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Brake in period for a 00 superchicken?

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Old 04-15-2011, 04:54 AM
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Brake in period for a 00 superchicken?

Hello all,
I am a newbe here as well as a noob to the superhawk. Anyway, I just found myself to be the owner of a "new" 2000 superhawk. I say new because it has 1600 total miles on it . Story is the bike was bought in 2001 then just after it was picked up the owner ended up in prison for a 10 year stretch that just ended. Anyway he just got out & needed money to help get back on his feet.
Yes, it's been in inside storage the whole time & just came from the Honda dealer getting full fluid changes & carb cleaning done. To the point of the post I am wondering about if there is a brake in period & or things that I shouldn't do as in higher RPM's ECT. for the 1st few. Also, what adjustment should be checked or made after it pass's say 2500 miles?
Thank you in advance.
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:45 AM
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Lucky, Yes Luck find... Only advice i would offer..Always check oil level and tire pressure before ever ride(quick, easy insurance) Let the bike get to operating temperatures. And ride within your skill riding level..
You will experience that the Superhawk "Doesn't" need to be Rev'ed out of the frame to get your power...
Welcome to the forum... Bsafe(dress for the wreck, not just for the ride)
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:55 AM
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Thank you for the response. The low end grunt is the main reason I picked the bike up & I fully understand what your saying. My last "sport" bike was a Buell M2 that I did in streetfighter fashion. It was fun as could be, but the vibration in that thing had literally shook it apart. I have been riding for near 24 years now & am lucky enough to have a job where I travel my 4 state area doing around 300-400 miles a day & I can ride it if I want. With a good part of my traveling being in the Ozark mountains I wanted a bike that had the low end grunt to handle it without thinking.
My big concern at this point is insuring that I keep up on any adjustment's that may need to be done as the miles grow. I am looking to keep this bike for a fair amount of time and want to keep it reliable being most days I am in the middle of nowhere with only gas stations around & bike dealers/parts stores hours away at times.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:01 AM
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pay close attention to everything on the bike looking for leaks. Having set that long, many of the seals have had lots of opportunity to dry out. I'd suggest over the next several hundred miles you take it easy and not put too much pressure on the engine to give it time to "break in". pay attention to the fuel path, from the petcock to the carbs. Also fluids, both oil and coolant. did you have clutch and brake fluids changed?

Good find. enjoy the bike!!!
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:15 AM
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Welcome to the forum.

With 24 years of riding under your belt, shouldn't your handle be: bikeguyinok ?
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:42 AM
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Thank you, I will be paying VERY close attention to everything for the 1st few hundred/thousand miles. It may have been sitting still all these years. But it was in his parents garage and his father would fire it up & let it get to temp every other month or so. Don't get me wrong I won't trust that as God's word. But it does look to be the case & the guy's at the shop said the carbs really didn't need much attention at all.
Yes, all the fluids where changed out. The only flaw's I can put on it are some of the bolt heads have surface rust and need a good cleaning & the brake and clutch reservoir both are showing their age on the outside. Inside the dealer said they looked just fine & it was cosmetic at best.
I would think that the dealer would have said something if the fuel lines looked weak. But I may just replace them to call it good insurance. Is it just standard fuel line? Or are there plastic tubes that can dry out & crack?
Thank you.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by nekkid
Welcome to the forum.

With 24 years of riding under your belt, shouldn't your handle be: bikeguyinok ?
Funny, but cars are more of my passion.
This was my last project. 1940 (race rod)Name:  Mypics0361.jpg
Views: 17
Size:  7.0 KB

But custom bikes are becoming more & more even in that as the cost of fuel grows.
This was my 2000 Buell M2 build
Name:  Mypics142.jpg
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Size:  7.5 KB
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Old 04-15-2011, 05:45 PM
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the best and most reliable break in period that is tried tested and true and all our lives have depended upon is that of air planes. They were/are broken in at close to and neat/at max operating thresholds. IMO don't feel sorry for a motor, it needs to break in and if you have regular maint you will be fine. we don't see planes falling out of the sky regularly do we?
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:39 PM
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Thank you all

Thank you to everyone who replied. But, as most things that look 2 good 2 be true that was the case here. I went over as I said I would to pay for & pick up the bike. Only when it came down for the time of handing over the title for the cash..... Well, not only was it a salvage title but it was also marked for TMU "true mileage unknown" Needless to say I dont own a superhawk Some peoples children........
O-well, at least it was only a loss in fuel & time. Some day I will find one. It just suck's having your hopes up only to have the rug pulled out from under you.
Again TY all.
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 20_rc51_00
the best and most reliable break in period that is tried tested and true and all our lives have depended upon is that of air planes. They were/are broken in at close to and neat/at max operating thresholds. IMO don't feel sorry for a motor, it needs to break in and if you have regular maint you will be fine. we don't see planes falling out of the sky regularly do we?
Aircraft engines (turbines and jets) are a completely different animal and the only close tolerance parts in contact with each other are the bearings and therefore are able to operate at full potential from birth.

The following excerpt is from Teledyne-Continental Motors Inc, maker of many, many piston powered aircraft engines:

"Your engine was operated on a factory test cell before leaving Teledyne
Continental Motors. However, complete ring seating has not occurred and
must be accomplished during the first 25 hours of engine operation after
installation."

Perhaps we don't see planes falling out of the sky is because mechanics and pilots read the maintenance manuals?
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RWhisen
Aircraft engines (turbines and jets) are a completely different animal and the only close tolerance parts in contact with each other are the bearings and therefore are able to operate at full potential from birth.

The following excerpt is from Teledyne-Continental Motors Inc, maker of many, many piston powered aircraft engines:

"Your engine was operated on a factory test cell before leaving Teledyne
Continental Motors. However, complete ring seating has not occurred and
must be accomplished during the first 25 hours of engine operation after
installation."

Perhaps we don't see planes falling out of the sky is because mechanics and pilots read the maintenance manuals?

what is the "break in" that they suggest?
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 20_rc51_00
what is the "break in" that they suggest?
The operation and maintenance manuals of Teledyne-Continental engines are on line if you wish to read them and familiarize yourself with piston powered aircraft engine break in procedures.

http://www.tcmlink.com/visitors/carenfeed/brkin.pdf

And yes, I am a licensed (A&P) aircraft mechanic.

Last edited by RWhisen; 04-19-2011 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:43 PM
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Just to throw gas on the fire: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

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