04-17-11 Going to work on the carbs today.
04-17-2011, 09:57 AM
#1
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04-17-11 Going to work on the carbs today.
Hello,
So in addition to my other problems I have a serious clunk and some irregular running which I am pretty sure is due to un synced carbs. I have read around and am about to ride out to pick up parts to build a manometer. I am also going to attempt to get another headlight to replace the two day old one that blew its high beam.
I am having trouble finding the ports I am supposed to be connecting to. The manual does not have very clear pictures.
Does anybody have pictures of where these should be plugging into?
Does the tank need to be opened for this?
Any advice from folks who have done this in the past is appreciated and of course I will make a how to video for people in the future.
I am going to buy 1/8" tubing. Is that the proper diameter? Where the heck are the sync screws.
I would love to see a picture of where these are supposed to connect.
So in addition to my other problems I have a serious clunk and some irregular running which I am pretty sure is due to un synced carbs. I have read around and am about to ride out to pick up parts to build a manometer. I am also going to attempt to get another headlight to replace the two day old one that blew its high beam.
I am having trouble finding the ports I am supposed to be connecting to. The manual does not have very clear pictures.
Does anybody have pictures of where these should be plugging into?
Does the tank need to be opened for this?
Any advice from folks who have done this in the past is appreciated and of course I will make a how to video for people in the future.
I am going to buy 1/8" tubing. Is that the proper diameter? Where the heck are the sync screws.
I would love to see a picture of where these are supposed to connect.
04-17-2011, 10:02 AM
#2
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do you have a service manual? you really should have one.
Diameter of tubing doesnt matter much. I built a simple u shaped manometer with relatively thick tubing. As long as you get the same values from both carbs you're good.
Diameter of tubing doesnt matter much. I built a simple u shaped manometer with relatively thick tubing. As long as you get the same values from both carbs you're good.
04-17-2011, 10:05 AM
#3
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I have one and am looking at 3-12, but the pictures and drawings are so grainy that I cant tel what it what. Also they are not in context of where the parts are in the overview of the bike.
04-17-2011, 10:17 AM
#4
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Well rough running problems can be attributed to a lot of things.
SO what kind of rough running is it? Bad idle, stumbling, slow return to idle, overall powerband problems, misfires, backfires....?
You need to sync if your return to idle is slow, and for the SH, it should drop like a stone to 1200 or so pending on your idle set.
Also, what do your plugs look like? that will tell you a lot about the running conditions of the cylinders as well. I'm hoping you know to look for a nice, light and even tan coating on them with no problems (chips, cracks...) on the electrode.
SO what kind of rough running is it? Bad idle, stumbling, slow return to idle, overall powerband problems, misfires, backfires....?
You need to sync if your return to idle is slow, and for the SH, it should drop like a stone to 1200 or so pending on your idle set.
Also, what do your plugs look like? that will tell you a lot about the running conditions of the cylinders as well. I'm hoping you know to look for a nice, light and even tan coating on them with no problems (chips, cracks...) on the electrode.
04-17-2011, 10:31 AM
#5
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I took me about 5 hours to sync the carbs on my VTR using the method set out in the shop manual. The rear intake port is very difficult to get tubing on. You can manage it if you've got a really long haemostat or have fingers like a lemur. I don't do it according to the shop manual anymore.
There are two ways to make it much easier: cut the vacuum line to the petcock in an accessible place and use a T-connector for the tubing to your vacuum gauge and buy the fitting that's on the vacuum port for the rear cylinder and install it in the front cylinder. There are other hints and directions on this forum. Good luck.
There are two ways to make it much easier: cut the vacuum line to the petcock in an accessible place and use a T-connector for the tubing to your vacuum gauge and buy the fitting that's on the vacuum port for the rear cylinder and install it in the front cylinder. There are other hints and directions on this forum. Good luck.
04-17-2011, 11:06 AM
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aside from idling and very low speed issues I just don't see that out of synch carbs cause a lot of problems on these bikes. Hopefully you have read carefully and figured out that is the problem. More likely jetting if its been altered, airfilter if not stock or clogged pilot jets if sat for any period of time. If you are taking carbs off (highly recommended so you can at least make access (as described above) for the synch procedure anyway), be sure to figure out what is in there, how jetted and that pilots are clean.
