Mabsport

Well the Apes are in and up to now nothings broke. I went through the pain of removing the front cam cover.What a pain in the ****.I know many have not bothered with the front cover but for me its piece of mind. Anyway all went well until I cut the cable ties off the front cams ready to box everything up. First one snapped off no problem,second one snapped off and it fell into the engine. Every time I tried to get it out it went deeper.This then took nearly 40 minutes with wire to retrieve. I sat and thought should I leave it but what happens if ........



Anyway successful outcome and the Apes are done just need to listen and maybe adjust over the next few rides. Also I sat there for 30 mins not wanting to start the engine lol even though I had turned it over manually

Thanks for all the advice and help fellas

thusspakebenji

D'OH!

Engine fishing = no fun

lazn

Congrats always nice to have a "job well done" feeling. Plus now you don't have to worry about a cct failure anymore.

Mabsport

That is the best feeling after all that work

mdbuehler

Lol, did the same thing when I did mine Have to say its great peace of mind once it is all done and running again. Those posts of CCTs failing pop up often enough to where it was always in the back of my mind while riding.

Mabsport

Ok need to pick your brains. Done 70 miles and the bike runs well.No chain noise at all The minor niggle is when warm I can hear a very faint hum from the front pot area. This can be heard whilst riding but only at lower speeds.also it can be heard when parked up. It's not loud but I am awre of it. Before I go messing around I was just wondering if my front cct needs backing off slightly.

Any ideas fellas.

Tweety

Seems like a logical conclusion yes...

Mabsport

Ok today I was out on the bike and all was well and no real issues after backing the Apes off 1/4 turn. The problem I have now is when I start the bike I am getting the same hum, grinding rough sound for a split second the bike turns over then normal sound. I am thinking its the starter as it not there when the bike is running.I can get a similar sound if I turn the bike over manually with a socket at the generator bolt after half a turn under compression then it goes.Could this still be the Apes or am I worrying about nothing. Also many people suggest backing the CCT off when the bike is running till chain noise and then back in till it stops and lock off is this still the best way.

Apart from this the bike runs spot on .

Tweety

Well, the camchain changes tolerances with temperature, like all things in the engine...

The usual result is that if you set the CCT to be as quiet as possible when the engine is warm and running it will be a bit on the outside of tolerances when cold... Ie before the engine warms up to operating temp there will be a slight rattle or hum or however you describe it... And yes, thatäs the correct way of setting the CCT's... You want the tolerances to be correct when warm... If you are ever so slightly of and there is a small rattle at warm-up that's way better than being ever so slightly of when doing hundred miles per hour and metal meets metal...

I'm not saying I'm 100% sure that the noise you have is the CCT's, but it seems likely...

benny hedges

could be that you are hearing normal noises now as the apes have quitened down the rattles you're used to.
can't say ive noticed a hum on mine but then again i have laser cans on lol

but on my cbx, the r/r & gereator coils failed.
when i replaced the generator coil set, there is now a definate whirrr from the genny casing that wasnt there before.

i suggest you back off further until you are happy it's not the cct.
as said on vtr.org, i have approx 38mm of thread left sticking out between the locknut and the top nut of the ape cct.

Mabsport

No rattles at all just a squeak,screech for a split second when starting.I think like benny said may still be a little tight.Front one is a bitch to adjust when the bike is together. Just measured cct thread from top of lock nut to the top of the pinned bolt and its around 30mm.

Tweety

Trust me, going by someone else's numbers there is a good way of blowing up your engine... Adjust it by sound, not by the numbers...

I'm not saying his numbers are off, just that they might not be the same... Mine are different from cylinder to cylinder, so it's unlikely to be the same from engine to engine...

residentg

The old single cylinder Honda dirt bike engines (still used on some of the kids bikes) have CCTs that you adjust by sound. That is even how Honda specifies doing it in their service manuals. So this is a "sound" method for adjusting. JB

RK1

that's exactly right. I installed the front APE cct finger tight and backed off a quarter turn... the rattle was horrendous- much worse than with the (failing) stock auto cct. I fired up the bike and cranked the cct in until the rattle went away (one half to three quarters turn past "finger tight"). That was thousands of miles ago and everything is copesetic.

Mabsport

So now my bike has been ran and back together the front tensioner cannot be adjusted by fingers alone. Are you guys using tools to back it off until the rattle appears and then slowy turning to be rattle free.

Tweety

Well, unless you want to burn your self I wouldn't recommend using your hand alone...

Use a tool, but use small and areful movements...

Mabsport

Final Update

Backed the front tensioner off by around a full turn and locked it off .No more squeaks and just a little hint of chain noise. Both tensioners are finger tight(not fist tight) and it starts and sounds how it should.Thank you all once again its forums like this and VTR1000.org in the UK that help poor people like me through the struggles in life lol