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Cam Alignment- Ape Tensioners

Old 06-10-2012, 08:17 PM
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Cam Alignment- Ape Tensioners

A couple questions/topics:
1.My flywheel with the FT mark does not properly align the front markers. I am under the impression that only one of the cams can be off, so if they both marks align does the position on the flywheel matter?
2. These appear to be in line to me, besides the variation on the flywheel. Whats your opinion from the shitty photos.
3. Which Cam on each cylinder is the static one. Which one should be rotated incase they are off, what is proper way to rotate the non baseline(static) cam.
4. Now that my case covers are off, what is a good way to adjust tension on my APE's. Something Caused the clicking noise I heard, maybe a tensioner was too tight or too loose, but not enough to skip?

Rear Cam Picture:
Both Cam's are slightly raised on the right side using the engine case as a guide. They are equally raised when compared to the case. I believe this to be the same issue as the front cam, but it is much harder for me to turn the flywheel and line up the cams on the rear.


Front Cams:

The picture below might look slightly off but each is slightly raised on the left side part of the case, and slightly lower on the right side based on each cam.

The T in "FT" on the front cylinder:

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Old 06-10-2012, 08:26 PM
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Thats how mine are... the mark goes parallel with the top of the head... with the cylinder on tdc tighten the apes finger tight...
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:30 PM
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First you do need to have the timing mark linded up correctly.

Then lay a straight edge on the head and use that to see if the cams are actually in the right place.

Without knowing how the timing mark was lined up the picks look like there are off by 1 tooth but that is the problem with "eyeballing" it....

Line up the timing mark and use the straight edge...yes it is critical
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk View Post
First you do need to have the timing mark linded up correctly.

Then lay a straight edge on the head and use that to see if the cams are actually in the right place.

Without knowing how the timing mark was lined up the picks look like there are off by 1 tooth but that is the problem with "eyeballing" it....

Line up the timing mark and use the straight edge...yes it is critical
When the FT timing mark is lined up correctly the front (possibly back too) would be off by 3-4 teeth evenly each sprocket. Which is not possible..
In the thread in the knowledge base someone pointed out that there are supposed to be 18 links/36pins between each FI/FE... RI/RE mark and I just went out to count, I have 18 on the front and back cylinder. My guess is the chain has stretched?

I also hate the term finger tighten. I tightened each tensioner until my pointer and thumb finger couldn't turn the bolt anymore then I backed them out 1/4 of a turn.

Last edited by WordTooYoMamma; 06-10-2012 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:15 PM
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The cams appear to be in time with each other. However it's hard saying on the crank. I know mine weren't perfectly lined up either. This is caused by manufacturing tolarances not being perfect, and the chain stretching over time. If the cam sprockets were off from each other by even 1 tooth it'd be very obvious even without a straight edge.

I would note where the teeth are and rotate the crank to line the marks up, then see where the marks would be if you moved them one tooth. If it'd be further out than what it is now I'd leave it the way it is. If they'd be closer then move them. The other thing you could do if you have the right tools and really wanted to take the time is actually degree them in with a degree wheel and dial indicator that'd be the absolute best.
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:16 PM
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Sigh. ReReRe-Read the ape knowledge thread, I am obviously over tightening the bolts in addition to everything else.

Last edited by WordTooYoMamma; 06-11-2012 at 12:49 AM.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:14 AM
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Are you on the compression stroke when checking tdc? Also, finger tight on the apes is a starting point for adjustment. It is usually enough for most people, but chain slack should be measured also.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:27 AM
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If he wasn't on the compression stroke the FE and R1 marks would be upside down.

When I installed my MCCT's I had started the engine and twisted it with my fingers until it didn't want to go anymore and tightened it up. This was to tight as there were times I could hear a howling sound from the chaint being to tight against the guides if I'd crank it over with the run switch off so that it wouldn't start. I backed it off about 1/4 turn and it seems to be good now.
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