Bike wont start and cant get my seat off!!
08-10-2010, 07:10 AM
#1
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 16
Bike wont start and cant get my seat off!!
Man, so I come home try to start my bike and it wont turn over. I pull the choke out and pull the cluth in and try again, it still wont turn over. I say maybe if I give it some time! TRy again later all I get is a faint "tick tick" noise. I try again and I get nothing. Now none of my lights will turn on and the lights on the dash are very faint. The bike has been sitting about 2 months with me going in there turning it on and rev it up to keep the batt alive every other day. WHat it the problem? Is it the fuse, batt or alternator? Also how the hell do I get this seat off?
08-10-2010, 07:25 AM
#2
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Asheville, North Carolina
Posts: 949
I am going to jump in (before one of the ELDERS of KNOWLEDGE tear you a new one)
First of all- CALL your local dealer / or mechanic - who will pick it up and service your bike and Demonstrate how to remove the seat from your bike...
First of all- CALL your local dealer / or mechanic - who will pick it up and service your bike and Demonstrate how to remove the seat from your bike...
08-10-2010, 07:31 AM
#3
the boss
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: largo,fl
Posts: 1,182
sounds like to me the battery is just dying,its good to have a battery maintainer,just starting it here and there is not enough,but when you do get seat off,check fuses,wire contacts to battery,starter relay,bad or rusty connections will impeade the starting of it.
as the seat goes,theres a key hole on the bottom of the tail light,turn key,grab the back,edge of seat and give it a pull back and up,it needs to slide about a inch before it will come out.
as the seat goes,theres a key hole on the bottom of the tail light,turn key,grab the back,edge of seat and give it a pull back and up,it needs to slide about a inch before it will come out.
08-10-2010, 07:32 AM
#4
Senior Member
Superstock
Superstock
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 293
Pshaw! Don't give the dealer money for things not needed. 
I assume you are using your key in the keyhole back by the license plate to unlatch the seat? If you are, then it's possible that the mechanism is gummy and not releasing or the cable is stiff...
As far as the battery, it could just be that the battery is weak, and that a charge could bring it back. Or it could be that your regulator/rectifier is failing and the battery is dead from prolonged overcharging. Either way, you're going to have to get the bike running to discover that, and there is plenty of R/R info in the knowledge base section of the forum.
Cheers,
R
I assume you are using your key in the keyhole back by the license plate to unlatch the seat? If you are, then it's possible that the mechanism is gummy and not releasing or the cable is stiff...As far as the battery, it could just be that the battery is weak, and that a charge could bring it back. Or it could be that your regulator/rectifier is failing and the battery is dead from prolonged overcharging. Either way, you're going to have to get the bike running to discover that, and there is plenty of R/R info in the knowledge base section of the forum.
Cheers,
R
08-10-2010, 07:59 AM
#5
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Delmar NY
Posts: 805
+1
Also starting your bike and reving it every other day prolly isn't enough charge the battery and the repeated cold starts aren't good for the engine. Get a tender if you aren't going to ride for a while
http://www.harborfreight.com/automat...ger-42292.html
Also starting your bike and reving it every other day prolly isn't enough charge the battery and the repeated cold starts aren't good for the engine. Get a tender if you aren't going to ride for a while
http://www.harborfreight.com/automat...ger-42292.html
08-10-2010, 07:33 PM
#9
the boss
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: largo,fl
Posts: 1,182
try using car bettery just to turn over,wont hurt the bike,if still wont start,disconnect battery and take the starter solenid off,clean all contacts and put back on,that could be going bad,mine did that once,ever since i took it off and put in electrical grease,it worked fine.
really sound like bad battery but still keep in mind,could be r/r going bad too.
really sound like bad battery but still keep in mind,could be r/r going bad too.
08-10-2010, 08:03 PM
#10
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 4,138
This is a dead battery. Don't make it worse by wildly guessing. The battery is the cheapest and mostly likely to fail in the whole scheme of things. If the bike has been outside check the connections under the back of the tank.
