Carb Rebuild... Pay or DIY?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 395
From: Alameda, CA
Carb Rebuild... Pay or DIY?
The Honda shop wants $350 (to start with) to take the whole fuel system apart and clean and rebuild. Is it worth it, or should I attempt to do it myself for the first time?
I am on a limited budget for now, and I dont have much time so either way it sucks!
Whats ya'lls input?
The bike is a 99 with about 23000 miles.
I am on a limited budget for now, and I dont have much time so either way it sucks!
Whats ya'lls input?
The bike is a 99 with about 23000 miles.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 105
From: Hudson Valley, New York
It all depends on your confidence level, and only you can say for sure whether you're up to it. I paid more than that for my local independent shop to clean, balance, and jet my carbs, but the results are worth it: the bike idles smoothly down around 1,000 RPM, the throttle response is crisper, and it hardly even has the popping in the exhaust on deceleration anymore (my PAIR is still intact). I can't remember the last time I had one of the carb backfires/hiccups. One caveat - make sure your shop knows what they're doing if you go this route, and don't let them give the task to their greenest mechanic. My shop is a Ducati specialist, and there are quirks to tuning V-twins that need to be accounted for. If you go solo, you might want to see if you can get some advice as to the sizes of jets you might go with - I'm sure there's guys here than can help. I'm a carbophobe; all those little tiny parts and orifices scare me and my big clumsy hands, so I considered it money well spent.
Let us know how you make out!
Let us know how you make out!
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,452
From: San Clemente, CA
Motorcycle carbs are pretty simple compared to some of the automotive carbs, but the part that tries your patience, at least the first time, is pulling the carbs from the Superhawk. If you're not confident at tearing into it, or you've never worked on a carburetor, going to a good shop might be the best bet.
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 505
From: Twin Cities
I say do it yourself. It will take some time but definatley be easier on the wallet. Get a manual and do tons of research right here. You will learn something about how your bike works that will also apply to many other things. If it's still in stock form you could get rid of some things while you're in there to make the next time easier. PAIR and carb heaters mainly.
Moderator
MotoGP
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,708
I say do it yourself. Pretty simple job overall, and all it should cost you is a couple cans of carb cleaner. A few words of advice;
-Be sure not to over-tighten the plastic choke nuts.
-Use a bristle from a wire brush to clean out all passage ways.
-Carb cleaner and compressed air are your best friend, but don't get any on the slide diaphrams... it will cause them to expand making installation a bitch.
-Check for rings on the rubber tip of the float needle. Sometimes you can remove the rings by spraying some carb cleaner on a rag, then spinning the needle on it.
-Use a piece of a scotch brite pad to clean the needle seat, make it shine... mother polish works well too.
- be aware that the main jets, emulsion tubes and needles are different in each carb.
-Bench test the carbs before installing them.
I may of forgotten a few things but I'm sure someone will chime in.
-Be sure not to over-tighten the plastic choke nuts.
-Use a bristle from a wire brush to clean out all passage ways.
-Carb cleaner and compressed air are your best friend, but don't get any on the slide diaphrams... it will cause them to expand making installation a bitch.
-Check for rings on the rubber tip of the float needle. Sometimes you can remove the rings by spraying some carb cleaner on a rag, then spinning the needle on it.
-Use a piece of a scotch brite pad to clean the needle seat, make it shine... mother polish works well too.
- be aware that the main jets, emulsion tubes and needles are different in each carb.
-Bench test the carbs before installing them.
I may of forgotten a few things but I'm sure someone will chime in.
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,547
From: Way Out West
I'd try this first;
Buy a quart of Yamaha Carb Cleaner. Drain the float bowls and close the valves.
Pull the fuel lines at the tank and pour cleaner in each until full. Hit the kill switch and crank the engine for a couple seconds.
Let it sit for a few hours rocking the bike now and then. Worked perfect for me on a bike which sat a lot more than a year.
Fuel tank can be the bigger problem, if it smells like turpentine, if the gas has turned to gunk, especially if you've got some rust on the bottom.
Buy a quart of Yamaha Carb Cleaner. Drain the float bowls and close the valves.
Pull the fuel lines at the tank and pour cleaner in each until full. Hit the kill switch and crank the engine for a couple seconds.
Let it sit for a few hours rocking the bike now and then. Worked perfect for me on a bike which sat a lot more than a year.
Fuel tank can be the bigger problem, if it smells like turpentine, if the gas has turned to gunk, especially if you've got some rust on the bottom.
2nd mouse gets the cheese
SuperBike
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,697
From: Beaverton, OR
I'd try this first;
Buy a quart of Yamaha Carb Cleaner. Drain the float bowls and close the valves.
Pull the fuel lines at the tank and pour cleaner in each until full. Hit the kill switch and crank the engine for a couple seconds.
Let it sit for a few hours rocking the bike now and then. Worked perfect for me on a bike which sat a lot more than a year.
Fuel tank can be the bigger problem, if it smells like turpentine, if the gas has turned to gunk, especially if you've got some rust on the bottom.
Buy a quart of Yamaha Carb Cleaner. Drain the float bowls and close the valves.
Pull the fuel lines at the tank and pour cleaner in each until full. Hit the kill switch and crank the engine for a couple seconds.
Let it sit for a few hours rocking the bike now and then. Worked perfect for me on a bike which sat a lot more than a year.
Fuel tank can be the bigger problem, if it smells like turpentine, if the gas has turned to gunk, especially if you've got some rust on the bottom.
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