Letsrideinsc

Nope didn't get it started yet, sounds real good when turning over, you know...the compression pops from the engine turning over sound really healthy so my suspicion about the timing being off is now focused on the air/gas. You were right Greg! I didn't connect the breather tube to the petcock! I just saw that after your post, thank you!!!! Still not running, I ran the battery dead trying to start all afternoon. I'm throwing it on the charger now, I'll get to it tomorrow night, maybe tonight.

I've tried the combination of venting and blocking the big T-fitting between the carbs, still not starting either way.

Letsrideinsc

awwwww soooooo, sure enough, I connected it to the bottom nipple on the petcock by stupidity, I've switched it out! Thanks for all these little hints that are soooo important. You guys are a big help. I'll post once the battery is charged and let you know what happened next! Big suspense.

Letsrideinsc

still not starting #$%*&^%!!!!!

iscoot

WOW!!! what timing, just pulled the same retarded maneuver!!!! thanks guys.
should be motoring now.

Hawkrider

It takes a while to prime the carbs again. You have to get some vacuum to the petcock in order to flow. Your bowls are dry at this point. It will take some cranking. Use lots of choke.

roisman

Hi! do any of you have pics of the APE CCT's, just wondering what they look like. Thanks!!

ATLSHawk98

alright - i think that i am ready to put my SuperHawk back together. as you may tell from the time between my posts, i don't get much time to work on my bike. i have currently completed all of the below:

1) bike encountered front cylinder CCT failure while driving (idle speed)
2) i replaced both CCT's with a few errors along the way
3) then corrected timing for both cylinders (definitely had some valve-to-piston contact under ratchet or starter power)
4) performed compression check on both cylinders (cold engine results 122psi-front, 130psi-rear)
5) then performed valve clearance check for all valves. all clearances seem to be within spec. the intake valves on both cylinders seem to be exactly 0.006 with a very even and constant resistance to insertion of gauge (0.007 will not fit with force and 0.005 is too loose). the exhaust valves on both cylinders seems to a little "tighter" on the 0.012 gauge and the 0.013 will even fit in some of them with a little force. the 0.011 has slightly less resistance but is still "snug" in all of the exhaust valves. there is not the definite feeling about "yes or no" with the exhaust valves that there is with the intake.

here is the moral of the story. the compression check shows far lower numbers than spec - but the spec number of 164psi is with a warm engine that i cannot produce right now. i am not sure what the variance should be between a cold and warm engine. also, all valve clearances seems within spec (or tighter). if there was valve or valve seat damage in all of my ordeal, there should be valve clearances far above spec - correct??? i do not know any other checks or inspections to do at this point to make sure that all is well with my repairs. if anyone has information about my compression figures and or valve clearances, or know of anything else to check or double check short or removing the heads - please let me know.

i have been really appreciative of all the info and knowledge that people have come forth with since i started this thread. anybody that has any ideas / experience / tips - please pass them on. i really do hope that i am at the point of reassembly and getting her back on the road. it is still 70 degrees in december here in atlanta - i really have the itch to get back on 2 wheels!!!

thanks for any help!

RCVTR

I'm not sure, but the front and rear cylinder compression numbers are reasonably close to each other. That likely indicates that the front valves are seating properly. I also agree that valve clearance is a good indicator that things are ok. Compression numbers should improve subtantially with a hot engine. I haven't read the rest of the thread. Do you know how far the chain jumped?
Good luck!

ATLSHawk98

thanks for the reply - any others offering advice or wishes of good luck? as soon as i find a spark plug socket with thin enough walls to fit down in the head - i will reinstall plugs - and hopefully fire her up today. anyone else with info please let me know!

Thanks!

ATLSHawk98

after all of my sorted problems and issues - she is running again! i definintely have learned a lot about the superhawk in this repair. cranked her up a minute ago and went down the street on her (minus fairing). she runs like a dream again! will finish the fairing work this afternoon and be out on 2 again tonight !!!!!

thanks again everybody for all of your help!

Hawkrider

Good job on the repair. Although at times it must've been pretty frustrating and it took you longer, you still saved $$ and learned a lot!

Letsrideinsc

Thanks! But it still sits in my living room not starting. I have been informed by a honda tech that I might have split a diaphram in the petcock when I incorrectly installed the vacuum line. I started a new job so I haven't had the motivation to dig back into her.