04-17-2011, 11:07 AM
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THis is what I see when I look for the front port.
I have no idea where the rear one is. Also the locations of the screws I am supposed to adjust is a mystery to me.
That is what I am going to build my tool from. 20 ft 1/4 inch vinyl tubing 2 stroke motor oil a yard stick and duct tape.
every so often after letting up the throttle then reapplying there is a clunk from the font carb. Clunk is a bit dramatic. its like a sucking sound. It is fairly infrequent. I bought the bike 3rd hand and considering every other problem I have had. I would like to at least verify they are synced.
Last edited by geekonamotorcycle; 04-17-2011 at 11:13 AM.
04-17-2011, 11:18 AM
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still would say start by removing them. putting in the adapaters and hoses is easier and you'll see and understand direcctly where the ports are and which screws adjust what and how. You can also get a really really really really close start by bench synching the throttles. and you'll get jets cleaned and figure out what sizes are in there. trust me, you will save hours in the long run and understand the bike better.
04-17-2011, 11:35 AM
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What the crap is this the front port? Why does this guy have something on his and mine is just a bolt.. How am I supposed to connect this tube to the bolt that lives on mine?
I think I am missing an iomportant piece of information. Am I supposed to connect some type of nipple?
Last edited by geekonamotorcycle; 04-17-2011 at 11:38 AM.
04-17-2011, 11:45 AM
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Ok I think I understand. I need some type of nipple adaptor for the front port and the vaccuum line that connects to the petcock is the where the T joint needs to connect.... So The T joint should be at an auto store locally but what size nipple adapter thing-a-ma-bob should I be looking for? is it a honda OEM part? funny this guy says he got the T Joint at halfords which is one of my clients. We manage their SAP systems from here in the USA and our china offices.
In any case how do I connect a hose to that front port without that nipple?
In any case how do I connect a hose to that front port without that nipple?
04-17-2011, 11:58 AM
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Ok I think I understand. I need some type of nipple adaptor for the front port and the vaccuum line that connects to the petcock is the where the T joint needs to connect.... So The T joint should be at an auto store locally but what size nipple adapter thing-a-ma-bob should I be looking for? is it a honda OEM part? funny this guy says he got the T Joint at halfords which is one of my clients. We manage their SAP systems from here in the USA and our china offices.
In any case how do I connect a hose to that front port without that nipple?
In any case how do I connect a hose to that front port without that nipple?
It was told to you 1.5 hrs ago.
04-17-2011, 12:04 PM
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Honda, ATV Parts, Scooter Parts, Motorcycle Parts,CRF,CR,MX Parts, Goldwing parts
04-17-2011, 12:06 PM
#14
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Oh ok so there is no way to do this without the part then? bummer. I will have to order it. In the meantime I tested my voltage @ 6k RPM and it looks to be 16~v idling it is around 13v. I am scratching my head about why that 2 day old bulb had its high beam burn out just like bulb that was in before.
04-17-2011, 12:09 PM
#15
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I'll make it even easier..... remove the cap head and install a #7 :
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04-17-2011, 12:09 PM
#16
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Ok I think I understand. I need some type of nipple adaptor for the front port and the vaccuum line that connects to the petcock is the where the T joint needs to connect.... So The T joint should be at an auto store locally but what size nipple adapter thing-a-ma-bob should I be looking for? is it a honda OEM part? funny this guy says he got the T Joint at halfords which is one of my clients. We manage their SAP systems from here in the USA and our china offices.
In any case how do I connect a hose to that front port without that nipple?
In any case how do I connect a hose to that front port without that nipple?
But yeah, you can also get a non-Honda item, but in your neck of the woods they are partial to non-metric items, and the bike is all metric... Not a good match if you ask me... Me on the other hand, I could just buy a standard off the shelf item if I'd like too...
04-17-2011, 12:11 PM
#17
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Tweety, I am jealous. The local auto shops just might have something though. What metric size should I be looking for?
Ooo nvm looks like a 6mm
Ooo nvm looks like a 6mm
Last edited by geekonamotorcycle; 04-17-2011 at 12:22 PM.
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