CCT re-adjust question
#1
CCT re-adjust question
I installed Krieger manual tensioners on my wifes 2002 'Hawk. She has now ridden it about 200 miles since then and there are no oil leaks and it runs very well. However, there is a ticking noise at idle that seems to go away with any throttle at all. The clutch is noisy. I know about that. The valves were in spec when I checked them while the valve covers were off. And I've been playing with the exhaust junctions and it doesn't seem to be exhaust. Am I correct in thinking that a loose CCT and chain would NOT sound like a tick, tick, tick, but a constant sound? I adjusted them both to about 5mm of play between the sprockets with the guides removed. The noise seems to be loudest in the front cylinder in the front or right side front. The bike was ridden very little before I replaced the CCT and I don't know if the ticking was there before.
Also, is it easier to adjust the CCT on the front cylinder by removing the radiator hose from the thermostat? I may try to loosen, tighten the CCT. Unless someone says that a certain level of ticking is "normal".
Also, is it easier to adjust the CCT on the front cylinder by removing the radiator hose from the thermostat? I may try to loosen, tighten the CCT. Unless someone says that a certain level of ticking is "normal".
#2
Right now you know how much play there is in the cam chains. If you tighten them, you'll worry about them being too tight. If you loosen them, you'll worry about them being too loose. If tightening and loosening them doesn't affect the noise, you'll worry about getting the CCT's back to their original state of adjustment. You wrote "...it runs very well." Isn't that the whole point?
#4
I have the same situation after fitting Kreigers .
The noise drove me mad. I checked everything numerous times, it was driving me nuts.
That was a long time ago and I have spoken to a lot of people about this and it would appear that most experience a different engine sound when fitting manual CCTs.
If you are satisfied that the slack is correct I would live with it like I have.
You will get used to it. My front cylinder definitely sounds different, the noise is almost metallic. Best thing is you can't hear it when you are riding.
Good luck, if you do happen to eliminate the noise please let everyone know.
The noise drove me mad. I checked everything numerous times, it was driving me nuts.
That was a long time ago and I have spoken to a lot of people about this and it would appear that most experience a different engine sound when fitting manual CCTs.
If you are satisfied that the slack is correct I would live with it like I have.
You will get used to it. My front cylinder definitely sounds different, the noise is almost metallic. Best thing is you can't hear it when you are riding.
Good luck, if you do happen to eliminate the noise please let everyone know.
#5
Kenmore. Your description is SPOT ON. Metallic. Front cylinder area and can't hear it while riding. Idling only. This is exactly what I had hoped to hear. Thanks so much. I rode it to work today and kinda got on it this time. Nothing odd happened. Its a fun bike to ride and the exhaust note is very nice too. The noise is more pronounced when the engine heats up. Just the opposite of a loose valve. OK then. I'll try to ignore it.
Last edited by ZERO; 02-12-2015 at 01:22 PM.
#6
Yes, the hotter the bike the louder the noise.
Actually that noise is how I came to have an electric water pump, I thought the noise was coming from the water pump.
I can assure you that I have flogged the VTR on the road and track over an extended period and have had no problems except when I pull up.
The bloody thing sounds rattley , almost like a Ducati.
I hate rattles in engines but have learnt to live with it.
Enjoy the bike, but be careful they can get under your skin and then you get the dreaded OCMD syndrome! It can be very hazardous to your bank account!
Actually that noise is how I came to have an electric water pump, I thought the noise was coming from the water pump.
I can assure you that I have flogged the VTR on the road and track over an extended period and have had no problems except when I pull up.
The bloody thing sounds rattley , almost like a Ducati.
I hate rattles in engines but have learnt to live with it.
Enjoy the bike, but be careful they can get under your skin and then you get the dreaded OCMD syndrome! It can be very hazardous to your bank account!
#7
This may help put your mind at ease. Or, it will help you pin point where the noise comes from.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Me.../dp/B0002SQYSM
And if doesn't work on the bike, well, then you can try it on the wife. Maybe you'll have more luck there.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Me.../dp/B0002SQYSM
And if doesn't work on the bike, well, then you can try it on the wife. Maybe you'll have more luck there.
#8
I used a mechanics stethoscope and that's why I thought the water pump was shot!