If you're tight for cash the $50 batteries from the auto retailers aren't all bad. I just crossed 14K on the Interceptor. It's on its second battery in 12k miles.
If you're tight for cash the $50 batteries from the auto retailers aren't all bad. I just crossed 14K on the Interceptor. It's on its second battery in 12k miles.
08-11-2010, 03:38 AM
#11
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: In a van down by the river (I wish!)
Posts: 617
My money is on the battery, too, and the tender idea is good, especially if you're having seat issues.
To be fair on that: The SH seat can be a b*tch to remove. My old Buell had a wing nut holding the seat on. With the VTR you need to be a master of double-jointed kama sutra to get the bastard off.
To be fair on that: The SH seat can be a b*tch to remove. My old Buell had a wing nut holding the seat on. With the VTR you need to be a master of double-jointed kama sutra to get the bastard off.
08-11-2010, 04:00 AM
#12
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Why not just remove the hooks? Unless you think the seat will magically pop of with your weight holding it down, the only purpose those hooks serve is to annoy you... And if you are ever in a position where the hooks could or could not hold the seat to the bike you won't care anyways, since you will then be sliding along side by side with the bike... They do however actually increase "break in" security... But considering how easily I can break in with them, or just smash the whole thing, and the small space and value of stored things... Well, I doubt that's an issue really...
08-11-2010, 06:00 AM
#13
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
Maybe my bike is just getting "old", but I can just yank the seat off without the key. The seat is so flimsy that it bends enough to pop off of the hooks.
Oh, and yeah, it sounds like the battery for sure. The faint lights are the give-away. I second trying to jump-start it with a car. I had to do that quite often before I fixed my R/R (which caused a drained battery over time and exactly what you are describing, "tick-tick" noise and all). If you can get it going with a car, then replace your battery.
And think about buying a cheap multimeter (around 20-30 bucks should be ok). I got one and I've found many more uses for it than I thought I would. An old bike will have weird, annoying, and frequent electrical problems, and you can't really figure out what's going on without a multimeter.
Oh, and yeah, it sounds like the battery for sure. The faint lights are the give-away. I second trying to jump-start it with a car. I had to do that quite often before I fixed my R/R (which caused a drained battery over time and exactly what you are describing, "tick-tick" noise and all). If you can get it going with a car, then replace your battery.
And think about buying a cheap multimeter (around 20-30 bucks should be ok). I got one and I've found many more uses for it than I thought I would. An old bike will have weird, annoying, and frequent electrical problems, and you can't really figure out what's going on without a multimeter.
08-11-2010, 07:00 AM
#14
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Maybe my bike is just getting "old", but I can just yank the seat off without the key. The seat is so flimsy that it bends enough to pop off of the hooks.
Oh, and yeah, it sounds like the battery for sure. The faint lights are the give-away. I second trying to jump-start it with a car. I had to do that quite often before I fixed my R/R (which caused a drained battery over time and exactly what you are describing, "tick-tick" noise and all). If you can get it going with a car, then replace your battery.
And think about buying a cheap multimeter (around 20-30 bucks should be ok). I got one and I've found many more uses for it than I thought I would. An old bike will have weird, annoying, and frequent electrical problems, and you can't really figure out what's going on without a multimeter.
Oh, and yeah, it sounds like the battery for sure. The faint lights are the give-away. I second trying to jump-start it with a car. I had to do that quite often before I fixed my R/R (which caused a drained battery over time and exactly what you are describing, "tick-tick" noise and all). If you can get it going with a car, then replace your battery.
And think about buying a cheap multimeter (around 20-30 bucks should be ok). I got one and I've found many more uses for it than I thought I would. An old bike will have weird, annoying, and frequent electrical problems, and you can't really figure out what's going on without a multimeter.
08-11-2010, 07:33 AM
#15
Moderate-whore
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Leander TX!!
Posts: 9,049
I recommend that you read this thread from top to bottom, none stop, and report back with what you think it is..Self diagnostic is the key...it will also help with the seat issue..
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=10950
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=10950
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