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Bike won't start any more.

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Old May 6, 2013 | 04:38 AM
  #61  
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You should go find the guy that sold you that thing (that we tried to talk you out of buying in your other thread....) and see if he will give you (some or all of) your money back.
Old May 6, 2013 | 05:40 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Chrisguilday
I don't see a gasket for the that part of the pipe. #8 says rubber, but I don't see anything else.


The gaskets are number 6, and yes a leak free exhaust system is important if you want it to run right.
Old May 6, 2013 | 09:51 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by VtrInMtl
You should go find the guy that sold you that thing (that we tried to talk you out of buying in your other thread....) and see if he will give you (some or all of) your money back.
I may not have gotten the best deal in the world, but at least I bought a bike that was relatively cheap and I'll also learn a thing or two.

I don't mind buying a bike that's say $1600 and putting $1000 into it and also learn a bit about it, rather then buying a bike that's $2600 that needs nothing and never learning anything.
Old May 6, 2013 | 09:55 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Chrisguilday
I don't mind buying a bike that's say $1600 and putting $1000 into it and also learn a bit about it, rather then buying a bike that's $2600 that needs nothing and never learning anything.
Great way of approaching it. Also, you'll take some hits from some of the people on here as you do, but it's a tough love kind of thing and a great way to lean; much better than to have everything sugar coated.
Old May 6, 2013 | 10:11 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by 7moore7
Great way of approaching it. Also, you'll take some hits from some of the people on here as you do, but it's a tough love kind of thing and a great way to lean; much better than to have everything sugar coated.
It's alright, I'm young and stupid so I'm sure I'm not as easy to deal with as some one that is over 30.

Also, I didn't buy this bike with the intention of it being in perfect, or even good condition cosmetically. I probably won't get my moneys worth if I were to put a bunch of money into it making it look new. I just wanted a bike that I could ride around and have fun / get to and from work. I paid $1600, and I think after a few hundred more, it will be more then good enough to ride.

Last edited by Chrisguilday; May 6, 2013 at 10:15 AM.
Old May 6, 2013 | 10:18 AM
  #66  
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Best thing I did was buy a junker. But like you said, you won't get a financial return on investment, just a huge amount of knowledge. You can clicky on the picture in my signature to see my project if interested although some of the images got lost in it somehow??? I just realized this, haven't updated that one in awhile
Old May 6, 2013 | 11:04 AM
  #67  
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Wow! Just went through your whole build thread and I honestly haven't seen a bike I liked as much as yours in a long long time. Wish I had the money to do that with mine haha.

Maybe some day...
Old May 6, 2013 | 11:05 AM
  #68  
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The reality is that the one that "needs nothing" will need something in 2 minutes. So there is less disappointment this way.

"all bikes run on used parts" is a sign I saw at a junkyard once.

Just be methodical, bikes dont give you alot of second chances if you install something wrong like a car.

And forget about getting money back. Just move forward.
Old May 9, 2013 | 01:08 PM
  #69  
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Changing the oil / fluids and repairing the petcock as i type this! we will see what happens...
Old May 9, 2013 | 06:27 PM
  #70  
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Good news! Runs great. Rode it about 20 miles today. It is definitely running rich. Previous owner had idle set to 2300 rpm... Put that at 1500 rpm but I think it needs to be at like 1200-1300. The bike makes popping noises on deceleration and some times makes a little backfire when I start it up.

Also, I hear a clacking / ticking noise. Is this normal?
Old May 10, 2013 | 08:04 AM
  #71  
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The popping: is the PAIR system still hooked up? Check on that. If its long gone, then yeah, its running rich.

Like you said, put the idle down to 1200rpm.

They all click, if the tensioners are switched for manuals, just try and ignore the ticking.
Old May 10, 2013 | 10:36 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by matt365
The popping: is the PAIR system still hooked up? Check on that. If its long gone, then yeah, its running rich.

Like you said, put the idle down to 1200rpm.

They all click, if the tensioners are switched for manuals, just try and ignore the ticking.
Not sure if I have manual / new ccts. Any way to check?

I don't think the pair system is removed. This thing in the picture below would be gone if it was right?


Old May 10, 2013 | 11:08 AM
  #73  
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Yes that would be gone. Also, a little cam chain (or whatever) tick is fine or expected cold. Does it make the same sound when warm? They usually dont.
Old May 10, 2013 | 11:17 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Yes that would be gone. Also, a little cam chain (or whatever) tick is fine or expected cold. Does it make the same sound when warm? They usually dont.
Definitely louder when cold. Need to do some more testing to tell for sure though.
Old May 10, 2013 | 02:21 PM
  #75  
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Take a picture of the right side of your engine and post it please. Include both cylinders.

What's up with the gloves? Afraid to get your hands dirty?
Old May 10, 2013 | 07:19 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by RWhisen
Take a picture of the right side of your engine and post it please. Include both cylinders.

What's up with the gloves? Afraid to get your hands dirty?
Not my picture. Will post some pics tomorrow when theres light outside.
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