set of eyes when I do the mcct's. I heard the later model cct's were better and I am fairly smooth on the throttle, is there a strong need to change over now or wait till I hit 20k or so. Yea a ride sounds great, this is my 2nd hawk, 1st one is for sale now.
#10
I just bought the bike, an 03 w/ 4500 mi. I need to go thru the carbs, sputters and kicks when cold for about 3 minutes then ok. Would not mind a second set of eyes when I do the mcct's. I heard the later model cct's were better and I am fairly smooth on the throttle, is there a strong need to change over now or wait till I hit 20k or so. Yea a ride sounds great, this is my 2nd hawk, 1st one is for sale now.
it just depends on schedules when i can,but otherwise,it wont be a problem.
for the warm up,it might be the little screws the are at the end of the chole cable,one or both might be broke,or just a sync and adjust the air mixture screw.
as far as ccts are going,you can ride it,but if you can change them,do it,sooner the better.they can fail at very low miles.
your other superhawk,where do you have the ad for it.is it on craigslist and how much you looking to get for it.
there is a guy on another forum that just lost his,it caught on fire,and he will be looking for one very soon.right now he is borrowing a bike from someone and its a superhawk.so far,he seems to like it.if he really does like to look into one.than maybe he could check yours out.
there is a local web site called Tampasportbikes.com join up,you may like it.im on there as saige69.
#11
Hawk for sale
I have it for sale on craigslist -Tampa- just type superhawk and here on the forum under classifieds. There is a photobucket link w/ the add. Asking $2700 obo. Would it be best to bring the bike to a shop w/ a dyno and have them adjust the carbs to get them right.
#15
Bingo
New avitar coming soon. The 98 is a great bike but I always wanted the blue one and I found a low mileage one close to home. Was thinking of going w/ a Buell 1125r. It looked technically superior but was plagued w/ too many problems. I could not go from a bike that has never left me stranded to a problem child. Well once she quit but it was the prev owners fault. He told me he just changed the r/r and only twisted the wires together, she made a loud backfire and that was it. The new r/r has soldered terminals.
#16
So to put the thread back on track....
I'll ask the same question here as I did in the other thread (or at least one of the other threads....) on the subject of the carb coolant lines.
When the bike comes up to full operational temp and you have been riding it for a half hour or more, does the bike loose any power?
I ask this because by that time you have heat soaked the carbs (if you don't believe this put your hand or a temp gauge under the carbs in between the cylinders)
If you are not loosing power in this situation, how much do you think can be gained by removing the lines from the carbs no matter what they are truly intended for?
I'll ask the same question here as I did in the other thread (or at least one of the other threads....) on the subject of the carb coolant lines.
When the bike comes up to full operational temp and you have been riding it for a half hour or more, does the bike loose any power?
I ask this because by that time you have heat soaked the carbs (if you don't believe this put your hand or a temp gauge under the carbs in between the cylinders)
If you are not loosing power in this situation, how much do you think can be gained by removing the lines from the carbs no matter what they are truly intended for?
#17
Sorry for the digression
Once the bike is hot she runs great. I left the coolant lines hooked up. I purchased the bike w/ stock cans w/ the baffle cut out. Under decell- alot of poping-pair still installed-. Now I have D&D pipes and almost no poping under decell. Does this mean it was rich and now the pipes have helped to lean or clean it up? She still kicks a few times till I get to about 120 degrees. Is that a lean cond and what jets control this low rpm, what I am asking what do I have to do to fix this. I got some good pics today and updated my avitar, she is a beaut. 2003 Superhawk pictures by niterider64photo - Photobucket
#18
My .02 on this:
Carb coolant lines definitely are for heating the carbs, not cooling them...(duh). That said, there are a couple of reasons to heat the intake charge that way...#1 is to prevent icing and engine running problems in cold climate, and #2 is less a reason and more a by-product...it normalizes the intake temp and makes tuning the bike easier.
If you're going for maximum power output and don't care about practicality I would go ahead and remove them...if the bike is for street use, unless they're leaking or otherwise causing a problem you may as well keep them...
Carb coolant lines definitely are for heating the carbs, not cooling them...(duh). That said, there are a couple of reasons to heat the intake charge that way...#1 is to prevent icing and engine running problems in cold climate, and #2 is less a reason and more a by-product...it normalizes the intake temp and makes tuning the bike easier.
If you're going for maximum power output and don't care about practicality I would go ahead and remove them...if the bike is for street use, unless they're leaking or otherwise causing a problem you may as well keep them...
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