Reason

She's running rich. Needs to be jetted but of course I want to save where I can. Is it possible/worth it to clean the stock air filter? HA-0011 from K&N's online store is $105. Other suggestions very welcome.

At least, I'm 99% sure it's currently stock, says Honda on it, orange paper.

skokievtr

Yes you can clean the OE air filter, which actually provides better filtration than a K&N; although a K&N does pass significantly more air and is designed to be cleaned, oiled and reused.

To clean the OE air filter, which must be in good condition and not badly soiled (i.e., totally black with heavy accumulations of dirt and oil), gently brush the filter red media with a relatively stiff fiber brush, use no more than 25 psi compressed air blown from the underside (perforated metal side), soak it for no more than 1/2 hour in luke-warm water mixed with a 15:1 ratio of potable water and Dawn or other grease cutting dish detergent, tap gently to remove excess water and again blow with low-pressure air, than allow to dry above 68 F until thoroughly dry. I've cleaned and reused the OE air filter as many as 3 times.

nuhawk

Yes, I would do everything I could to open the pipes. I mean from the carb through to the ***-end. It didn't just catch a bug and get rich - what has changed?

Reason

Thanks, skokie, I'll give that a shot. Toothbrush = fiber brush, right?

It's probably been like that since I got it but I was too ignorant to notice. When I had my APEs installed and the valves adjusted ("a few thou out"), the mechanic noticed the plug was black and hooked it up to their EGA, says it's rich. I can smell gas at stoplights.

With the colder weather it will no longer run with the choke out long enough to get warmed up, I have to baby it manually. I used to let it warm up while I installed my earplugs, helmet, and gloves, but now I can't get dressed for restarting the thing. If I don't pull the choke it won't stay lit, if I do pull the choke it'll idle high for less than 30 seconds then the RPMs dive and it quits.

Can't blip it at stoplights, either, have to rev it slowly off the bottom, or else it'll choke and die, even when it's warm.

I thought I was hearing a noise so I didn't ride it from July through about November, so the carbs may be a bit gummed, too, been putting Redline in it.

RK1

Is it running rich because the filter is totally clogged (how many miles are on the air filter?) or because you or the P.O. jetted it too rich? Do you have stock exhaust, "street baffle" slipons or "straight through" baffle slipons or a full exhaust system? Respectfully, more information would make it easier for folks to give intelligent advice.

Also, a replacement OEM Honda filter is 45 bucks from Ronayers.com if you want to go that way.

Reason

The filter isn't totally clogged, but there is dirt visible. I haven't jetted it, but the PO or his mechanic may have. The PO didn't speak well of the guy, and I've noticed a few things that I thought were... dumb. (It's been streetfightered and the aftermarket indicator lights were cleverly installed with the drain holes facing up, and also the helmet reminder sticker was masked off instead of being removed when the tank was painted.)

It has D&D cans, I didn't install them. How do I tell which of the options listed it could be?

RK1

Sounds like the same guy who used to own my house! I think all the D&D cans have straight through baffles (loud) and it's best to rejet with them. I thinking with stock exhaust on the bike the air filter would have to be really dirty to make it run as rich as described unless it's been rejeted rich or something else is going on. Probably best to pull and open the carbs to see what you have.