I rebuilt the water pump and still the noise persisted.
Ended up going electric because I saw it on here and thought it was a good idea.
I am now at the point where I believe it's the way the manuals push on the guide, and that there are some harmonics at play because of the difference in construction of the manual tensioner.
Bike howls ( Goes Well )so best to live with it.,if I ever find the answer I will shout it from the hilltops!
I rebuilt the water pump and still the noise persisted.
Ended up going electric because I saw it on here and thought it was a good idea.
I am now at the point where I believe it's the way the manuals push on the guide, and that there are some harmonics at play because of the difference in construction of the manual tensioner.
Bike howls ( Goes Well )so best to live with it.,if I ever find the answer I will shout it from the hilltops!
#9
Chris.
#10
There is no metal to metal contact between the chain and adjuster. The adjuster pushes on the guide that touches the chain.
#11
Perhaps I didn't explain it very well. What I mean is the cam chain tensioner blade is mounted on a metal arm, it's the metal arm that rests up against the CCT plunger head.
I realise the OEM standard CCT has a metal cap on the plunger head, but there is rubber between the metal cap and the rest of the CCT. So if any tapping sounds did occur at the point where the CCT touches the metal arm, the rubber would not allow them to be transferred to the rest of the engine.
Without that break created by the rubber, if there was a tapping sound at that point I'm thinking could the sound now possibly become amplified?
It's only an idea.
You also have to take into account the OEM standard CCT self adjusts, whereas the manual CCT's are set at a happy medium so there will be more slack in the cam chain with manual CCT's fitted at tick over.
Chris.
Last edited by ripvanwinkle; 02-14-2015 at 03:29 AM.
#12
I agree there is no contact between the cam chain and the CCT and I wasn't meaning there was.
Perhaps I didn't explain it very well. What I mean is the cam chain tensioner blade is mounted on a metal arm, it's the metal arm that rests up against the CCT plunger head.
I realise the OEM standard CCT has a metal cap on the plunger head, but there is rubber between the metal cap and the rest of the CCT. So if any tapping sounds did occur at the point where the CCT touches the metal arm, the rubber would not allow them to be transferred to the rest of the engine.
Without that break created by the rubber, if there was a tapping sound at that point I'm thinking could the sound now possibly become amplified?
It's only an idea.
You also have to take into account the OEM standard CCT self adjusts, whereas the manual CCT's are set at a happy medium so there will be more slack in the cam chain with manual CCT's fitted at tick over.
Chris.
Perhaps I didn't explain it very well. What I mean is the cam chain tensioner blade is mounted on a metal arm, it's the metal arm that rests up against the CCT plunger head.
I realise the OEM standard CCT has a metal cap on the plunger head, but there is rubber between the metal cap and the rest of the CCT. So if any tapping sounds did occur at the point where the CCT touches the metal arm, the rubber would not allow them to be transferred to the rest of the engine.
Without that break created by the rubber, if there was a tapping sound at that point I'm thinking could the sound now possibly become amplified?
It's only an idea.
You also have to take into account the OEM standard CCT self adjusts, whereas the manual CCT's are set at a happy medium so there will be more slack in the cam chain with manual CCT's fitted at tick over.
Chris.
#13
Chris, I know that I was most satisfied with my manual adjusters when I had set them running at idle and fully warmed up. I loosened one at a time, restarted and listened for the drop in idle as I tightened. At that point, I back off until the idle goes back up to the normal level. Even cold she idles smooth at a low rpm with the choke off.
My contribution to this thread are in response to the op question, nothing more,
Chris.
Last edited by ripvanwinkle; 02-18-2015 at 02:22 AM.
#14
An update.
I synched the carbs and did an oil and filter change about 700 miles ago and the engine is dead silent and happy.
Looks like this could have been a carb slide noise.
Thanks.
I synched the carbs and did an oil and filter change about 700 miles ago and the engine is dead silent and happy.
Looks like this could have been a carb slide noise.
Thanks.
#15
That is some good "shouting from the mountain tops" there. Thank you for letting us know, and I am going to check my carb syncing again myself.
Now that you have that squared away, I think it's time for you to start shopping for another bike! You only have 4 so far.
Now that you have that squared away, I think it's time for you to start shopping for another bike! You only have 4 so far.
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