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Converted factory CCTs to manual

Old 09-23-2007, 03:57 PM
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Converted factory CCTs to manual

Hello every one I think I have found a way to convert the stock CCTs to manual adjust. So far the work great and wow did it make a difference in noise. Mine where at the point of failure so cought it just in time. If you want to know more just post and I will fill you guys in on the process.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/1429920766/
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Old 09-23-2007, 06:20 PM
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IF all you did was bottom a bolt against the "retracting screw" inside the CCT, your not quite there. The bolt needs to be fashioned like a common screwdriver tip so that it immobilizes the "retracting screw" from turning if CCT spring tension is lost. Like you, my stock CCT's had all but failed and locking up the adjuster so it could not back off, was still quite noisy since the spring had already become slack. I'm big into building, rigging, adjusting my own stuff and in the end... I felt satisfied burning the $97 to purchase the APE CCT's off eBay.
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Old 09-23-2007, 06:31 PM
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No I made some bushings to hold the arm and removed the screw assembly completly. The main bolt you see in the pic holds it tight while the bronze bushings you can't see keep axial play under control.
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Old 09-23-2007, 06:32 PM
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PS the total price of mods was less than ten dollars and takes an hour to do prepare both sides.
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Old 09-23-2007, 06:38 PM
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That sounds nice, I'm sick of the engine whine by bike makes, zzzzzzzzzeeeezzezeeeeeezzzzzzzzzeeeee.........
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Old 09-23-2007, 07:07 PM
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thats a good sound
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Old 09-25-2007, 01:40 PM
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I'd like a better idea of what's going on at the business end (the end that has the plunger-looking thing). How does it attach? Do you have any additional pics?
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:04 AM
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Well I forgot to take them before assembly and didn't feel like taking it appart. The plunger is original, I removed the slotted screw assembly from the housing. I then found bronze bushings that fir inside of the housing and have the right inside diameter to hold the plunger tight. Where the tension screw was is now the through bolt that you can see in the pics. I goes all the way through the housing and rests on the inside of the plunger. Between the bushing and the screw the plunger is very sturdy. I have about a hundred miles on them now and all is great. Other than mentioned mods the housing and design remained pretty much stock.
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Old 09-28-2007, 05:10 PM
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No oil leakage yet?
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Old 10-03-2007, 08:43 AM
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No sir I used a nylon washer on the cct nut and put a small dab of RTV on them when I adjusted them. Makes removal a little more difficult but keeps them sealed tight. I haven't even had a small dribble so far. Almost 200 miles now and still working great.
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