Sprocket upgrades
-1 in front and +2 in the rear is common.. and what I use. My top end is limited to 148 indicated and real road speed (thank you speedo healer) but I enjoy the lower gearing used every ride more than concerned for a few MPH lost in top end I almost never use.
Others have used just a -1 in front because it's a cheaper swap and they felt it was "enough" for them.
Make sure you choose a quality brand sprocket.. I have been using Supersprox Stealth composite rears for about 9 years now on dirt, Supermoto and street bikes.
They have a steel chain ring mated to a lighter weight aluminum center. But last like a good steel sprocket
Others have used just a -1 in front because it's a cheaper swap and they felt it was "enough" for them.
Make sure you choose a quality brand sprocket.. I have been using Supersprox Stealth composite rears for about 9 years now on dirt, Supermoto and street bikes.
They have a steel chain ring mated to a lighter weight aluminum center. But last like a good steel sprocket
Last edited by E.Marquez; Jun 26, 2015 at 06:51 AM.
The above post is backwards: -1 front/+2 rear is typical for quicker acceleration.
I use JT steel sprockets because they are of good quality, and are inexpensive. You can get them anywhere.
On the front I used a Renthal because i wanted it to have holes in it... Purely cosmetic.
James
I use JT steel sprockets because they are of good quality, and are inexpensive. You can get them anywhere.
On the front I used a Renthal because i wanted it to have holes in it... Purely cosmetic.
James
The above post is backwards: -1 front/+2 rear is typical for quicker acceleration.
I use JT steel sprockets because they are of good quality, and are inexpensive. You can get them anywhere.
On the front I used a Renthal because i wanted it to have holes in it... Purely cosmetic.
James
I use JT steel sprockets because they are of good quality, and are inexpensive. You can get them anywhere.
On the front I used a Renthal because i wanted it to have holes in it... Purely cosmetic.
James
)Sorry for the fat finger response BC (before coffee)
I also use a Renthal front, but not for the "lightening" holes. They have GREAT tolerances on the shaft splines.. One of the best I have found. They always seem to fit better than other brands I have tried, to include many of the common brands names you will see posted in this very thread.
My .02... I've been around the block with trying -1f and + in the rear. Settled on +2 on the rear only which is a 43 tooth (16t front). It's a subtle change which throws off the speedo about 8mph on average and the results are perfect for me. I have a 15t (-1) front I will probably never reuse if interested. It has very low miles and is a JT.
Well you can go -1 in the front or +2 in the rear but anymore than that and you can just downshift one gear in the trans and have the same ratios as stock, so it has never made any sense to go that low to me.
Also when you start messing with gearing, you also change the wheel base of the bike which means you will also need to go through your suspension settings.
I have tried the alternate gearing and have gone back to stock as it works the best all around IMHO.
Also when you start messing with gearing, you also change the wheel base of the bike which means you will also need to go through your suspension settings.
I have tried the alternate gearing and have gone back to stock as it works the best all around IMHO.
Also when you start messing with gearing, you also change the wheel base of the bike which means you will also need to go through your suspension settings.
I'd happily prove (again, as I have in the past) that most if not all street riders are unable to observe a difference in 5-25 mm wheelbase difference caused by adjusting the rear wheel fore / aft to adjust the chain slack.
10 repetition in a blind test, and I have yet to find a street rider that can correctly state where the rear axle was positioned, fore or aft in a 25mm range 8 of 10 times.. I've challenged and won this bet 7 times. Thats not scientific proof, nor is it covering all riders..Just a reasonable educated guess indicating most street riders will never notice a difference in wheel base change from just adjusting the chain or changing gearing and adjusting the chain while using the same OEM length chain.
Having never tested the idea and observation some will still claim they can tell.. .... Yup, heard that before too,,, pays your money, take the challenge... come be #8. Im sure some can tell.. lets see theres Marquez, Rossi, Code, Chandler, Roberts, and a few hundred thousand other talented racers.. but Johnny rider on the street is not likely to be one of them.
Last edited by E.Marquez; Jun 26, 2015 at 11:00 AM.
Well you can go -1 in the front or +2 in the rear but anymore than that and you can just downshift one gear in the trans and have the same ratios as stock
16/41 one gear lower is NOT the same as 15/43
http://www.gearingcommander.com/
Second: How do you change to gear zero? (one gear lower than 1st)
We get it, some do not prefer the final drive ratios provided by going -1+2 ... but some do.... based on how and where they ride.. thats not wrong, any more than choosing stock gearing.. Its just what the rider prefers.
So long as FACTS and actual riding observations are being discussed and not pulled from the behind guess are being used to make a adult educated decision..there is no wrong gearing..just what works for you.
Last edited by E.Marquez; Jun 26, 2015 at 01:45 PM.
So I guess I just pull things from out of my *** and guess just to see my post count go up....... ok
Though I guess my attitude would have to be, why even have a forum.... there is no wrong anything, just what works for you.......
sorry my bad.... 
