CentralCoaster

Any tips here?

Prev owner installed manual cct's but it seems like I'm getting more noise than I should from down there.

Is the stock spring left in place, and the bolt just provides a backup, or is the bolt doing all of the tensioning?

Also what is the life expectancy on these chains? The bike has 20k miles on it. On a car, I'd say 75-100k for timing chains or whenever you crack it open, so on this I'd guess half of that since it revs twice as high on average.

I do have a valve cover leak, so maybe I'll dig into a little regardless.

CentralCoaster

Bump. Come on at least tell me to "use the search function noob!"

drew_c14

If you're willing to take off the valve covers you can measure the slack on the chain itself. That's the best method. Once you have the valve cover off, remove the chain guide at the top in between the cams and measure the slack just like you would the chain for the rear tire.

I just got out of bed so I can't remember what the tension should be, but it's in the manual.

smack doogle

Manual CCT's shouldn't have a spring. All you should do is loosen the locking nut, turn the CCT finger tight then back off 1/4 turn and then tighten it down with the locking nut. At least that is what the APE Manual CCT directions call for. Should be simple. If I'm wrong hopefully someone will chime in but that's what was called for upon installation of my Manual CCT's.

Streaky

There isn't a spring on the manual CTT.
I'd suggest warming up the bike and letting it idle while you adjust it. Then slowly adjusting (tighten first) the CTT where you hear the noise. It should go away if that is the problem. You won't hurt the bike as long as you aren't on/off the throttle when the CTT is really loose.

Chime in gear-heads - if I'm wrong.

CentralCoaster

Sounds good to me!