Battery removal?
Battery removal?
I feel stupid asking this (I did search), but I can't get the battery out of the tray. That little fuse box is in the way. Is there something I am missing? Should I remove the fuse box first?
you might want to confirm you have the correct battery for the bike. the battery that was in my bike when I bought it was a bear to remove. I recently bought a new one and it's much easier to get in and out.
When I had my '83 BMW R100RS (for 15 years), I'd set my 2/10 amp charger on 2 amps with a plug-in timer hooked up to it to charge 1/2 hour per day. You could do the same with a Battery Tender for whatever length of time you want. No worries.
But then I got my Superhawk, which was soooo much more fun to ride that it's never sat for more than a week without riding.
And that RS was a real bitch to change the battery. It had an almost car sized battery that sat completely recessed down in the frame. I went through about 4 or 5 batteries while I owned that bike.
But then I got my Superhawk, which was soooo much more fun to ride that it's never sat for more than a week without riding.
And that RS was a real bitch to change the battery. It had an almost car sized battery that sat completely recessed down in the frame. I went through about 4 or 5 batteries while I owned that bike.
Brotherhood of the RS airheads. Had to unbolt the subframe and flex the *** end down to extract the battery. Had a subscription to the diode board (rectifier) mailing service, failed so often I carried a spare under the seat and kept another in the what-not's box.
I wonder now if perhaps I should keep a spare R/R for the 'Shawk. . .but the battery comes straight out, no sweat. Push from the bottom.
I wonder now if perhaps I should keep a spare R/R for the 'Shawk. . .but the battery comes straight out, no sweat. Push from the bottom.
Brotherhood of the RS airheads. Had to unbolt the subframe and flex the *** end down to extract the battery. Had a subscription to the diode board (rectifier) mailing service, failed so often I carried a spare under the seat and kept another in the what-not's box.
I wonder now if perhaps I should keep a spare R/R for the 'Shawk. . .but the battery comes straight out, no sweat. Push from the bottom.
I wonder now if perhaps I should keep a spare R/R for the 'Shawk. . .but the battery comes straight out, no sweat. Push from the bottom.
Brotherhood of the RS airheads. Had to unbolt the subframe and flex the *** end down to extract the battery. Had a subscription to the diode board (rectifier) mailing service, failed so often I carried a spare under the seat and kept another in the what-not's box.
I wonder now if perhaps I should keep a spare R/R for the 'Shawk. . .but the battery comes straight out, no sweat. Push from the bottom.
I wonder now if perhaps I should keep a spare R/R for the 'Shawk. . .but the battery comes straight out, no sweat. Push from the bottom.
I'm no mechanic or electrician, but a tender is just that, a tender. Never heard such a thing as not leaving it plugged in/hooked up. Also, many tenders come with a connector that can be attached to the terminals to make connection a snap.
I pulled mine out of the bike because the tender instructions said not to use an extension cord to with the battery tender and I couldn't reach an outlet due to the tight fit in my garage.
I have a Battery Tender Jr and I just leave it on the battery. It knows when to shift from charging to "maitain".
I have a Battery Tender Jr and I just leave it on the battery. It knows when to shift from charging to "maitain".
The "Battery Tenders" have an electroninc brain so they won't overcharge. I have always left all of my batteries on all winter with no issues. They last 5 or more years. My '02 Shadow still has the original.
Many electrical devices that always stay plugged in say to not use an extension cord. Usually it is because they don't get unplugged and are left unattended, which is a potential risk of fire if you use a cheap cord with very light gauge wire. In addition, cheap, light gauge cords can reduce the amps to the tender, causing a problem. Use a cord that has at least 12/2 and you are gaurenteed to have at least as good if not better than in the wall. No issues.
Many electrical devices that always stay plugged in say to not use an extension cord. Usually it is because they don't get unplugged and are left unattended, which is a potential risk of fire if you use a cheap cord with very light gauge wire. In addition, cheap, light gauge cords can reduce the amps to the tender, causing a problem. Use a cord that has at least 12/2 and you are gaurenteed to have at least as good if not better than in the wall. No issues.
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