I'll add something usefull lol
where do you live and what do you use your SH for?
personally I've tried 16/41, 15/43 and 15/42. I like the latter because most of my riding is tight corners, rural roads and city driving. Very fast off the line but doesnt sacrifice too much top speed...
I'll add something usefull lol
where do you live and what do you use your SH for?
personally I've tried 16/41, 15/43 and 15/42. I like the latter because most of my riding is tight corners, rural roads and city driving. Very fast off the line but doesnt sacrifice too much top speed...
All I will say to this is really....... What a fine place where even the Mods go straight for the personal attacks.
So I guess I just pull things from out of my *** and guess just to see my post count go up....... ok
Though I guess my attitude would have to be, why even have a forum.... there is no wrong anything, just what works for you.......
So I guess I just pull things from out of my *** and guess just to see my post count go up....... ok
Though I guess my attitude would have to be, why even have a forum.... there is no wrong anything, just what works for you.......
It is not a personal attack when someone suggest what you posted is factually wrong?
Its not an opinion, it's math. This discussion is just tech you are taking personally...I assume because you were pointed out as being worng.
8541Hawk posted
Well you can go -1 in the front or +2 in the rear but anymore than that and you can just downshift one gear in the trans and have the same ratios as stock, so it has never made any sense to go that low to me.
Also when you start messing with gearing, you also change the wheel base of the bike which means you will also need to go through your suspension settings.
I have tried the alternate gearing and have gone back to stock as it works the best all around IMHO.
Also when you start messing with gearing, you also change the wheel base of the bike which means you will also need to go through your suspension settings.
I have tried the alternate gearing and have gone back to stock as it works the best all around IMHO.
I stated
16/41 one gear lower is NOT the same as 15/43
http://www.gearingcommander.com/
Second: How do you change to gear zero? (one gear lower than 1st)
We get it, some do not prefer the final drive ratios provided by going -1+2 ... but some do.... based on how and where they ride.. thats not wrong, any more than choosing stock gearing.. Its just what the rider prefers.
So long as FACTS and actual riding observations are being discussed and not pulled from the behind guess are being used to make a adult educated decision..there is no wrong gearing..just what works for you.
http://www.gearingcommander.com/
Second: How do you change to gear zero? (one gear lower than 1st)
We get it, some do not prefer the final drive ratios provided by going -1+2 ... but some do.... based on how and where they ride.. thats not wrong, any more than choosing stock gearing.. Its just what the rider prefers.
So long as FACTS and actual riding observations are being discussed and not pulled from the behind guess are being used to make a adult educated decision..there is no wrong gearing..just what works for you.
Changing the gearing only has effect on the wheel base, if you choose to be lazy and not adjust the chain length to put the rear axle back in the range you want (had)....
I'd happily prove (again, as I have in the past) that most if not all street riders are unable to observe a difference in 5-25 mm wheelbase difference caused by adjusting the rear wheel fore / aft to adjust the chain slack.
10 repetition in a blind test, and I have yet to find a street rider that can correctly state where the rear axle was positioned, fore or aft in a 25mm range 8 of 10 times.. I've challenged and won this bet 7 times. Thats not scientific proof, nor is it covering all riders..Just a reasonable educated guess indicating most street riders will never notice a difference in wheel base change from just adjusting the chain or changing gearing and adjusting the chain while using the same OEM length chain.
Having never tested the idea and observation some will still claim they can tell.. .... Yup, heard that before too,,, pays your money, take the challenge... come be #8. Im sure some can tell.. lets see theres Marquez, Rossi, Code, Chandler, Roberts, and a few hundred thousand other talented racers.. but Johnny rider on the street is not likely to be one of them.
I'd happily prove (again, as I have in the past) that most if not all street riders are unable to observe a difference in 5-25 mm wheelbase difference caused by adjusting the rear wheel fore / aft to adjust the chain slack.
10 repetition in a blind test, and I have yet to find a street rider that can correctly state where the rear axle was positioned, fore or aft in a 25mm range 8 of 10 times.. I've challenged and won this bet 7 times. Thats not scientific proof, nor is it covering all riders..Just a reasonable educated guess indicating most street riders will never notice a difference in wheel base change from just adjusting the chain or changing gearing and adjusting the chain while using the same OEM length chain.
Having never tested the idea and observation some will still claim they can tell.. .... Yup, heard that before too,,, pays your money, take the challenge... come be #8. Im sure some can tell.. lets see theres Marquez, Rossi, Code, Chandler, Roberts, and a few hundred thousand other talented racers.. but Johnny rider on the street is not likely to be one of them.
Thats not a personal attack, just discussion you take personally.
Last edited by E.Marquez; Jul 8, 2015 at 06:01 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
duran
Technical Discussion
16
Aug 27, 2007 07:57 AM
vtromey
Classifieds
2
Apr 5, 2007 04:09 PM
skunkwerks
Classifieds
13
Jan 2, 2007 05:13 PM




