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Clutch issues

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Old Jun 14, 2022 | 10:28 AM
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Clutch issues
I just got my bike (1998 superhawk) back together. It started up right away and idles great just have one issue my clutch won’t engage. I have bled it quite a few time and the air is gone. I also had it running and pushed it down a hill and then put it in first and and it die. It kept turning over while coasting down the hill and I gave it gas but nothing happened. Just looking for ideas on what it could be. Thanks
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Old Jun 18, 2022 | 07:18 PM
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If you are 100% positive the line is air-free, double check the clutch pack and make sure you have everything in order. Was it taken apart?

7-8 must be correct orientation
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...er-hawk/clutch
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Old Jun 19, 2022 | 01:23 PM
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If memory serves, 12 also needs to be oriented correctly.
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Old Jun 19, 2022 | 03:20 PM
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Bleeding that thing is <ahem> a bitch. Take the mc off the bike, stand on your head, say 3 hail marijuanas, whilst pumping the air out. It only takes about 1 gal of fluid to get it done.
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Old Jun 21, 2022 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolverine
If you are 100% positive the line is air-free, double check the clutch pack and make sure you have everything in order. Was it taken apart?

7-8 must be correct orientation
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...er-hawk/clutch
I think I have a bigger issue I ain’t 100% sure it’s bled. I used to vacuum bleeder and it moves to clutch plates and I took them off and put oil on them and put them back according to the diagram. It looks like it should work it moves the clutch plates in and out. Unless 7-8 are very finicky because it’s kinda hard to tell of the diagram.
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Old Jun 22, 2022 | 04:29 PM
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If you can't get an air-free bleed, try the reverse method. I've had success with it frequently. Use a strong enough syringe to push fluid up to the res being careful to not overflow.
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Old Jun 23, 2022 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolverine
If you can't get an air-free bleed, try the reverse method. I've had success with it frequently. Use a strong enough syringe to push fluid up to the res being careful to not overflow.
My suggestion was a bit too flippant I guess. Anyway, what one should do is take the mc off, turn it upside down while pumping fluid through it. This mc is the toughest one I have ever had to bleed. Reverse bleed works, but...not as well as this method. YMMV. Best to you.
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Old Jul 9, 2022 | 02:38 PM
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I finally got it bled and it run mint but every once and a while I am downshifting it hits like a neutral. I can shift up fine.
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Old Jul 9, 2022 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Baker
I finally got it bled and it run mint but every once and a while I am downshifting it hits like a neutral. I can shift up fine.
What you are probably experiencing is a false neutral. Enjoyed one going into turn one while racing at BeaveRun Raceway in PA. A trip to the ER ensued...concussion, broken collar bone...but I digress. Try putting a bit of pressure on the shift lever before you downshift.
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 11:35 PM
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I sagest the shift kit shifting wheel and new spring and a real bearing.

You should have no problem getting it to blead with the vacuum pump into a jar setup. Before you start just fill it to the top open bleeder all the way keep it full and let it run for some time. Then do the vacuum pump. Keep the line from the bleeder up so air cannot go back in.

Make sure your plates are straight and clean. It will be grabby when starting out for a few times. You have to break them in and change the oil in half the time or your normal interval if you need some plates or friction disks I have a bunch of clutch stuff
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